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Quite a challenge----


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#1 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted August 15, 2016 - 10:53 PM

---- I've been handed!! A close lady friend asked me to see if I can repair her Honda HS80 tracked snowblower. Got it home and found the rotor shaft can't be turned w/ a pipe wrench. Removed the blower housing and found the brg between the drive pulley and the rotor lost all it's balls. Got the augers and rotor shaft out of the housing and found one auger has an implement pin for a shear bolt and the other has a grade 5 bolt. Got the implement pin driven out and found both augers are rusted very snugly on their shafts and one side is bent. The rotor shear bolt was gone. I tried heating the one side w/ my O/A heating tip w/ my puller on it and beating on the arms w/ my large brass punch and 2 lb hammer and managed to move it about 3/16" while I had a wet rag wrapped around the shaft to protect the gearbox seal. Finally gave up on the heat and now have it hanging w/ that side down and squirting an ATF/acetone mix to hopefully work it down the length of the auger and hope that will free it. If I can get this side off then I can put that end of the shaft in the vise and use heat and a pipe wrench to get the other off and not worry about the shaft seals and hope the gear on the shaft isn't plastic. The auger on the bent side has a small kink in the flight that I think I can straighten w/ heat and two hammers. The gearbox works fine and no strange noises, the wheel drive train seems to work and the Honda engine runs great. If I get the go ahead I plan to drill a couple of holes in each auger and weld some 1/4"x28 nuts over the holes to install some zerks in so the shaft and augers can receive some grease periodically.

  I'll get her over here tomorrow and show her what needs to be done and see how much she want's to put in it. I have no idea how much time I'll burn up getting the augers off and then parts and reassembly. Now the reason all the damage occurred IMO. She has a son living w/ her in his 40's who is a mechanical "0" but thinks he knows it all. All the evidence I see points to him thinking it's an ice crusher. If I can fix it reasonably I'll tell her the son needs some education on proper snowblower operation. If he doesn't want to learn then buy him a snow shovel, pick and square nose shovel, LOL!!. I'll have updates if this goes ahead.

                                    Thanks,

                                                 Mike


Edited by ol' stonebreaker, August 15, 2016 - 10:58 PM.

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#2 secondtry OFFLINE  

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Posted August 15, 2016 - 11:17 PM

 The son needs practice buying new snow throwers. Best mechanical knowledge incentive available. 


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#3 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2016 - 05:23 AM

The son needs practice buying new snow throwers. Best mechanical knowledge incentive available.


Nah, chances are that mom pays for it.
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#4 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2016 - 06:11 AM

I'm envisioning what you are describing but...

 

:smashing_pc:  :wewantpics:



#5 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2016 - 08:39 AM

  About all I can show right now is the auger shaft hanging vertically and I'm waiting for the penetrant to work down inside the shaft. I'll get pics if she gives the go ahead. Does anyone have a suggestion for how to clamp down the opposite auger so I can apply heat to the auger shaft and try to turn it w/ a pipe wrench to break the rust loose. If it comes to heating again I'll just have to sacrifice the shaft seals. I think I'll probably have to weld the one auger down on the welding table via some pieces of small angle iron so I can really put some torque to it's opposite. No need to worry about bending the shaft!!

                                  Mike



#6 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2016 - 05:01 PM

  Update: Got the one auger off the straight end of the shaft buy welding the other down to the welding table(see pics). Clamped the shaft in the vise and applied a lot of heat to get the other off but no go. Shaft is too hard for the vise to grip good so I'm back to hanging it and using the ATF/acetone mix. The mix seemed to work on the first auger, just took a little twisting to get it off. I'll keep doing this overnite and weld the shaft down to the table via some pieces of 3/8" round stock alongside it. The shaft is NLA as far as I can find so I may try to straighten it before ordering parts. With the shaft so hard I'll probably have to use heat to do it.

                                   Mike

 

honda 001 (Small).JPG

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honda 003 (Small).JPG

honda 004 (Small).JPG



#7 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2016 - 05:12 PM

  Update: Got everything off the shaft in pieces. Using my scarfing tip I carefully cut all the welds holding the auger spokes on the shaft and the shear bolt collar. Then I split the shaft with a cutoff wheel and had to cut the last couple of inches of it w/  the dremel and cutoff wheel. Got the gearbox and bearing off the shaft, stuck it in my holding jig and heated the inside of the bend and straightened it by eye. Welded the jigs for the shaft bearings down on the table and clamped the bearings down in the jigs to check runout on the shaft. Set up my dial indicator w/ magnetic base and I think I should go buy some lottery tickets. .025" runout right where the bend was!! I think that is quite a stroke of luck to not have to do more heating and bending!! Now I can order the rotor shaft bearing, 3 gearbox seals and a pack of shear bolts. Got to straighten a little kink in one of the auger flights and get both auger shafts set up w/ grease zerks so maybe this won't reoccur. I'll try to take pics of the reassembly process.

                                     Mike

 

honda 006 (Small).JPG

honda 007 (Small).JPG

honda 008 (Small).JPG


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#8 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2016 - 09:17 AM

  Update: Got the split shaft welded and installed zerks on both shafts. I want to wait for parts to arrive so I can have the shear bolt in place and the auger shaft on the drive shaft before welding the collar back in place. Straightened two rotor blades that had encountered big rocks. Sanded all the rust and most of the rock nicks out of the rotor housing and chute and painted them along with rotor blades.

                                         Mike

 

honda 001 (Small).JPG

honda 002 (Small).JPG

honda 003 (Small).JPG

honda 004 (Small).JPG

honda 005 (Small).JPG


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#9 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2016 - 10:38 AM

  Great that it's coming along so well but I'm just a little confused , does the shaft spin inside the auger where you put the new grease fitting in ?



#10 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2016 - 10:50 AM

Ya oughtta rename the thread:  tales of the Ball-less bearing!

 

Teach him what the heck a zerk is and how to grease the thing too!


Edited by WNYTractorTinkerer, August 24, 2016 - 10:54 AM.

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#11 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2016 - 12:51 PM

  Alc, the drive shaft spins inside the auger shaft if the shear bolt shears off. I made it so it can be greased so the things I've been fixing won't reoccur. A lot of folks don't know those grooves cut into them are for a reason.

   WNY, All the brgs are sealed, but I intend to give him a short course on the care and feeding of a snow blower including giving those two zerks a shot or two over the winter and especially when it's put away for the summmer. No rocks, chunks of ice, rolled up newspapers, dead cats, etc. If you can avoid things like that the shear bolts will last a long time. Not tooting my horn but my Poulan has been thru 2 winters and still has the original shears in it.

                                        Mike  


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#12 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted September 04, 2016 - 10:04 AM

  I forgot to take pics of final assembly after parts arrived and it's out the door. Everything went well and performs as good as new.

                                Mike






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