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Hydraulic Valve Stuck


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#1 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2016 - 07:00 AM

Been working on my White 1655.  Been spraying the hydraulic control valve shaft with PB Blaster liberally every day for the last 2 weeks, letting it soak while attending to other parts.  About to finish up the wiring and the next will be the valve.  Anyone have any experience with a stuck control valve?  Is the shaft stuck to the housing or do they get seized up inside?  Fixable or replace it?  Buried up underneath and have only seen it when I spray more Blaster on the shaft.  Linkage is free.  Have to lift the front clear up to get at it or put it up on the work table to get under it.



#2 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2016 - 07:35 AM

I had one that water had gotten inside and it all was damaged alittle. I used a brake cylinder hone and spun the shaft on my lathe with just emery cloth. With new O rings it worked but leaked. It is going to depend on how smooth you can get the surfaces that the Orings slide on. I later came across an entire replacement valve set and put that in to stop the leaks. BTW, In another post you said that you have CRP on 3 sides of you. What is CRP? I've got hardwood forest around me. Good Luck, Rick


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#3 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2016 - 08:06 AM

I had one that water had gotten inside and it all was damaged alittle. I used a brake cylinder hone and spun the shaft on my lathe with just emery cloth. With new O rings it worked but leaked. It is going to depend on how smooth you can get the surfaces that the Orings slide on. I later came across an entire replacement valve set and put that in to stop the leaks. BTW, In another post you said that you have CRP on 3 sides of you. What is CRP? I've got hardwood forest around me. Good Luck, Rick

CRP is Crop Reserve Production.  Farm ground that has been taken out of crop production and seeded down and left for 10 years.  Have to maintain a seed bed and keep it free of weeds and trees.  Govt. pays the owner an amount based on what the ground produced as a crop.  Keeps poor ground out of production and gives it a chance to establish a top soil.  Only enforceable part is to maintain a seed bed, rest is supposed to.  Cannot mow till after the nesting season, July 01.  New CRP on 3 side had weeds 10 ft tall and I complained about it.  Farm management guy from the city that has a piece of paper hanging on his wall that says he knows it all.  Probably went broke farming now is a farm manager.  Came in a mowed it all last week.  Sure going to do that new seeding good to have all that cover laying on top a foot thick.  Owner is 2 sisters, one out East and the other in Arizona.  The one in Ar has all the say as the other gal just wants the check every year.


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#4 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2016 - 08:37 AM

If you want good top soil around here, you've got to bring in truck loads of manure, which is getting hard to find since most of the farms have stopped farming. My land is very rocky so when we bought it 30 years ago it had only been used as pasture land(it does have a good spring). There is less than 4" of  natural loam in the woods. For lawn and garden areas I had to take the top 2' off, screan it and add manure to be able to grow anything worthwhile. I have found that in areas I disturbed(scraped the top off) there is a natural wild grass that takes over. IT only grows about 8" tall and looks okay. I only have to cut the trees that try to grow in it to keep it going.

 

Enjoy your privacy, I moved to my place for more than usual privacy for CT but, I still can see 3 neighbors. Good Luck, Rick


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#5 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2016 - 09:07 AM

I can see one neighbors building in the winter.  Can not see any of the others which are over 1.5 miles away.  Love it.


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#6 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2016 - 09:08 AM

3 neighbors are 3 too many in my book


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#7 Eric OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2016 - 10:20 AM

Just a note on your valve, depending on its build some control valves are built so as the input shaft can have rust on it and not affect the spool. In that case your corrosion may not have reached the mating surfaces and the valve can be easily rebuilt without leakage. Unfortunately more often the input is part of the spool and does not have a oring to stop moisture from getting to the mating surfaces other than the oring holding the fluid back, if that oring failed most likely it's a loss depending on the severity of the corrosion. Good luck hope it works out for you.
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#8 framesteer ONLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2016 - 02:56 PM

CRP --Money for nothin'    Maybe also "chicks for free"


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#9 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2016 - 05:59 PM

CRP --Money for nothin'    Maybe also "chicks for free"

About enough to pay the property tax and insurance on the ground with some left for maintenance.  Red cedars grow wild in this area.  None one year and the next a filed full.  Only good thing is once they are cut they are dead.



#10 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2016 - 06:04 PM

3 neighbors are 3 too many in my book

That depends on how well you get along with your neighbors.  The one that has the crop ground against me is great.  We help each other back and forth.  He gets some excess garden stuff and I can get a tractor, bush hog or about anything else I need any time I want it.  Free access to his ground including the timber  areas for my firewood.  Big cow calf operation with about 7K A. of ground.  Over 1K big bales of hay every year.  Grinds about 15 bale a week through the winter plus a big silage pile.  Good guy to have around.


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#11 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2016 - 01:03 PM

Back to the hydraulic control valve.  Removed the valve this morning.  I think it had been off before as they used round head full threaded 1/4" bolts to hold it in place.  Had to split the front nut but got a screwdriver on the back one.  Think I got lucky.  No sign of any water getting inside the body.  Spool was nice and clean as was the body.  Had clean fluid in it yet but came out when I moved the spool.  Only real rusty part was the end with the centering spring and plates.  Have it soaking in PB Blaster now.  There were two short 3 sided pin about 3/8" long, look a lot like a carb main needle, that fell out when the spool was removed.  Got them both but wonder where and which way they go?  Looking for a parts breakdown of they valve now.  Any Ideas ? ?   Valve Pins.JPG     Valve Spool.JPG


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#12 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2016 - 03:55 PM

I had one that water had gotten inside and it all was damaged alittle. I used a brake cylinder hone and spun the shaft on my lathe with just emery cloth. With new O rings it worked but leaked. It is going to depend on how smooth you can get the surfaces that the Orings slide on. I later came across an entire replacement valve set and put that in to stop the leaks. BTW, In another post you said that you have CRP on 3 sides of you. What is CRP? I've got hardwood forest around me. Good Luck, Rick

After I got this one apart I saw the "O" rings were in the body and not on the spool.  First one I seen like that.  I think I will leave the "O": rings in and just clean up the end of the spool good.  Noe that it has been out of the tractor once it won't be much to take it out again if I have to.  Won't be using the hydraulics anyway as the 3 point is not complete and no deck.


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#13 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted September 21, 2016 - 12:48 PM

Wasn't as lucky with the valve as I thought.  It don't leak to the outside any but only works one way.  Switched the two cylinder hoses around and it works the opposite.  That eliminated the lift cylinder being bad.  Have a replacement valve (used) on the way.  Hopefully that will take care of the problem.  Then I can get on with building a couple 3 point parts and have that in operation.  At least the hydro is working good and the engine is running OK.


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#14 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted September 21, 2016 - 07:54 PM

Did you ever figure out what those 3 sided pins are for ?




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