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Replacing LH Oil Seals & Transmission Questions/Advice


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#1 TGaffney OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2016 - 06:38 AM

I am working on a 1220 I purchased about 6 weeks ago.  Replacing LH oil seals which were leaking badly and top transmission gasket which was also leaking.  I did a search of the site and didn't come up with answers so thought I would post for input.  

 

Oil Seals & Assembly

 

1)   On the oil seals my assumption is that the inner seal (#1185643) should face in to keep transmission fluid in and the outer seal (#1185295) should face out to keep debris out?  That is how they appear to be set at this point - but thought I should verify. 

 

2)  Any tips or tricks on setting these?  I don't have any of the specified oil seal tools so was planning on pressing them in with a socket or some other similarly sized item.   

 

3)  I took a picture of the drive cone as it was removed.  Is this facing the correct direction?  Also should this be greased?  Looks like it was.

 

Transmission

 

1)  The gear on the worm shaft has some corrosion - is this unusual (I would think it is) and should I try to clean it up?  Sorry - not a great picture.

 

2)  What is the best way to clean up the residue in the transmission case?  Could I fill it with diesel then let it sit or would that be a giant mistake?

 

3)  Any other advice on servicing the transmission while I have access to it?

 

 

Drive Collar & Lock Pin

 

The drive collar is broken where the hitch pin was supposed to secure the lock pin.  It was held in place with a hose clamp.  I am wondering if the lock pin is correct for this tractor or if it is from a different model?  Also - how snug should this be in the drive collar.  It seems pretty loose.

 

 

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Drive Cone.jpg
  • Inner Oil Seal.jpg
  • Outer Oil Seal.jpg
  • Corroded Gear.jpg
  • Drive Collar.jpg
  • Lock Pin.jpg

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#2 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2016 - 07:04 AM

First the easy one, that pin in the locking hub is homemade, never seen one like it.

 

The seals get installed with the lip facing out (seal side with the open groove and spring in it faces in towards the oil supply)

 

This old thread should give you some good visuals, different seal numbers but same concept

 

http://gardentractor...seal#entry51595

 

 

There was a real good step by step process on how to do this written by member Bruce Dorsi but I cant seem to find it.

If no one else responds to this I'll try to have a better response later tonight , but dont have much time in the morning.


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#3 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2016 - 12:46 PM

I am working on a 1220 I purchased about 6 weeks ago.  Replacing LH oil seals which were leaking badly and top transmission gasket which was also leaking.  I did a search of the site and didn't come up with answers so thought I would post for input.  

 

Oil Seals & Assembly

 

1)   On the oil seals my assumption is that the inner seal (#1185643) should face in to keep transmission fluid in (correct)  and the outer seal (#1185295) should face out to keep debris out?  No.  ....The open side of the seal should always face the fluid.  That is how they appear to be set at this point - but thought I should verify. 

 

2)  Any tips or tricks on setting these?  I don't have any of the specified oil seal tools so was planning on pressing them in with a socket or some other similarly sized item.  Sockets, pipe nipples or fittings, etc, can be used to install the seals.  ....The object used should be just-slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the seal.  .....The seal must be started squarely and not cocked in its bore.

 

3)  I took a picture of the drive cone as it was removed.  Is this facing the correct direction? No.  ...The tapered end slide on first.  Also should this be greased?  A slight film of grease on the inside may help, but you don't need grease on the tapered portion.Looks like it was.

 

Transmission

 

1)  The gear on the worm shaft has some corrosion - is this unusual (I would think it is) and should I try to clean it up?  Sorry - not a great picture.

 

2)  What is the best way to clean up the residue in the transmission case?  Remove the bottom cover from the transaxle and clean out the glop that settled there. Could I fill it with diesel then let it sit or would that be a giant mistake?  You can, but I would then remove the bottom cover anyway.

 

3)  Any other advice on servicing the transmission while I have access to it?  It is worth buying new top and bottom gaskets.  .....I always used gasket sealer on both sides of the bottom gasket.  ...For the top gasket, I used sealer on one side and a light film of grease on the other side.  ...This makes it easier if you have to remove the top cover again (and usually the top gasket can be used again).

 

If applying gasket sealer to the top flange of the transaxle, do not cover the small bronze vent at the front corner of the flange.

 

Fill the transaxle with SAE 90w gear lube to the height of the fill plug at the rear of the trans.  .....SAE 80w-90w lube is OK, but you want a lube with a "GL-1" specification to prevent corroding the brass/bronze gear and bushings.

 

 

Drive Collar & Lock Pin

 

The drive collar is broken where the hitch pin was supposed to secure the lock pin. This can be repaired.  .....Check the Bolens forum for info on how others have done it. It was held in place with a hose clamp. 

