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Toro WH 266H Stalls


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#16 Berry OFFLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2011 - 04:22 PM

OK one more question and I will leave you guys alone for awhile. How much Gumout should I use?

#17 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2011 - 04:49 PM

I usually "Season to taste", but I believe the can said 2 oz per gal. I always go a little heavy on stuff like this.

And ask away!

#18 Berry OFFLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2011 - 04:54 PM

I usually "Season to taste", but I believe the can said 2 oz per gal. I always go a little heavy on stuff like this.

And ask away!

Thanks for all your help & suggestions, and all the other GT folks on this site. I will keep you updated but only if you care!

#19 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2011 - 06:38 PM

I will keep you updated but only if you care!


We do care, and appreciate updates. Some never update us on outcomes. So please do let us know!

#20 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2011 - 08:21 PM

Please let us know what happens, it's always good to find out what works for people. If this doesn't work, a teardown, rebuild, and new gaskets are in order... But you aren't out anything by trying this first.

#21 Berry OFFLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2011 - 07:35 AM

Please let us know what happens, it's always good to find out what works for people. If this doesn't work, a teardown, rebuild, and new gaskets are in order... But you aren't out anything by trying this first.

Just wanted to let you guys know the status of my 266H and the choke/stall problem. I poured in some Techron fuel treatment, ran it at various times of the day along with the suggestion of blocking the air intake. If I get the choke and the rpm's just right she runs like nothing is wrong. The second I start to pull back on the choke she wants to die. I am going to continue to run more treated gas through the system today and see what happens. I am anticipating having to rebuild the carb which was suggested and wanted to know where you folks get your parts? I also wanted to know if there is anything I need to be aware of or take notice of when I pull the carb and rebuild it. Thanks for the help and suggestions.

#22 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2011 - 12:08 PM

As for parts, anywhere that has them.
My only suggestion is to take your time, clean it right, and make sure to use locktite on the butterfly screws if you take them out.

#23 Berry OFFLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2011 - 07:28 PM

As for parts, anywhere that has them.
My only suggestion is to take your time, clean it right, and make sure to use locktite on the butterfly screws if you take them out.

Ok I thought I would let you know what I did and the results of my efforts. I took the carb off and cleaned it as suggested. Put it all back together and fired it up and it basically did the same thing. Would start with the choke in the right spot along with the throttle. Shut her down and started her up later and the same thing...no start. I noticed 3 fuses right below the 3 relays that are attached to the frame. Pulled them out one at a time and noticed some pretty bad corrosion plus one of the fuses had melted and another basically crumbled in my hand when I tried to take it out. So I replaced them all, set the choke and throttle like I normally do and it fired up like nothing was wrong. I even ran it over to my neighbors to tell them the good news. Ran it back home and decided to pull the fuses and clean all the contacts. For what it's worth I also cleaned up most if not all the electrical connections. Turned the key and I think the whole neighborhood heard me scream out in frustration....back to the old problem all over again. So if I were a betting man and maybe I should be I would guess there is some sort of electrical problem....any guesses? I have called my local shop to pick her up because I have done all that I think I can do with the knowledge I have to try and solve this problem.:wallbanging:

#24 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2011 - 09:00 PM

Sorry to hear about the frustration! Electrical "gremlins" can be hard to track down. You've obviously stumbled upon the problem twice already though...once when you got it running and once again when it stopped. It could be a wire that's broken inside the insulation and you'd not know without checking every one with an ohm meter while shaking the wire around. Sorry that we were unable to help you pinpoint the problem this time. All the same, keep us posted on what the shop finds when they get it done.

#25 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2011 - 09:13 PM

Must be the "anti backfire solenoid". I am betting it does have one. On the bottom of the fuel bowl, is there a solenoid? If so, it is sticking & not retracting far enough & cutting off the fuel partially. When I have problems with them, I simply grind the tip off it & screw it back in. The things are pricey, and with them disabled, all you have to do is allow them to idle 30 seconds or so before you shut it down.
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#26 Berry OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2011 - 06:21 AM

Must be the "anti backfire solenoid". I am betting it does have one. On the bottom of the fuel bowl, is there a solenoid? If so, it is sticking & not retracting far enough & cutting off the fuel partially. When I have problems with them, I simply grind the tip off it & screw it back in. The things are pricey, and with them disabled, all you have to do is allow them to idle 30 seconds or so before you shut it down.

I looked up what your referring to and they are calling it the fuel shut-off valve I believe. I remember taking it apart and cleaning it and also noticed what looked like a small metal rod that sticks up into the fuel bowl. How much are you talking about taking off or grinding down? Thanks again guys for the help!
The link is to the part that I beleive you are referring to-look at #40. They want about $130.00 for the complete part!
http://www.partstree...-7_388037-00028

Edited by Berry, June 01, 2011 - 06:27 AM.
Added link


#27 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2011 - 09:12 AM

You can grind the tip all the way down, or just take side cutters & bite it off as far down as you can & it will be enough. If you had a threaded plug to fit, you could simply plug it off, not altering the solenoid at all. The solenoid is not critical at all to running, as all it is for is to close off all fuel on shutdown to prevent after-fire (backfire/dieseling). When these solenoids crap out, they either prevent running at all, or partially block fuel flow.

#28 Berry OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2011 - 10:59 AM

You can grind the tip all the way down, or just take side cutters & bite it off as far down as you can & it will be enough. If you had a threaded plug to fit, you could simply plug it off, not altering the solenoid at all. The solenoid is not critical at all to running, as all it is for is to close off all fuel on shutdown to prevent after-fire (backfire/dieseling). When these solenoids crap out, they either prevent running at all, or partially block fuel flow.

Thanks olcowhand and others who have offered their help. Can that entire piece come out? That rod is attached to another piece that basically fits perfectly in the other part of the solenoid.

#29 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2011 - 11:03 AM

If the tip is removable, sure, just remove it. And unplug the solenoid after modifying it, just to prevent any possibility of it shorting out & causing further problems.

#30 Berry OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2011 - 11:37 AM

If you disconnect the solenoid the engine will still start? My electrical knowledge is pretty green so it's not making sense to me-sorry.




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