Posted September 14, 2016 - 06:49 PM
Posted September 14, 2016 - 07:34 PM
The points look they have too much gap for sure. the tape doesn't scare me, just make sure the wire isn't grounded out where it goes around the insulated point piece. You could ohm check the secondary side of the coil. You should get something in the 5-10K ohm range. You would have to remove the condenser wire to test the primary side of the coil. With the points open it should read around 1.4 ohms. If you get down around .7-.8 you will have problems. If you are pointing at the pin that holds the point spring, that is its only function.
Posted September 15, 2016 - 12:20 AM
Posted September 17, 2016 - 01:48 PM
Posted October 05, 2016 - 02:59 PM
Tom & Jerry used to chase each other around with one of those
- jtrojek said thank you
Posted October 10, 2016 - 03:39 PM
- Bruce Dorsi said thank you
Posted October 10, 2016 - 10:53 PM
The nut on top of the valve cage is wrong. Seems there should be a heavy seat washer in there. The parts breakdown should show it. You need something to spread the force across the cage instead of having the decomp bolt pressing right on the center of the cage. That bolt has to have enough force to make the cage seal but not so much that the yoke breaks. (common mistake, tight's tight and too tight's broke) I can't remember for sure but it seems there should be copper sealing rings on the top and bottom of the valve assy itself. If compression is bypassing the valve it will spit back through the carb. Seems most of these do spit a little. It doesn't take much to push the decomp pin down. Make sure that lever doesn't hold the pin down a little.
The exhaust valve should close just as the piston passes TDC. You can use a plastic carb clean snout or something similar to feel the piston through the plug hole. I use the valve adjustment to fine tune that. As long as you've got some gap and the valve closes right, you should be OK. The intake valve is operated by engine vacuum so exhaust pressure in the cylinder is more likely to keep the valve from opening right than to let pressure out the intake. Another thing I've run into with these engines is the the exhaust valve spring will get weak or loose as the valve sits deeper in the seat and it will let the valve float when the engine is running. Take a screwdriver and hold pressure down on the valve with it running and see if it makes a difference. A sloppy valve guide can also let exhaust smoke out.
The spring loaded bolts are a slipper clutch in case something gets caught in the reel. If you are going to use the mower, they should be on the stiff side. If it's just for show maybe a little looser would be safer. don't think I've ever seen a manual for the mower with any kind of a spec. Seems that they were wired to keep them from backing out. Do the bolt heads have holes drilled in them?