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Anybody use Electrolysis Tank for derusting and paint removal ?


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#1 SNUFFY OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2016 - 09:22 AM

I saw somewhere about it and did some research...too easy to not try. I had an old 48 qt cooler doing nothing so I set it up for cleaning my gas tank on the 2414 PK......seemed to work ok but limited space and a leaky drain had me looking for something else. I`ve had a plastic food grade barrel about the size of a 55 gal drum on my carport for years....Thought about making a rain barrel out of it but the bright yellow wouldn`t fit in my daily sight from the house......

I cut the top out of it and got 4 of the 3/8 rebar fence posts for the anode I had been using around the garden for pulling strings for row lay off...got it going ...really worked good on the tank. I have the dash and the gas tank back in it again work on the rust that was under the layer of factory seal coat of some kind that was on it. In the inside of the tank was little surface rust but mostly pretty clean.

I was wanting to put the floor pan in it but it is too big on the end where the battery sits and damaged it.

I thinking about one of the square 250 gallon plastic tanks you see with the lightweight piping frames everywhere now and cutting the top out of it. You could put a whole lot of parts there at the same time.

I`m curious about the 2 amp charger on the bigger tank and the amount of baking soda you add. .I used I cup per instructions and increased to 4 cups in the bigger drum.  I sort of understand the electrical 'Physics' but I`m kind of like Tool Time Tim Allen.....if 2 amps is good then 10amps has to be better ...right?? Just kiddin` .....electric and water makes me nervous any way.

I also  saw in my research ( Google) about some people using cookie sheets as the anode ? Providing a Sheets of electrons I guess. I`ve got a couple of 4 foot flouro light reflectors that could be added to the rebars.... if it would enhance the performance and speed of the rust removal.

Just thinking out loud again and curious if anybody has any experience with this ?

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#2 Phluphy OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2016 - 10:14 AM

I saw somewhere about it and did some research...too easy to not try. I had an old 48 qt cooler doing nothing so I set it up for cleaning my gas tank on the 2414 PK......seemed to work ok but limited space and a leaky drain had me looking for something else. I`ve had a plastic food grade barrel about the size of a 55 gal drum on my carport for years....Thought about making a rain barrel out of it but the bright yellow wouldn`t fit in my daily sight from the house......

I cut the top out of it and got 4 of the 3/8 rebar fence posts for the anode I had been using around the garden for pulling strings for row lay off...got it going ...really worked good on the tank. I have the dash and the gas tank back in it again work on the rust that was under the layer of factory seal coat of some kind that was on it. In the inside of the tank was little surface rust but mostly pretty clean.

I was wanting to put the floor pan in it but it is too big on the end where the battery sits and damaged it.

I thinking about one of the square 250 gallon plastic tanks you see with the lightweight piping frames everywhere now and cutting the top out of it. You could put a whole lot of parts there at the same time.

I`m curious about the 2 amp charger on the bigger tank and the amount of baking soda you add. .I used I cup per instructions and increased to 4 cups in the bigger drum.  I sort of understand the electrical 'Physics' but I`m kind of like Tool Time Tim Allen.....if 2 amps is good then 10amps has to be better ...right?? Just kiddin` .....electric and water makes me nervous any way.

I also  saw in my research ( Google) about some people using cookie sheets as the anode ? Providing a Sheets of electrons I guess. I`ve got a couple of 4 foot flouro light reflectors that could be added to the rebars.... if it would enhance the performance and speed of the rust removal.

Just thinking out loud again and curious if anybody has any experience with this ?

I am not an expert on the subject but, after starting with a 5 gal. plastic bucket using 2 3/8 rods for anodes @ 2 amps I decided it wasn't working fast enough. I welded a 4x6 inch plate of 1/4 inch onto each of the rods. Bit much for the 2 amps, it kicked the built in breaker about every 20-30 seconds and amp meter nearly went off the end of the scale with this setup. Trimmed a good bit off sides of the plates, 1-1/2", cut down on current demand. Long story short, it's a process which cannot be Binfordized...slow and steady was the better method. Plus, it was discovered I was losing voltage due to using damp wood as an insulator...big no-no. Wood felt dry, but it obviously wasn't. Had a strip of 1/2" Delrin plastic and used it instead. My opinion, you would have been better off cutting the plastic barrel in half lengthwise. I was cleaning 8" front rims and seat bracket parts, which came out looking great, however, I believe to do larger parts would have been cost and labor prohibitive. I resorted to using spray carb cleaner and wire brush for paint removal which worked. Should mention, the overload on charger was possibly fried i.e. think it needs disassembled and possibly cleaned similarly to points in a distributor. Electrolysis works though. The solution doesn't wear out. It's bio-degradable and can be reused. Good luck.



