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G14 clutch install?


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#1 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2016 - 03:51 PM

Putting the clutch shaft back together for my G14.  Using the parts page for the order of parts. Haveing trouble understanding the last plate that screws onto the shafts last fine threads. How far does one tighten it? Mine seems to be going kinda hard and still has 1/2" before touching the clutch sheaves. Is it supposed to be all the way down and tight? Shaft seems to have the same 1/2" to go into the last plate too. I'm using a 1-1/8" wrench, but with only those two flats on it, kinda hard to keep it on. Makes me think should not be going on that hard. I oiled the threads a bit, helped. Also, the bearing on the release block had a center sticking out some, and can't see in picture which way that should go. I now have it pressed on towards the plate. Same on the outer bearing for the hanger, last part on, it has one side sticking out also. No mention in manual on direction. I was going to have it to front of tractor, or outside the box end, with nut up tight to it. This pack should be tight when stationary then?  Is there a setting for that?  I see the settings for the pedal movements, not anything on here about shaft.


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#2 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted August 31, 2016 - 06:24 PM

Thanks for the help...NOT!   Today, looked at shaft and end plate again.  Decided the threads looked a little ruff. SO, tapped the plate first, had that. Is an odd size 9/16-18 fine.  Had to go to store and get the die.  Tap went easy, cleaned them up OK, no so bad. Die on shaft started a little ruff, then got easier, hit another ruff area and finished OK. Put part together and was SMOOTH! and easy.  One part fixed.  Now assembled much better, went all the way down. Still can't find in my info just how far to go with this. SO, went all the way till threads stopped, then backed off a turn or so, as not to be binding. Left about right amount out on end of shaft for the big lock washer and nut. Put it in tractor, some what a pain. Got the brake plate hung, was PIA to get the mount springs to compress  and put in the cotters. I have tractor on my lift, but still need to lay under it for better sight and access. Can't do that easy on the lift. Now trying to put in the leverage assembly for the clutch release bearing. BIGGER PIA!  I might be rolling the thing off the lift just to be able to lay on floor to get that one. Had wife out holding things, trying to see and reach under to attach, but No go. Loose the parts many times, stuff don't stay where you want AND, darn parts being BLACK makes it hard to see underneath and now site not so good to get finer details.  I finally gave up and went in for night. Needed to take the break.  As I mentioned before, the whole assembly could have been put together on a bench, why didn't I do that??? Lessons learned. Did I mention I HATE Bolens?  :smilewink: :wallbanging:



#3 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2016 - 04:40 PM

MORE frustration! Finally got the actuator parts all back in. Held some stuff together with tape as I set up and located in frame. I was able to come in from top side for the pivot bolt. Was trying to adjust the pedal according to book. Using the nuts on the acturator rod off pedal, I had to go almost all the way in to get pedal up at good angle. Still seems too sloppy. I think I just have worn out pivot holes and such. Replace the one pin and helped some. The flat stock that wraps around the throw-out bearing, if called that?, has holes for pins off bearing. They were kinda ovaled, didn't fix, should I have? I was going to flip them so pin would ride on good side of hole, but forgot to do that. I can get the brake to set-up fine, but DON'T get any release on clutch part that I can tell. I'm assuming I should be able to reach under and turn the Sheaves when it releases, right? I don't get that. That very front hanger bearing for main shaft is type that is free floating/aligning and I think it is moving too much. Bearing is sloppy in the holders, moves out good 1/8 to 3/16" just guessing. That bearing has center that sticks out of one end and can't find info on if that needs to face certain way? I had it IN to clutch when first set-up, I later pulled it out and turned it around to face OUT towards front of tractor. I think I now have MORE play in the system, so guessing that is wrong. Brake adjust needed to be changed then too. I can get the brake to work when turning the shaft by hand and putting it on. Just not sure on any release of clutch yet. I took couple pix of that front bearing to see if I could show movement. Not a video, which would be better, see what you think, if can make out anything. Is that just a common bearing can get in farm store like I see or special deal from Bolen's guys? I think I want to start with that change first. I don't have actual shop manual, just adjustments in couple if books I have. I don't have a thing about how to assemble the clutch shaft and maybe there is something I needed to do with that? Main question is how far on the outer plate should have been screwed on the shaft. Mine is in all the way now, is that problem? First pix pointing to the extension on bearing.  The 2nd pix is when clutch is depressed and it moves back from holder, and 3rd is when is forward  in holder, think maybe when brake is on?

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Edited by glgrumpy, September 01, 2016 - 04:45 PM.


#4 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2016 - 05:35 PM

These are fairly simple units but if you have never done it before it can be an experience ;)

 

Page 76 shows the clutch

http://gardentractor...anual-552875-1/

 

Your bearing on the clutch plate looks to be in pretty far on the flange is that a new one you put in there?

I stock both bearings and flange if needed , that self aligning bearing should only move side to side to center itself and not move in and out like yours looks to be.

 

 

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#5 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2016 - 07:22 PM

Here are pictures of the clutch unit and driveshaft out of my 1050 which should be very similar.  I believe the front plate should be threaded on as far as the threads on the driveshaft will allow - the shoulder on the front plate should be a snug fit inside the self aligning bearing.  As stated there should not be any side or back and forth movement of the front clutch plate inside the bearing once the front nut is tightened and the two bolts that hold the two half flanges are tightened.  The last picture shows the two flats where I use a pair of large vise grips to hold the driveshaft while I tighten the front plate and the front nut.   Hope this helps 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Clutch aand Belts 1.jpg
  • Clutch and Belts 2.jpg
  • Driveshhaft Set In 1.jpg
  • Driveshhaft Set In 2.jpg
  • Driveshhaft Set In 3.jpg
  • Driveshhaft Set In 4.jpg
  • New Front Bearing.jpg
  • 1 Spot To Hold Driveshaft.jpg

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#6 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2016 - 11:38 PM

OK, guys, got this thing together and working now after all-day assembling, tearing back down, assembling, forgetting the belts and other things. The front bearing I bought stuck out both ways and that did not work. I hit the first plate on the clutch assembly and bound it up. SO, took the new mount plates which fit the old bearing tighter and used them back in and much better. THEN, when found no diff in operation, was looking under with light and seeing just what the heck was not working, SAW it!  That center bearing on the acutator square part was staying in place and the square was sliding off the outer part of bearing. Not all the way off, but moved when pushing pedal. Also the angle of the bent flat stock that goes around that part seemed too much, and was why could not get the pedal adjust to work out right. SO, tore it all out again and had to press and re-press that bearing out of that square holder and turn holder around. There is a lip on one side that bearing gets pushed with when pedal pushed. I saw NOTHING in the manual about which way to assemble that when first working on it, had it backwards. I posted about it in the members forum if you can see that. All back together, then pinched one drive belt up front near the front bearing and first plate, so off with front part again to get it out. Finally all bolted up, and pedal could be adjusted correctly and worked!  I could reach under and turn the sheaves when I pressed the pedal. Woopeee! Finally! Adjust brake, seems OK, think ready to go on that. Now next is my Bi>>>ing when I start on the OHV engine, a first for me! :smilewink:  Give me a Wheelhorse for simple to work on. YOU can have these Bolens.



#7 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 04, 2016 - 07:48 AM

  Give me a Wheelhorse for simple to work on. YOU can have these Bolens.

 

Glad you got if figured out

 

Hey, dont knock on the poor Bolens because you didnt know what you were doing :poke:



#8 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted September 04, 2016 - 10:44 AM

Didn't know, AND....., still Don't! :reading_the_manual:






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