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Forgive the new guy....another dumb question...


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#1 DZG OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2016 - 02:34 PM

Some of you seen my post about my "mysterious" yardman 11/4, as im sitting here kicking around ideas, if i cant get the 11hp briggs to run (or if i decided i wanted a more robust powerplant) how hard would it be to transplant the Kohler Command 18 from my 2185 cub cadet (the rest of the mower is pretty trashed) onto the old yard man?

#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2016 - 02:44 PM

Did you have pics in the other thread?if so, could you provide a link?

#3 DZG OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2016 - 02:49 PM

http://gardentractor...uestions/page-1.

I guess what im wondering about is mounting pattern, and with the cub being shaft drive if there was even a way to make it work on a belt drive without serious surgery, plus the yard man has all its drive stuff on the side of the tractor, so id have to mount it sideways. Im not worried about throttle linkage or wireing, that stuff is easy enough to figure out.

Not sure if its something i even wanna do, just an idea.

#4 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2016 - 03:59 PM

If first tractor, I say fix the one in stock config, or let it go, buy another more complete/running rig to work on. Hacking and Whacking is not for a first time guy to try to do. First, isn't the Briggs a Vertical?  If not, would think drive would need to be off any pto side of next engine, not the flywheel side like most shaft drive is now days. THAT makes it turn reverse of one driven off the pto side.  Probly less hassle to buy one of those $99 Predator engines from Harbor Freight and mount with all the tank and controls mounted on it and no hassles with all that to set up. I've seen guys put on a throttle cable to those and leave the key and other controls right on the engine, all where it was orig and no problems.  Buy a Wheelhorse for ease of working on and easy to find parts for, and one of best to use tractors for a beginner.



#5 DZG OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2016 - 04:19 PM

Actually the yardman is complete, and the drive is horizontal. The more i read and research the more i think keeping the briggs is best option lol
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#6 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2016 - 05:11 PM

Down load the B&S Manual from our Manuals Section. There is a troubleshooting section that shows how to step by step diagnose the problem. It will then refer you to the section that will describe how to fix it. Those old Briggs are usually very easy to work on. What is wrong? Good Luck, Rick



#7 DZG OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2016 - 05:17 PM

Last time i screwed with it i was 16, im 28 now and have alot more knowledge, it seemed like it wasnt getting spark IIRC. My dad says my grandpa rebuilt it about 3 months before he parked it (the deck rusted out), so it should run.

#8 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2016 - 05:27 PM

Last time i screwed with it i was 16, im 28 now and have alot more knowledge, it seemed like it wasnt getting spark IIRC. My dad says my grandpa rebuilt it about 3 months before he parked it (the deck rusted out), so it should run.

Fist thing I would do is remove the flywheel cover and get the rust off the flywheel and coil. Reset the coil and see if you have fire.


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#9 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2016 - 07:04 PM

If it has sat for 12 years, especially outside it will require a complete going through the main parts to get it to run.  Like KennyP said, start with the flywheel, then the points, may have to bypass the ignition switch as it could be toast too.  Once you get fire, start on the fuel end at the tank and go forward.  Carb rebuild definitely.  Check for compression along the way to be sure the valves are not stuck.  Good luck.



#10 DZG OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2016 - 07:13 PM

Luckly the whole time it has been stored its always been in a nice dry barn, completly out of any weather...

But thanks guys for the tips...im sure ill have more questions as time goes on about this and my other tractors.

#11 adamjd200 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2016 - 10:55 PM

Fist thing I would do is remove the flywheel cover and get the rust off the flywheel and coil. Reset the coil and see if you have fire.

Absolute first thing I check every time, can't count how many engines I have got that were cast aside because of this.


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