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How easy does your power steering turn on your 1886?


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#1 Husky ONLINE  

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Posted August 15, 2016 - 11:58 AM

I got my power steering unit rebuilt on my 1886. My hydraulics guy got the cessna control valve apart and replaced whatever orings he could find in there. We replaced the orings and seals in the cylinder portion as well. That took care of the external leakage I was seeing. 

 

This power steering helps when I turn the wheel but does not help very much. It's only a fraction better than without the power steering. Could anyone who has this setup on their 1886 tell me how easy it turns the wheel? On my HT23 that I had I could turn the wheel with one finger. I can not do that on my 1886. I'm wondering if this is why they only used this setup for a few years before switching to the setup used on the HT series. The flow divider spool is installed the correct way on the proportioning valve on the tractor also. There is also a reducer that is supposed to be installed in the 3/4-16 tee assy coming off the hydro. I need to see if that reducer is installed. Something must be wrong here. Any thoughts is appreciated. 


Edited by Husky, August 15, 2016 - 12:07 PM.


#2 stiemmy ONLINE  

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Posted August 15, 2016 - 01:07 PM

I saw one once here a while back on an 1886, and you could turn it with one finger as well.
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#3 Husky ONLINE  

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Posted August 15, 2016 - 01:15 PM

I saw one once here a while back on an 1886, and you could turn it with one finger as well.

Thank you, I'm going to look and see if the 'reducer' at the tee is simply a reducer that allows the tubing to connect to the 3/4" tee of if perhaps it is an inline/internal reducer that may step up the pressure. If that's the case maybe mine is missing and not stepping up the pressure. Something is not working right here.



#4 stiemmy ONLINE  

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Posted August 15, 2016 - 01:21 PM

Sorry I wish I was more help to you, but Im part of the unfortunate crowd that doesnt have P.S.

Maybe have a peek at the manuals section if you haven't already;)
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#5 Husky ONLINE  

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Posted August 15, 2016 - 05:34 PM

Well I looked at my 1886 tee and there is no external reducer connected to the tee so I'm guessing that the reducer is inline/internal. Now my question is what size orifice is it? I attached a picture from the power steering parts list and of the tee. Would anyone have that reducer kicking around to take a measurement from? 

Attached Thumbnails

  • reducer.jpg
  • reducer_1.jpg


#6 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

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Posted August 15, 2016 - 09:29 PM

What is connected to the Tee on your tractor? The Tee is JIC 8 male , the reducer that I have pictured and the parts you see are factory NOS.It is a JIC 8 female to a JIC 6 male . Did you install the PS on your 1886 ? Was it an NOS kit ? Did it come with the divider spool and you installed it ? Has it always worked as you describe ?

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_20160815_2202232_rewind.jpg
  • IMG_20160815_2202544_rewind.jpg
  • IMG_20160815_2202592_rewind.jpg
  • IMG_20160815_2213141_rewind.jpg
  • IMG_20160815_2213312_rewind.jpg

Edited by WrenchinOnIt, August 15, 2016 - 09:47 PM.

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#7 Husky ONLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2016 - 06:51 AM

Yes we installed the power steering ourselves. It was on another 1886 at one point. The flow divider spool was installed correctly in the proportioning valve with the 'x' pointing out as per the instructions. I see the adapter in your picture looks pretty basic. I will need to have a second look at my tee and see if it is installed. I'm guessing it's there because all the hard lines look to be original NOS lines.  I would guess they would not fit onto the tee without the adapter? Hopefully the adapter is missing and the lines are NOT NOS. Yes it never worked well since it was installed on my tractor. I don't know how well it worked on the previous tractor. Thank you for the detailed pictures that clears up things for me. I'll keep you posted.


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#8 BolensChrisUK OFFLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2016 - 11:23 AM

Well as I am a MAN I dont need power steering on mine :D

 

When the boss lady drives it she does not complain either :thumbs:

 

I only know of one PAS Kit in the UK . Thats on an HT20 owned by Dave :shoot2:



#9 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2016 - 03:38 PM

Well as I am a MAN I dont need power steering on mine :D
 
When the boss lady drives it she does not complain either :thumbs:
 
I only know of one PAS Kit in the UK . Thats on an HT20 owned by Dave :shoot2:


Well, over on this side of the pond our opportunities to own PS units are better than yours no doubt , the cool factor of having one hanging out the side of the HT is only trumped by the creature comfort that it provides to the operators. You'll need fingers and toes to count mine on operating units.
"boss lady" probably wouldn't complain if they weren't there, maybe a little once using it then being without. But us MEN who have them know that the energy the "boss lady" doesn't have to exert wrestling the LF's steering wheel can be exerted later.. you know after dark.. lights low.. getting the picture?
Yep that's right I'm stretched out, just right ,almost flat out just the right amount of incline..

" hey honey toss me the remote, and would you grab me a another beer". Yes we call it the "power steering option" Manly for sure.
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#10 Husky ONLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2016 - 06:38 AM

Well I traced out all of the plumbing and everything is connected correctly. I tried cycling the lift lever and the aux hydraulic lever while turning the steering wheel. It locks the steering wheel when either of the levers are cycled so I know that hydraulic pressure is arriving at the power steering unit.

