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Changing the Brake Pad on an EK-10 Estate Keeper

ek-10 bolens estate keeper brake pad brakes

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#1 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2016 - 10:09 PM

I was attempting to change the brake pad on my Bolens EK-10 Estate Keeper today as I bought a new pad for it a while ago and decided it was time to try to change it so I can actually stop my EK-10 when I step on the clutch/brake pedal rather than having to wait for the tractor to slow down and stop rolling on its own, which sometimes can take a scary amount of time to happen when you want it to stop moving right away, lol...

 

In any event, I spent at least a couple of hours, if not more, screwing around with the tractor this afternoon sweating my ass off in the garage before I finally gave up on it for the day and figured I'd ask for some help on here before I try to continue.  I mean, at first glance it seems like it shouldn't be all that hard to remove the brake shoe assembly from the control arm that pivots to actuate the brake pad, as it looks to be just held on with a short roll pin.  The biggest pain in working on this tractor though is just the lack of space to access anything back there as everything is built so tight on these tractors.  It is also hard to try to position the control arm in the perfect spot to try to remove the pin as if the brake pedal is let off all the way, the back side of the brake shoe assembly is blocked by the PTO pulley.  But, if you depress the brake pedal down too far, then the brake shoe assembly starts to get blocked on the front side by the transaxle input shaft pulley (which the brake shoe actually contacts to stop it from spinning).  Then, even if you can get the control arm in just the right position to try to drive out the roll pin that holds the brake shoe onto the control arm, it is next to impossible to even get a good angle on it with a punch and a hammer to try to drive it out.  I tried hitting it for quite some time and it refused to budge even a millimeter.  I also tried to see if I could possibly just slip the brake shoe over the roll pin and pry it off from the control arm with a pry bar and a big flathead screw driver, but that wouldn't work either without severely damaging the whole brake shoe assembly.

 

So, I am still at square one with this stupid thing and I can't figure out how to get this thing apart so I can attempt to replace the brake shoe lining on this tractor.  Do I have to actually completely disassemble the brake control arm assembly from the tractor and put it on a bench (or in a vice) to drive out the roll pin to replace the brake shoe on this tractor?  This seems like a major pain in the ass job and no wonder why the brake shoes on these tractors are always so worn down to nothing as no one bothers to replace them because it is such a pain to do so.  So much for this being an easy job you can knock out in an afternoon.

 

Has anyone else even attempted to do this to their Estate Keeper before?  Any tips or shortcuts you can share or is there really no easier or shorter way of doing this without disassembling half of the back end of the tractor to remove the whole assembly from the tractor to work on it?  Any help in figuring out how to replace the brake shoe on this tractor would be greatly appreciated!

 

Oh, and while I am thinking of it too, assuming if I can even get the brake shoe off of the tractor, then how am I even supposed to replace the lining on it?  When I ordered the brake pad for the tractor, I was expecting to get the whole brake shoe assembly (Part Number 1716667 in the Parts Manual) that I could just pop on there and go.  OH NO, THOUGH!  Instead, all I got was the brake lining itself!  So, how am I supposed to replace just the lining on the brake shoe?  I'm assuming it is a bonded lining and is just glued on or something, but how do I get the old one off in one piece and what kind of glue (or epoxy maybe) do I need to attach the new lining onto the old brake shoe then?  This is definitely turning into a much larger project than I anticipated and will likely turn into a week-long project to complete.


Edited by MailmAn, September 11, 2016 - 10:20 PM.


#2 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2016 - 07:43 AM

I have replaced 3 so far and while it is not the most fun job in the world it can be done Its been a couple years since I did it but I remember having the depress the clutch petal to almost the "Stopped " position and then driving the pin out through the spoke of the aluminum pulley. I believe I also removed the drive belt idler sheave for easier access as well.

The pads can be put on your old metal shoe assembly as long it is clean and oil free with super glue, been doing it for years. I did tell you you were buying just the pads when you ordered......


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#3 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2016 - 09:21 AM

I have replaced 3 so far and while it is not the most fun job in the world it can be done Its been a couple years since I did it but I remember having the depress the clutch petal to almost the "Stopped " position and then driving the pin out through the spoke of the aluminum pulley. I believe I also removed the drive belt idler sheave for easier access as well.

The pads can be put on your old metal shoe assembly as long it is clean and oil free with super glue, been doing it for years. I did tell you you were buying just the pads when you ordered......

 

Thanks, Doc.  Yeah, I must have just assumed that I would have received the whole brake shoe assembly itself and not just the brake lining material.  I just wasn't expecting that.  It's not a huge deal really, but I'm also afraid to try to chisel off the old lining from the brake shoe and then try to glue on the new lining only to have it fall off or something while I'm using it.  I'm assuming you can't get the whole brake shoe assembly for these any more?

 

In any event, so when you changed these before, you didn't have to disassemble everything to remove the brake control arm to drive out that roll pin?  I tried depressing the clutch/brake pedal all the way and holding it down with a big C-clamp, but it looked like the aluminium input shaft pulley was going to block it so I couldn't access it at all.  I'll have to see if it lines up in-between the spokes enough to try to get access to it.  Do you remember if you tried to drive it out from the back of the tractor or the front?  I'm still thinking that I may need to disassemble some of the tractor to get access to make the job easier.  Depending on which side I try to hammer out the roll pin from, I'm thinking I may need to either remove the rear engine cover completely as well as the battery to get more room to work back there and/or remove the coil and muffler from the engine to try to get better access from the other side.  No matter what it seems there is really no good way to try to get at the stupid thing to replace it!

 

If I really start running into problems with it, I may have to start taking some pictures or video of it to share on here to get some more pointers.  Part of it too might be if the clutch/brake pedal is out of adjustment since the old brake lining is worn down so far, so I may have to play around with that some to get access to the brake shoe.  I have already removed the drive belts from the tractor to help get better access (which even removing the belts is a hell of a chore on this tractor...)



#4 BRIAN EK7&10 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2016 - 05:52 PM

does the brake pad on the tractor now have rivets or is it bonded on? if it is just bonded on some heat will most likely break the bond. then clean the surface of the shoe and the lining apply some jb weld on the shoe align the lining with it and then press the clutch pedal all the way down and clamp it for 24 hours and it should be good to go. if it is riveted on it is a lot harder to remove the lining from the shoe but the new lining can still be applied the same way.
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