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SS/16 TWIN Project or Parts ?

sears suburban

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#1 oldcuz OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2016 - 02:53 PM

Just bought a Sears Suburban SS/16 Twin all I got to bring home today was the hood its pretty rusty compared to the rest of the tractor that is not to bad to have been sitting out, previous owner is going to get it off of a trailer that I could not get my truck close enough to so I could load it probably will have to get a tractor and a boom pole to get to it, I would say its 95% complete a few little things missing, its got the main parts complete motor and it is stuck but it will move a little back and fourth, transmission 4spd w/hi low, wheels tires, rear end, seat, steering complete, does have a broke tie rod, dash complete, does not have a deck I'll worry about that later if I decide to save it and will make that call when I get it home and see if I can get the motor unstuck and see what all I am going to need I really want save it and have something to channel my Sears tractor obsession toward, but if not I'll have plenty of parts when I find another one, I think its a 1973 ? did not get the model # looked like a man could have got snake bit where it was sitting, going to post some photos of the hood and my broke grill, I will post some of the tractor when I get it home. 

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#2 Merle013 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2016 - 03:52 PM

I look forward to more photos. Dont we all LOL. trying to talk my father in law out of his ST. I made a lot of money as a kid on one of these. Hope yours can be saved.


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#3 oldcuz OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2016 - 04:04 PM

I look forward to more photos. Dont we all LOL. trying to talk my father in law out of his ST. I made a lot of money as a kid on one of these. Hope yours can be saved.

Thanks Merle013  It will have to be really bad or luck up on a better one before I give up on it, Good luck on the ST



#4 JiminRI OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2016 - 06:24 PM

I hope you can save it! There are lots of parts available.

If it is a 1973, the model number should be 917.25751 (like mine).

If it is a 1974, the model number should be 917.25752.

Good luck,

JiminRI


Edited by JiminRI, August 12, 2016 - 06:24 PM.

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#5 oldcuz OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2016 - 07:06 PM

I hope you can save it! There are lots of parts available.

If it is a 1973, the model number should be 917.25751 (like mine).

If it is a 1974, the model number should be 917.25752.

Good luck,

JiminRI

Thank you JiminRI I have been looking on the web seems to be available parts and information I may have a better chance finding the parts I need with this one. hopefully I want need to many, I'll try them model #'s


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#6 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2016 - 09:58 PM

If it the engine moves a little it can easily be saved.Take both heads off and wire wheel the snot out of it with your brass wheel you have there.Get it right down into the cylinder.Don't worry about scratching it up a little.The rings will smooth small scratches left by the wire wheel back out when they fully reseat in 15-20 minutes of run time.

 

Don't just dump PB Blaster in the plug holes and crank it over.It might have very thick swelled up carbon deposits.You could easily bend a valve or bust a piston if you try to get it loose by forcing it with a breaker bar on the flywheel nut.

 

I've got 2 twin cylinder onans running in the last couple months that were stuck from sitting.Both run very good with the exception of the BG48 having a severely corroded carburetor but it does run well just won't hold carb settings.It Either runs way to rich or way to lean.

 

Don't know why but every one I get here to work on with the round carb gives me troubles.Everyone says the square carbs are the troublesome ones.


Edited by EricFromPa, August 12, 2016 - 09:58 PM.

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#7 holdenboy1960 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2016 - 10:57 PM

save it as to have another Machine to admire 

 

Shane



#8 oldcuz OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2016 - 11:38 AM

If it the engine moves a little it can easily be saved.Take both heads off and wire wheel the snot out of it with your brass wheel you have there.Get it right down into the cylinder.Don't worry about scratching it up a little.The rings will smooth small scratches left by the wire wheel back out when they fully reseat in 15-20 minutes of run time.

 

Don't just dump PB Blaster in the plug holes and crank it over.It might have very thick swelled up carbon deposits.You could easily bend a valve or bust a piston if you try to get it loose by forcing it with a breaker bar on the flywheel nut.

 

I've got 2 twin cylinder onans running in the last couple months that were stuck from sitting.Both run very good with the exception of the BG48 having a severely corroded carburetor but it does run well just won't hold carb settings.It Either runs way to rich or way to lean.

 

Don't know why but every one I get here to work on with the round carb gives me troubles.Everyone says the square carbs are the troublesome ones.

Great information EricFromPa I was going on the web to find out the best way to free the engine up but sounds like you have first hand experience I will try it your way, that is the first thing I planned on doing when I get it home. Thank you very much for that information can't wait to get started and try it out. the carb on the BG48 have you soaked it in carb cleaner or rebuilt it yet or is it to corroded I have never tried it but have heard or using tip cleaners like you clean cutting torches with to clean out the small carb adjustment holes there are some real small tip cleaners in the kit, wish I knew more about it and could offer some useful help on the carb problem, think I will probably have trouble with mine where its been outside in the elements.    