 

I am wondering if the lock pin is correct for this tractor or if it is from a different model? Not the correct pin for any Bolens tube-frame!  Also - how snug should this be in the drive collar.  It seems pretty loose.  It should be a snug, but sliding fit when coated with a film of grease.  ....It should not "wobble" in the hub.

 

 

Here are some instructions which I wrote for someone else.  ....You have already completed some of the steps, so ignore what doesn't apply to your needs.

 

First you'll need to soak it down with cleaner/solvent/ penetrant to clean the grease off the parts.

Using a pair of pliers to grab the outside diameter of the bronze cone (that's the tapered cone that's keyed to the smaller steel sleeve), try to pull the bronze cone out first.  .....Being bronze, it doesn't rust or stick on the outside to the large hub.  .....Rust on the steel inner sleeve or key will keep the bronze cone from sliding off easily. 

Tapping the end of the cone and sleeve with a small flat-punch or blunt chisel, may help loosen things a bit.  ...Just be careful not to peen the sleeve, making it even bigger in diameter.

When everything is clean, look closely at the keyway on the steel sleeve to see if the steel sleeve is split at the coners of the keyway.  .....If they split, the sleeve may have expanded slightly.

You'll have to clean the axle shaft very well to enable the sleeve to slide off, after soaking it with penetrant.  ......You can try hitting the large hub on the back of the flange, but Be CAREFUL! because the hub is cast-iron and can brake easily.  ....Try to hit as closet to the smallest part of the backside of the hub as possible.  .....If you have an air-hammer with a blunt chisel, that should work nicely.


If you have a large puller, you can try that, but it will exert a lot of pressure on the flange, and may break the hub.  ...Not Good!

Other than that, I can't think of any tricks to make the job easier.

Once you get it apart, clean & polish all the pieces.  .......I would always make sure that the cone would slide freely on the sleeve before putting them back in the tractor.  .....Likewise, the sleeve should slide freely on the axle shaft (without the key installed).

De-burr the key & the keyway in the sleeve with a flat file.  ......On the large hub, de-burr the two tangs which go inside the differential, and also de-burr the sharp edge that enters the large seal.


If you install the small seal into the hub, before putting the hub back on the tractor, do not just push the hub onto the shaft.  .....Try "screwing" the hub on, so the seal doesn't get torn up on the threads.  .......If you put the small seal in after the hub is on the tractor, again, do not tear the seal on the threads.  ....You will need a tube or piece of pipe of the correct size to drive the seal squarely into its seat.

Then, you can install the sleeve, cone, & key, along with the nut, cotter pin, & spring-washers.


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#4 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2016 - 04:49 PM

Thanks Bruce!!!


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#5 TGaffney OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2016 - 06:58 PM

Thank you gentleman - you have saved me time and grief.  Hopefully setting the drive cone in the correct direction will help with the leak and bucking I was experiencing. 

 

Thanks also for the tips on greasing one side of the top seal - that may have been the cause of the current one failing.  It was leaking on the back side and when I removed the top cover the remaining gasket was okay on the other three sides but non-existent on the rear.  I don't have a new bottom seal so I will clean the case out as best I can with the bottom plate in place.   

 

Any advice on the corrosion on the worm shaft gear?



#6 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2016 - 07:58 PM

Thank you gentleman - you have saved me time and grief.  Hopefully setting the drive cone in the correct direction will help with the leak and bucking I was experiencing. 

It is not likely the cause of your leak or bucking.  ......The "bucking" most likely was caused by too much axle end play.  .....There are instructions in the Bolens Tube-Frame section of the manuals forum which describes how to make the adjustment.

 

Thanks also for the tips on greasing one side of the top seal - that may have been the cause of the current one failing.  It was leaking on the back side and when I removed the top cover the remaining gasket was okay on the other three sides but non-existent on the rear.  I don't have a new bottom seal so I will clean the case out as best I can with the bottom plate in place.   

I strongly recommend removing the bottom cover to clean things out.  ....If you don't want to buy a new gasket, you can cu your own from gasket material from most auto parts stores.

 

Any advice on the corrosion on the worm shaft gear?  You could try "scotchbrite" to remove loose corrosion.  .....I believe the rest will be removed when operating with enough lube in the transaxle.


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#7 TGaffney OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2016 - 08:30 PM

Thanks again Bruce.  I will take your advice and fabricate a bottom gasket and remove the bottom pan when cleaning.

 

Both castle nuts were pretty loose when I disassembled the tractor - so hopefully when I put everything back together and set the end play correctly that will cure it.



#8 TGaffney OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2016 - 01:35 PM

Got everything back together on Saturday and no leaks so far.  Also the end play adjustment seems to have helped with the bucking I was experiencing.  Thanks for the advice and guidance!


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