#3 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2016 - 11:13 AM

There are some good articles on electrolysis in our files. Good Luck, Rick



#4 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2016 - 11:29 AM

I did use the process on a small scale...(5 gallon bucket).

Never set up a larger tank, but I do have a plastic 55 gallon drum to use.

You mentioned doing a gas tank....I read where a person had to "dangle" one of the anodes inside the tank to get it cleaned.

Did you experience a problem getting the inside clean?



#5 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2016 - 11:49 AM

I use a 10 amp charger. 2 amps will do but takes a lot longer. Remember that the anodes work on line of sight. They don't need to be bigger, but you need to have enough to go around.


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#6 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2016 - 12:03 PM

I have used this process on several things. Our member "Olcowhand" wrote a very good article here,
http://gardentractor...lectrolysis-r59
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#7 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2016 - 12:44 PM

That rust did not get there is two days why are some concerned about getting it off overnight?  Cheez people, wake up and be realistic.

Take your time and do it right.  It WILL and DOES work great.  Just don't rush it.


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#8 JBRamsey OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2016 - 01:19 PM

I'd rather let my parts sit in a tank for a week while I do something else, then stand hunched over a sandblast cabinet for hours.
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#9 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2016 - 02:23 PM

No matter what your rig is it's a slow process. Like mentioned several different locations for the anodes is better than larger ones.
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#10 Username OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2016 - 03:33 PM

Someone on a Facebook Power King group did paint and rust removal on much of a Terramite backhoe including the front bucket and things happened a lot better and faster that I ever expected.I can send yo a link to the group if you are interested.



#11 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2016 - 04:10 PM

I've used it before. Haven't set it back up out here yet. Does a great job!



#12 MiCarl ONLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2016 - 05:58 PM

Remember that when you run electricity through water it will break some of the water down into oxygen and hydrogen.  Do in a well ventilated area.


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#13 icpik OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2016 - 06:28 PM

At the OWWM web site (http://www.owwm.org/...aeabc60274627ca), members use it quite a bit.  Tried it once but was not sold.  Supposed to work well.

 

Don Hayes


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#14 SNUFFY OFFLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2016 - 07:02 AM

Thanks guys ....I think it may have been the facebook PK guys where I first saw it......The GTTalk link by Olcowhand is a really good read. Ive been pleased with the results so far and am still thinking the big 250Gal may be the way to go for the larger pcs. Build it where the anodes can be adjustable to the piece.



#15 SNUFFY OFFLINE  

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Posted September 20, 2016 - 06:17 AM

Now that I have PK2414 running and driving....I can finish up some of the clean and paint to finish this project. I`ve got a Case 444 Black Knight Demonstrator that I need to get running and since it has nearly the same engine as the PK I think I`ll start on it while it`s fresh in my old pea brain.

Thought I would show you my latest version of the Magnum Electro Tank. Got a 300 gal. Tote he had without the frame from my neighbor. Used the same 4 -3/8 rebar post ...ground a groove to get some fresh shiny metal to attach the wire with some copper base anti-seize for better connection. It`s a good thing I had the frame painted before I discovered this wonderful method or I would of had the frame, rear and bull gear case in here too !!! There`s one pic when I first started to use this tank  and then after I took it out before and after pressure blasting it. You could see the decals on the side coming loose...didn`t even know they there. And the one original decal you can see in the after blast pic showed up after 3000psi at about 2 inches away with the rotating head tip. Could not blast it off and the paint on the under side of the hood seemed bulletproof too. May be the only original paint on the whole tractor. I found 2-3 different coats in places.

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