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#9 oldcuz OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2016 - 11:56 AM

save it as to have another Machine to admire 

 

Shane

Thanks Shane with all the available parts I have chance to save it if its not to far gone if I can get the motor un-stuck and get it running will make a big difference you never know the transmission or rear end could also be bad at that point you have to decide if its worth it. I am a long way from giving up right now. 


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#10 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2016 - 02:22 PM

The BG48 carb is corroded pretty bad around the outside and inside of the mixture screw.It doesn't leak but won't hold adjustments.The jets are also seized in it from corrosion.

 

It's that nasty white colored corrosion that eats aluminum.

 

Both Onan engines that I've unseized run pretty good.1 was on a later model plastic dash.plastic gas tank SS16.It was stuck pretty hard but if you rocked the flywheel it did move slightly.That one had a nasty spot in the rear cylinder where water had laid and slightly pitted the cylinder.

 

I cleaned it up with a wire wheel and took a hunk of 100 grit sand paper and smoothed it out the best I could.Sprayed out with brake clean and put it back together and fired it up.

 

It smoked a little on the rear cylinder for about 5 minutes then cleared up.It runs great.Only thing on that one is once it sits for a few days it will siphon the gas out of the carb.Diaphragms are hard in the pump and the valves in the pump hang open when not in use.Float needle is also very hard.

 

Never seen one siphon every drop of gas out of the float bowl like that.To start it after that you have to dump a little gas down the carb.It takes to long for the carb to pump it up with the starter.And the starter on it was pretty worn out.

 

He's bringing it back up when the fuel pump kit shows up and I'll rebuild it.

 

The BG48 is off of a small skid loader.I told the owner to pull the engine and bring it down,he has the rest of it apart for paint and bushing replacement so it wasn't a big deal for him to drop it off.

 

The onan in the SS16 is a BF/MS.It's a real smooth and strong runner.


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#11 oldcuz OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2016 - 11:54 PM

The BG48 carb is corroded pretty bad around the outside and inside of the mixture screw.It doesn't leak but won't hold adjustments.The jets are also seized in it from corrosion.

 

It's that nasty white colored corrosion that eats aluminum.

 

Both Onan engines that I've unseized run pretty good.1 was on a later model plastic dash.plastic gas tank SS16.It was stuck pretty hard but if you rocked the flywheel it did move slightly.That one had a nasty spot in the rear cylinder where water had laid and slightly pitted the cylinder.

 

I cleaned it up with a wire wheel and took a hunk of 100 grit sand paper and smoothed it out the best I could.Sprayed out with brake clean and put it back together and fired it up.

 

It smoked a little on the rear cylinder for about 5 minutes then cleared up.It runs great.Only thing on that one is once it sits for a few days it will siphon the gas out of the carb.Diaphragms are hard in the pump and the valves in the pump hang open when not in use.Float needle is also very hard.

 

Never seen one siphon every drop of gas out of the float bowl like that.To start it after that you have to dump a little gas down the carb.It takes to long for the carb to pump it up with the starter.And the starter on it was pretty worn out.

 

He's bringing it back up when the fuel pump kit shows up and I'll rebuild it.

 

The BG48 is off of a small skid loader.I told the owner to pull the engine and bring it down,he has the rest of it apart for paint and bushing replacement so it wasn't a big deal for him to drop it off.

 

The onan in the SS16 is a BF/MS.It's a real smooth and strong runner.

Sounds like the BG48 carb is toast I guess at this point theirs nothing left to do but replace it ? haven't priced a new carb for one of these Onan engines and would think they ain't cheap or maybe find a good used one that could at least be rebuilt. 

 

That's one of the things that concerns me the most is water in the motor I pulled the dip stick and the oil did not look milky at all but it did look over full and the oil looked black but a little thin the carb doesn't look to corroded but it could have let some water in the cylinders wasn't covered up to good I guess as long as nothing is cracked or busted in the motor that all that matters at this point I got some course wet dry sandpaper if the cylinders are still rough after the wire brushing.

 

Well hopefully when you get the fuel problems fixed on these 2 engines they should be in pretty good shape

 

I have never worked on any engines like the Onan 16hp just 3 - 4 - 5hp Briggs and Tecumseh engines got Honda GX160 on a old vintage mini bike never have had to work on it, these twin cylinder onan's look like they got power to spare and with regular maintenance last forever.

 

 I would imagine a engine used on a skid loader would have to be a heavy duty reliable engine they are a lot of them still going strong on these old garden tractors and not all of them has lived the easy life.         


