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Sears 10XL.


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#1 Kmac1 ONLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2016 - 12:34 PM

Pickup up this Sears 10 XL for $40. Motor is not locked up has good compression, right steering rod is broke, rolls easy, looks complete (more experienced eyes may see missing parts). Deck is complete and spindles turn freely. Might hear some bent noise in deck. Anyway that's all I know at this time. Any and all thoughts appreciated. Willie

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#2 Potsie33 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2016 - 12:37 PM

Good looking unit! Colors still look pretty sharp on it. Can't go wrong at that price too
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#3 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2016 - 12:50 PM

Nice!!!


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#4 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2016 - 01:32 PM

SCORES!

 

Those are great little tractors.There no light weight tractor either.They weigh 560lbs.

 

There is not much difference between those and a full sized Sears SS 12.SS12 weighs 630lbs and the 10XL weighs 560lbs.Wheel base is 63 inches VS 65 inches Dash Height and the front axle being Inside the frame is what makes them look small.Suburbans front axle are actually hung under the frame and the Customs axle are In the frame.

 

Pullers love to use the Sears custom front axles and bolt them to the front of there pulling tractors.Gets the front down Low and long and those axles are very strong.

 

Before you run it make sure your Carb is Spotless Inside and Out.If you remove the Venturi inside the carb Please post pics of it.Some are reusable but most of that vintage were Not reusable.Reinstalling a Unservicable Venturi will cause the engine to run Extremely Lean and run Very Very Hot.The result will be burnt rings,burnt exhaust valve and it will throw the connecting rod if it's run that way for any length of time.

 

 

Rule of thumb with a Tecumseh.If they run nice and cool they will last just as long as a K series Kohler.And I've seen those with over 3,000 hours on them and still running decent.  


Edited by EricFromPa, August 17, 2016 - 06:10 PM.

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#5 Merle013 ONLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2016 - 03:30 PM

Great looking tractor. Can't argue about the price.


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#6 redcarkids OFFLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2016 - 06:57 PM

SCORES!

 

Those are great little tractors.There no light weight tractor either.They weigh 560lbs.

 

There is not much difference between those and a full sized Sears SS 12.SS12 weighs 630lbs and the 10XL weighs 560lbs.Wheel base is 63 inches VS 65 inches Dash Height and the front axle being Inside the frame is what makes them look small.Suburbans front axle are actually hung under the frame and the Customs axle are In the frame.

 

Pullers love to use the Sears custom front axles and bolt them to the front of there pulling tractors.Gets the front down Low and long and those axles are very strong.

 

Before you run it make sure your Carb is Spotless Inside and Out.If you remove the Venturi inside the carb Please post pics of it.Some are reusable but most of that vintage were Not reusable.Reinstalling a Unservicable Venturi will cause the engine to run Extremely Lean and run Very Very Hot.The result will be burnt rings,burnt exhaust valve and it will throw the connecting rod if it's run that way for any length of time.

 

 

Rule of thumb with a Tecumseh.If they run nice and cool they will last just as long as a K series Kohler.And I've seen those with over 3,000 hours on them and still running decent.  

please explain to me or show me a photo of the venture.  is this the same thing called the nozzle or emulsion tube??  I also just got a 1970 model of this tractor and have torn the carb apart.  put it back together and it runs but now AM CONCERNED about your statement.

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Edited by redcarkids, August 20, 2016 - 07:01 PM.

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#7 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2016 - 07:59 PM

please explain to me or show me a photo of the venture.  is this the same thing called the nozzle or emulsion tube??  I also just got a 1970 model of this tractor and have torn the carb apart.  put it back together and it runs but now AM CONCERNED about your statement.

 

This is a really good manual on Tecumseh Carbs.Download it and go through it.It will help ALOT.

 

Page 14 is what your looking for with the main nozzle/emulsion tube/jet or venturi.It has the needle seat for the Jet and it is the main nozzle AKA Venturi/Emulsion tube since it does also go up into the throat of the carb.Some people even call it a metering valve.