 

My next move is going to be to disconnect the piston rod at the frame of the tractor. I will cycle the steering wheel and see if the rod moves in and out. If it moves I'll see if I can get a feeling of how much power it has. I have a feeling that the cessna control valve is worn internally and there wont be much I can do about that. It may end up just being a pretty addition to my tractor.


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#11 stiemmy ONLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2016 - 07:29 AM

Well, over on this side of the pond our opportunities to own PS units are better than yours no doubt , the cool factor of having one hanging out the side of the HT is only trumped by the creature comfort that it provides to the operators. You'll need fingers and toes to count mine on operating units.
"boss lady" probably wouldn't complain if they weren't there, maybe a little once using it then being without. But us MEN who have them know that the energy the "boss lady" doesn't have to exert wrestling the LF's steering wheel can be exerted later.. you know after dark.. lights low.. getting the picture?
Yep that's right I'm stretched out, just right ,almost flat out just the right amount of incline..
" hey honey toss me the remote, and would you grab me a another beer". Yes we call it the "power steering option" Manly for sure.


That is awesome!!!!!

If I could figure out how to put that in my quote on a dumb smartphone, Id do it in a second....that is priceless;)
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#12 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2016 - 10:07 AM

Well I traced out all of the plumbing and everything is connected correctly. I tried cycling the lift lever and the aux hydraulic lever while turning the steering wheel. It locks the steering wheel when either of the levers are cycled so I know that hydraulic pressure is arriving at the power steering unit.

 

My next move is going to be to disconnect the piston rod at the frame of the tractor. I will cycle the steering wheel and see if the rod moves in and out. If it moves I'll see if I can get a feeling of how much power it has. I have a feeling that the cessna control valve is worn internally and there wont be much I can do about that. It may end up just being a pretty addition to my tractor.

I assume you have checked to make sure the mechanical part of the steering moves freely - tie rods, steering arms etc. - just a thought in case something is partially seized and requiring a lot of force to move it.


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#13 Husky ONLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2016 - 10:59 AM

I assume you have checked to make sure the mechanical part of the steering moves freely - tie rods, steering arms etc. - just a thought in case something is partially seized and requiring a lot of force to move it.

That is a good thought as we did replace:

 

Main steering gear bushings

Main lower steering shaft bushing

Main upper steering shaft bushing

Every tie rod and drag link ends

 

The entire steering system is basically new and is quite tight. Based on the performance of the tiny lift cylinders on the tube frame tractors I can't imagine that anything could stop this steering setup from moving. It basically feels the same as it did when there was no power steering on it. I'm leaning towards a worn out cessna control valve assy. At least I can get it apart for a 2nd look if necessary. My hydraulics guy also runs a machine shop specifically to aid in rebuilding hydraulics. He may be able to assist in some machining if necessary. 


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#14 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2016 - 12:25 PM

[quote name="Husky" post="705567" timestamp="1471433888"]Well I traced out all of the plumbing and everything is connected correctly. I tried cycling the lift lever and the aux hydraulic lever while turning the steering wheel. It locks the steering wheel when either of the levers are cycled so I know that hydraulic pressure is arriving at the power steering unit.
My next move is going to be to disconnect the piston rod at the frame of the tractor. I will cycle the steering wheel and see if the rod moves in and out. If it moves I'll see if I can get a feeling of how much power it has. I have a feeling that the cessna control valve is worn internally and there wont be much I can do about that. It may end up just being a pretty addition to my tractor.]

Now you have me thinking what could be worn out it the control valve, the spool fitment is based on the orings for clearances, there is no metal to metal contact. How did the spool go in? Tight ? This set up is a bastard compared to most valve/spool combos , usually you slide the spool in and work the orings into the valve body to avoid tearing the oring . It is impossible to do on the Cessna valve, you have to lubricate the bejesus out of the spool so it won't tear them on installation I use copious amounts of white lithium grease , cross my fingers and usually have to rap it with a soft blow hammer to get the the spool past the orings and into position, I've still tore a few and had to tear it down and go again.

A pitted spool on the bosses would allow blow by affecting pressure , but other than that I don't know. Basically the fluid leaves the pump in 1/2" lines the tee drops it to 3/8" then down to 1/4" hoses attaching to the unit. I see this as more an end of the line piping design if you will rather than a desired pressure increase , thou reasons to be the restrictions however slight should allow additional pressure and not affect flow. Maybe I'll drag the 86 I was going to put mine on out , plum it up and see. I am defiantly curious now.

As a side note Rick Show (blackjackjakexxix) plumbed the later style ps unit on his '86 with no divider spool, he had an FEL on it and said it made a huge difference , he had no issues and ran it for several years problem free hydraulically . Not period correct but his was function over form. Just something to consider.

Edited by WrenchinOnIt, August 17, 2016 - 04:31 PM.

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#15 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2016 - 07:01 PM

 This set up is a bastard compared to most valve/spool combos , usually you slide the spool in and work the orings into the valve body to avoid tearing the oring . It is impossible to do on the Cessna valve, you have to lubricate the bejesus out of the spool so it won't tear them on installation I use copious amounts of white lithium grease , cross my fingers and usually have to rap it with a soft blow hammer to get the the spool past the orings and into position, I've still tore a few and had to tear it down and go again.

Would there be enough room for a .001, .002" or .005"sheet of brass shimstock rolled in the bore once the orings are installed to allow the spool to slide in without catching on the orings?  Just thinking that if there was you could slide the spool in and then pull the shimstock out without ripping the orings


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