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Kohler KT17 Starter Bendix


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#1 Billy M OFFLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2016 - 09:30 AM

So...I went to start my Ariens GT17 and it half fired and kicked back before the starter bendix fully disengaged.  Now the starter spins, bendix engages, but doesn't turn the engine...plus the burning rubber smoke/smell.  The gear has separated itself from the rubber isolator/bushing.  I've had this happen before on a K series.  It's just a much easier fix on a K series. 

 

My question...Has anyone else had this happen?  I know the "kick back" caused this, but would it happen on a new bendix, or would a new one be able to take the hit?  I would hate to have this happen again, since I have to pull the engine to replace the starter. The worse part is...I just had the engine loose a week ago to remove the drive shaft to replace the input shaft seal on the Sundstrand hydro!  =^/

 

Billy



#2 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2016 - 11:19 AM

I would say that the old bendix was dry rotted and the new one should hold up to kick backs for a few years.


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#3 stiemmy ONLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2016 - 11:23 AM

Sorry for your misfortune, especially just having the engine loose before.

I personally have never had this happen on a Kohler, so I can't say for sure, but, one would think this would not be good for it.

The starter clutch is designed to prevent over speed on the starter itself in the event a start relay sticks closed, or the operator doesn't let go of the ignition key fast enough after the engine has started, and so forth.

I did have a Briggs kick back on me once while I was starting it, and it busted the bendix on it, so with that in mind, I wouldn't think kickback on any starter would be good for it!

Edited by stiemmy, August 22, 2016 - 11:24 AM.

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#4 Billy M OFFLINE  

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Posted August 23, 2016 - 08:41 AM

I talked to an older buddy of mine that has worked on small engines a long time.  He agreed the rubber was probably dry-rotted and a new bendix should hold up just fine.  Now that I mention it, the K series (that the same thing happened to) was fine after a new bendix.  I'm putting a new starter on this, since I have to pull the engine to replace it.  I just put a new bendix on the K series starter.


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#5 stiemmy ONLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2016 - 10:56 PM

I talked to an older buddy of mine that has worked on small engines a long time.  He agreed the rubber was probably dry-rotted and a new bendix should hold up just fine.  Now that I mention it, the K series (that the same thing happened to) was fine after a new bendix.  I'm putting a new starter on this, since I have to pull the engine to replace it.  I just put a new bendix on the K series starter.


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#6 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2016 - 02:54 PM

Yeah I have the same thing going on with my KT19 In my GT19 Ariens. I have to yank the engine anyway to fix the blown oil seal under the flywheel and to see what happened to the charging system as it instantly blows any fuse that I put in there, I put a new fuel pump in it and dropped one of the fuel pump bolts behind the flywheel and that's when the fuse blowing started. I thought it would have dropped out the bottom but I guess not.
I have a brand new starter for it here that came in a box of other goodies that I found on CL. IDK if I want to put that new one onto that machine yet or not. I have it and I certainly don't want to be pulling the engine more than once but that unit has a lot of hours on it and I am on the lookout for a good used low hour swap candidate to put on the shelf for just in case I would blow that one up but I haven't found it yet.
A guy 150 miles away had 2 listed on Craigslist when I was broke....
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#7 Billy M OFFLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2016 - 08:52 AM

Update...I replaced the starter over the weekend.  It took me 1½ hours each to pull & replace the engine.  Not too bad.  I removed the bendix from the old starter to inspect and it was in 2 pieces, totally separated from the rubber.  I would say it was definitely bad! 

 

On a side note...I did find out why it was pulling so many amps during starting as well.  The ground wire going to to intake bolt would jump every time I hit the starter.  The shroud over the head had the bolt missing behind the starter.  The shield had come down and welded itself to the starter stud.  Dead short every time I used the starter.  It surprisingly still worked fine though!

 

Also, the new starter had the stud out the side of  the brush holder.  I needed it out the back.  Soooo...with my experience of rebuilding many many Elect-Trak motors, I tore the new starter apart, drilled a hole in the back of the brush holder, relocated the stud to the back, and plugged the hole in the side with a rubber vacuum port cap.  It was a simple ½ hour fix with the right tools.

 

All is well with the GT17 now.  I used it all day Sunday toting my 6x12 trailer around moving tractor attachments to another building.



#8 Helganazy OFFLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2016 - 06:07 PM

Occasionally I will have what sounds like the Bendix drive on the starter make a mechanical clashing noise before the engine starts. It does not happen all the time. I have only the car keys on the fob so nothing is causing the key to be pulled out of the ignition. The exhaust system was just replaced. Is it possible to rebuild the starter or replace the Bendix drive? Is it possible that there are some teeth on the fly wheel that are worn and if so, are fly wheels repairable/replaceable?

#9 Billy M OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2016 - 09:51 AM

Occasionally I will have what sounds like the Bendix drive on the starter make a mechanical clashing noise before the engine starts. It does not happen all the time. I have only the car keys on the fob so nothing is causing the key to be pulled out of the ignition. The exhaust system was just replaced. Is it possible to rebuild the starter or replace the Bendix drive? Is it possible that there are some teeth on the fly wheel that are worn and if so, are fly wheels repairable/replaceable?

Your bendix is probably sticking a little and not fully engaging.  It's hard to access where you need to clean/lubricate to fix it.  You can replace just the bendix, but if you have to pull the engine to get to it, you may want to replace the entire starter with a new one.

 

If you do have bad teeth on your flywheel, used flywheels aren't too hard to find around here.  I don't know about Finland though.??



#10 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2016 - 06:17 AM

I just checked my source for these starters and the Bendix repair parts are twice the cost of a new starter.



#11 Billy M OFFLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2016 - 09:18 AM

I just checked my source for these starters and the Bendix repair parts are twice the cost of a new starter.

EPay has them for $20, if you don't mind non-OEM...

 

http://www.ebay.com/...3FUa2RD&vxp=mtr


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#12 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2016 - 12:17 PM

Yeah I had a couple of NOS ones here at one time collecting dust and I got tired of looking at so I sent them down the road and now I could use 2 of them.




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