 

https://www.dropbox....f=e&n=233216217

 

carb.jpg


Edited by EricFromPa, August 20, 2016 - 08:00 PM.

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#8 Buck Tales OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2016 - 01:38 PM

Sweet buy!! Congratulations!!! That machine looks real nice and can't beat the price. Eric is steering you in the right direction for sure. When these puppies are tuned in and running strong they can do some work and will last a lifetime. I love mine and don't want to ever trade any of them. The 10HP power plants can do everything I need from from plowing and tilling the garden to cutting grass or plowing snow. Good luck on a great find.


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#9 redcarkids OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2016 - 05:20 AM

This is a really good manual on Tecumseh Carbs.Download it and go through it.It will help ALOT.

 

Page 14 is what your looking for with the main nozzle/emulsion tube/jet or venturi.It has the needle seat for the Jet and it is the main nozzle AKA Venturi/Emulsion tube since it does also go up into the throat of the carb.Some people even call it a metering valve.

 

https://www.dropbox....f=e&n=233216217

 

attachicon.gifcarb.jpg

 

This is a really good manual on Tecumseh Carbs.Download it and go through it.It will help ALOT.

 

Page 14 is what your looking for with the main nozzle/emulsion tube/jet or venturi.It has the needle seat for the Jet and it is the main nozzle AKA Venturi/Emulsion tube since it does also go up into the throat of the carb.Some people even call it a metering valve.

 

https://www.dropbox....f=e&n=233216217

 

attachicon.gifcarb.jpg

Not to steal  Kmac1 post, I did take the nozzle out and bought a new one like the diagram above shows.  the one on the left was the replacement.  When I got the new on it would not screw into the throat.  it would only go in flush.  The old one went in about half a inch.  discouraged I went a head and rebuilt the carb and put the old one back in.  Everything seem to be running fine as of now.  How will I know if it is running hot?  Will it cough or sputter? Any reasons as to why the new nozzle did not go on down into the carb?  the part number match what I was suppose to have for the carb. I also rebuilt the fuel pump.  both were very easy to do. 

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#10 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2016 - 02:48 PM

Might of sent you the wrong one? The larger LME carbs have a longer tube.

 

Those carbs have 2 idle circuits.They will run rough at idle and hunt badly and pop and carry on at above 3/4 throttle.If it does either then it's running to lean.

 

I've modified quite a few of those emulsion tubes with a hack saw.Cut a groove the whole way around Just deeper than the threads and actually enlarge the hole a tiny bit.

 

When that's done they will idle down NICE and low with no hunting.I actually think the factory hole is a little to small to begin with.Opening up the hole and cutting the groove makes adjusting it to a perfect low Idle very easy.

 

So if you got 1 that doesn't seem to be doing anything when you adjust the idle mixture screw this may help also.

 

 

If it's running hot you will be able to feel the heat under the hood.It will get hot really quick.


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#11 redcarkids OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2016 - 05:59 PM

one more quick question.  the manual said the rear end takes 5 quart of sae 30 weight oil with MM and MS.  Is this normal 10w 30 weight or straight 30 weight oil???  what is the MM or MS for or mean? 


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#12 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2016 - 09:00 PM

Non Detergent 30 wt oil.MM and MS was the classification for motor oils Pre 2001.

 

API classification equivalent for gasoline-only engines was MS (motor severe)

early API classification MM (motor moderate)

 

Nice write-up on engine oil classifications from 1932 to 2001.

http://www.earlytime...engineoils.html

 

 

Just go to tractor supply and grab a 2 gallon jug of Traveller non detergent 30wt.It's $19 for the 2 gallon jug.Use the rest in your push mower engines.Those do need the oil changed in them every couple of years to.Most people just use them till they quit then buy another one every 5 years or so lol.

I used that in my SS14 and SS15 and used what was left as Chainsaw bar oil for my old Mcculloch chainsaws and the push mowers.

http://www.tractorsu...ent-sae30-2-gal


Edited by EricFromPa, August 24, 2016 - 09:05 PM.

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