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1928 Moto-Mower


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#1 jtrojek OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2016 - 01:52 PM

I just picked up this Moto-Mower. I assume it's a 1928 mower, based on the engine serial number. It was from an estate so it's currently not running, but I have high hopes that I can get it running as it seems in decent shape and the oil is even clean. The steering clutches controlled by twisting the handle grips are neat. I have a few questions. First, it's a Briggs PB engine with no spark. Where are the points on this model? Behind the flywheel? Second, does anyone know the correct way the throttle cable and linkages are supposed to go to the carb? I don't think this one is right as this setup doesn't allow the throttle to move on the carb. Third, and speaking of carbs, what kind of an air cleaner was on this machine? It needs an air cleaner, reproduction or otherwise. Also, does anyone have a spare top for the body of the carb? The machined replacement top piece may be functional but I'd like to make it right. That's it for now, but I'm sure I'll have more questions.

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#2 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2016 - 04:12 PM

That thing is cool as heck


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#3 Littledeere OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2016 - 05:18 PM

Nice piece there


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#4 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2016 - 05:20 PM

The points are behind the flywheel. There used to be someone making the repro air cleaners but I know he retired. They used to show up on ebay but a qyick look didn't turn one up. Good luck on the carb top. Maybe I should try and cast some.


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#5 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2016 - 05:47 PM

Don't mess with the throttle or linkage until you get the flywheel off and fix the no spark issue.Carb linkage will be gummed up.Not a big problem.Little PB Blaster on all the linkages and it should be good to go.

 

Check the coil for short or open circuit before ya get to far into it.Those coils are very expensive but can be rewound if you know what your doing. 

 

http://www.michigans...motomower-1.jpg

 

http://www.michigans.../Model - PB.pdf


Edited by EricFromPa, September 10, 2016 - 06:09 PM.

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#6 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2016 - 06:13 PM

Really really good site for manuals for old small engines.Lots of hard to find stuff.

 

http://www.michigans...eresources.com/


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#7 HANKG OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2016 - 07:27 PM

Very nice find.


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#8 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2016 - 10:36 PM

That thing is cool as heck

My words exactly when I saw the pics. Great find!!!

Eric

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#9 jtrojek OFFLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2016 - 12:26 PM

Alright, so I started playing with it today and have further questions. First, the throttle linkage. I tried to find pictures of other PB engines to see how the throttle linkages/cable are set up. That wasn't as easy as I figured it would be so it was less helpful than I hoped. I have a number of questions, but here is my first one: is the rocker arm that connects the throttle control cable to the linkage going to the carb in the right place? It looked to me on a few other machines like the rocker arm is mounted one bolt position to the right (clockwise). Both where it is currently mounted and the bolt hole to its right both have replacement screws. I'm wondering if someone had it apart and put it together wrong. I suspect that changing that part's position may impact the butterfly valve and how far it opens in its current setup. In it's current setup, and butterfly valve maybe opens a quarter or not third of the way at best. From what I read in the manual, that doesn't seem right. Either the linkage is wrong, or possibly the rocker arm is in the wrong place. Does anyone have any insight? Depending on the answer to that question, then I may have a number of follow up questions, but it seemed like this was the best place to start. Second, before I go and do something ill-advised, and because I've never worked on a Briggs of this style before, what's the best way to get the flywheel off? I don't want to break anything. I need to check the points. I also realize that the rope pulley is not original. I'll look f another one of those. The rope pulley was bolted in where you can see those two holes. Third, what is this curious past piece hanging from the underside of the bracket that holds the fuel tank? Currently it does nothing but hang there. Is it supposed to go over the decompression pin on the top of the engine to then use to push down the pin to turn off the engine? That makes more sense to me than it's current purpose. If that's not functional, it explains why the previous owner had mounted a door stop to bend over to ground out the spark plug. I'll stop with the questions for now, but I will have more later, as well as follow up questions. Thanks for all your help so far!

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#10 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2016 - 02:18 PM

Linkage goes on the other bolt on the top of the cam cover.The bolt that it's on should be for the throttle cable retainer.

 

 

 

Briggs PB Engine PTO.jpg Briggs PB Engine Rear View.jpg

 

4328042_orig.jpg


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#11 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2016 - 02:32 PM

Couple more pics.

 

briggs pb2 - pic.jpg

 

Briggs PB - 7 .jpg

 

briggs%20pb2%20-%20pic.jpg


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#12 jtrojek OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2016 - 02:54 AM

Thanks very much.  That may explain a bunch, including why the linkage seemed set up wrong, not allowing the butterfly valve in the carb to open up any more than a quarter of the way, maybe a bit more.  We'll see how moving that rocker piece affects the movement of the throttle link.  It also looks like I wasn't too wrong thinking that little hanging cast bracket was in the wrong place too, just hanging there instead of being over the compression release pin.  

 

Now I just have to figure out the flywheel, but I'm sure I'll have other questions as well.

 

Thanks again!



#13 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2016 - 03:30 AM

Hope your coil is good.Found a place that will rewind those old coils but they want $125.Still reasonable though.Should last another 80-90 years lol.

http://www.oldcroak....wound-exchange/


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#14 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2016 - 07:10 AM

 Use a steering wheel puller in the 2 holes to pull the flywheel off. I'd check that flywheel real close. The bolted on center piece isn't normal. I've never seen the decompression lever on one before and not sure how they work. Can you get a better pic of how it fastens to the tank bracket? Originally these had a starting crank that fit in the piece out over the wheel. You held the decomp pin down and got it spinning good then let it go. I'll try to get a pic of the crank.


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#15 jtrojek OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2016 - 07:25 AM

 Use a steering wheel puller in the 2 holes to pull the flywheel off. I'd check that flywheel real close. The bolted on center piece isn't normal. I've never seen the decompression lever on one before and not sure how they work. Can you get a better pic of how it fastens to the tank bracket? Originally these had a starting crank that fit in the piece out over the wheel. You held the decomp pin down and got it spinning good then let it go. I'll try to get a pic of the crank.

I wondered about that bolted on bit.  When looking at it it looked like that piece prevents the flywheel nut from tightening all the way.  It's currently only partially threaded on there and I wondered if that piece was not letting it seat where it normally would.  I wondered if maybe that centre piece was put on there to accommodate that different rope start pulley.  I'll get the flywheel nut off and will probably remove that centre piece as well, but we'll see.  I will also get get better pictures of that cast bit and how it fastens on there when I get home from work.  I noticed that same bracket was on some pictures of some other Moto-Mowers, including a couple of the pictures EricFromPA posted above.  I'd like to learn more about that decompression pin as well.  I've never had an engine set up quite like that before.  I've had decompression valves on some of my Briggs ZZ engines, including my Empire rider, but it's not quite set up like this one.  The manual for this engine says that you can use that valve to stop the engine.  Never would have thought of doing that.  I also noticed that this carb doesn't have a choke.  I think the manual said to just hold your hand over the air intake to choke it, or something like that.  Anyway, I'll take more pictures of that little cast bracket when I get home.  This has been great so far.  I knew nothing about the nuances of these older Briggs engines before this as most of my stuff is from the 40s and 50s, so I'm learning a lot.






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