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#12 oldcuz OFFLINE  

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Posted August 14, 2016 - 10:00 PM

Just got the SS/16 suburban home today after two trips and $30.00 in cash its all mine, bought it from a old friend I haven't seen in over 30yrs seen him at the hardware store and after we talked about the good old bad old days I said I was getting some parts for a old sears LT8 mower I was working on and he said I got a old sears garden tractor I would like to get rid of it got a pretty big engine not sure what, its in the way and a little rough and missing a few parts, well all I heard was sears garden tractor, that's the whole sad story, I will make a long list of all the parts it needs but before I spend to much on it I am going to try and get the onan engine unseized and if that goes good I'll get it running, brought the hood home the other day and it was pretty rusty I cleaned it up and rust killed it going to prime it tomorrow, the fiberglass nose was broke and missing some pieces If I cant find one reasonable I'll fix this one back but a lot stronger, here is a few photos  

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#13 oldcuz OFFLINE  

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Posted August 15, 2016 - 07:57 PM

Worked on the Onan motor today it maybe spare parts 1st thing I did was drain the oil probably a quart to a 1/2 gal of water drained out before the oil did then filled it up with 20w 50 and trans fluid not going to run it with that just letting it soak till or even try to run it if so I will change it. I also filled the carb all the way to the top with 20w 50 it stayed their for long time I check it later it was gone but I got all the external I guess throttle and chock freed up ? didn't think with all the water that had probably went threw it a little oil couldn't hurt. 

 

then stripped it down so I could get to the heads easy didn't take much, as I was taking the heads off water started running out but when I got them off the cylinders were full of crud, water, looked like oil ? so I cleaned it out and done what EricFromPa said do I put a small round wire brush on a drill and brushed the crap out of it and still had to scrap and sand it the best I could still felt a little ruff to me should use a round brass wire brush but I used a steel one they were really bad the 

front cylinder was worst than the rear one, when I got done I cleaned them out real good and sprayed them with WD40 

 

The flywheel would move back and fourth very little probably where everything is wore out but anyway I took a pry bar and tried to work it back and fourth very gently and it moved a little and I keep spraying wd40 in the cylinders and it keep moving a little at a time then finally broke free but still wasn't real smooth spinning and as it broke free I noticed all four valves were open and more crud then more cleaning then used a small rubber mallet started lightly well not hard tapping on the front smaller valve on the front cylinder and it started moving a little  as I spun the motor over by hand spray, tap, spin finally started working on its own

 

I know when one is opening the other should be closing it was stuck pretty good so I cut a piece of wooden closet rod and set it against the valve and tapping it started moving then spray, tap, spin got it to work same thing on the rear cylinder.

 

I noticed while freeing the front valves that as the engine cycles either the front vales or the rear valves does not open or close depending on which cylinder is firing that set of valves are opening and closing so after I got the front valves working and as they were open and closing I sprayed the to rear valves then tapped on them till they were closed and keep spray, tap, spin the rear ones were easier to get unseized after all that engine spinning by hand it seem to help it and got a lot smoother I would spray both cylinders during this ordeal.

 

I am not a engine expert by no means not even close I just took some advice from a fellow GTtalk member and had at it and it worked out I hope I explained it right so if someone with minimal experience like myself could get one of these beast unseized, hopefully you want have to start with one that been soaking in water for who knows how ?

 

I think I probably I done all this for nothing cause with all that water in the engine it had to freeze and crack the block or brake something not to mention a engine full of rust, it didn't  leak out and I don't know why, It was good practice and it can be done. Really like the twin cylinder Onan its original and I really will hate to use another type single cylinder engine and repower the old suburban but may have to for now till I can maybe fix the onan and get all the extra parts that's missing just to get it running  when I can afford to there is a lot of good used single cylinder motors available   

 

    

 

  


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#14 oldcuz OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2016 - 12:37 AM

Been working on the hood, battery tray, and the flat metal piece that goes in front of the battery, hammer out some dents in the hood and put 2 coats of rust reformer on the top and bottom of the hood already looks 200% better than when I started even with rust pits, just got all the loose rust off the other 2 parts.

 

Decided to put a newer 6hp Tecumseh engine I have laying around to see if the transmission and rear end work like they suppose to, if all is good I'll leave it on there till I can get a larger engine, really like the 22hp V-Twin $700  predator engine its a lot of motor for the money but will probably go with the 13hp predator $350  

 

Either one of the engines would work ok I want the 22hp my wallet wants the 13hp and the wallet always wins ? can have the 13hp with the 20% discount and a extra 2yr warranty for around $300 its self contained don't have to worry with all the parts I need to just start the Onan plus the rusty fuel tank and still no guarantee its any good.

 

The 13hp is electric start and its new, but I'll cross that bridge when or if I get their, putting on the 6hp is the next project, in the mean time I'll keep on cleaning and killing rust, I know you cant wait so here is yet another photo before and after      

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#15 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2016 - 06:42 PM

That is an improvement, isn't it?





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