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Fly wheel final resting spot on 2414 ?


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#1 SNUFFY OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2016 - 07:35 AM

After spending about 3 hours and 10,000 lick with a 1 pound hammer getting the flywheel off the Kohler I was going to make sure I didn`t have that problem putting it back on. After much cleaning of what looked to be pristine shaft to start with and cleaning the inside of the pulley/flywheel....I could pretty much slide it nearly all the way on by hand.  I cleaned the key way in both pieces enough so the 1/4 in square key would slide easily in the groove. Assuming I needed to get it back to the original position on the shaft...the shiny part up to the tarnished exposed part of the shaft next to the engine.

I managed to slide it up to about 3/4 in of the original position by hand and with a little help from hammer got to about 1/4 in short of its original position on the shaft.. And now it just seems to have stopped altogether. After a few careful licks with the 3 lb hammer ... it seems to have stopped.

Part of me says to pull it back off...and dreading another back up and redo....part of me thinks it may be close enough. After scratchin my head and trying to calculate what would change in the final bolt up of the clutch/tranny bell housing to the flywheel housing...all I can come up would be the front most part of the shaft coming out the tranny. It is the shiny slick part about an 1 1/2 in long that rides in the bushing inside the flywheel. You can see on the shaft the part that was inside the oil seal and there is a little extra on the shaft before you step up to the splined full size part. I couldn`t find any dimension on the PK service manual about shaft. I hate to wrestle the engine /tranny together only to find out it is not right !

Any thoughts anybody ????

 

Oh yeah another thing....anybody know where the half moon key goes ???? Seems like I remember taking it out of something ??

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#2 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2016 - 11:34 AM

Should not have to use a hammer to put the flywheel back on.  Sounds like the key is sliding in the shaft to easy now and is wedging the flywheel before it gets home.  Pull the flywheel, take the key out, slide the flywheel on with the keyway lined up perfect.  May have to use the key for alignment only.  When the flywheel is on as far as it will go by hand, put in a NEW key.  Then lock the flywheel on with the nut or what ever is used on that particular engine to hold it in place.  I would bet your key is damaged so put in a new one and be sure.   I have never had to drive a flywheel on with a hammer.  A lot of pounding should not be required to remove a flywheel if using the right puller.  Sometimes some heat is needed but a heavy puller drew up good and tight, one lick with a big hammer will pop them loose.  Good luck with your project.


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#3 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2016 - 01:08 PM

Cheif, these are not flywheels like any other project. Real thin and pulleys on back side in center. Pullers just break off the thinner metals unless made to fit the centers, which one DOES have to make up or push off from pulley space to engine in back. Anyway YES, no pounding!  Maybe you are not aware of the snap ring inside the center hole?  It is behind the seal and pilot bearing in front. Only reason for it there is the ring hits the end of shaft when sliding on and that sets your position. SO, remove, clean up centers and shaft again, replace the snap ring with a new one, re-install.  That snap ring is a little hard to reach, but with right pliers will come out. Some wheels have TWO rings to set it in, check for which one it is in before removing, use same slot for new. ON that long key, if it slid back the slot in the crank is "tapered" or not same all the way back because of end of machining there. If it got pushed back into that taper, it is rising up out of groove and wedging then. New one would be good, or at least take a file and gently dress all sides to take off the knicks and marks in it to make it move somewhat easy in slot. Not REAL sloppy, just movable. Once this flywheel is on the shaft bumped up to the new snap ring, remove the one set screw that does not touch the key and take a 1/8" drill and make a divot in the crank there to let set-screw come down and center into it and kinda lock position in place. The other set screw just pushes on the key and will be fine. I'm assuming here you Knew of the set-screws in the pulley area??  Two of them. Use lock-tight on them and tighten good and solid.  The flywheel should be about even with the bellhousing opening, maybe with-in 1/4 " or so I think. NOT sticking out past the housing. This snap-ring in it is the positioner of the assembly to get proper clutch pedal movement. If all the other throw-out parts are not worn bad, this is the only adjustment on a PK clutch.  Time to take break, come back later and look it over again. Remove, clean-up and Snap-ring!


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#4 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2016 - 01:12 PM

Just a note here:  YOu can remove bellhousing to work on this position stuff, BUT, must have housing back on before putting flywheel back on for final fit. It won't fit over the flywheel later. You CAN leave it loose on there to be able to reach in and tighten set-screws and such, and slide up and bolt onto the crankcase after done with that. You can reach the four bolts into crankcase pretty easy with sockets and wrenches with flywheel on.



#5 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2016 - 03:52 PM

Anybody got pics of these oddball flywheels?



#6 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2016 - 06:33 PM

There are clutch pix on here I posted on other entrys. They show flywheel pretty sure. Not too old of posts in PK forum. From orig literature.
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#7 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2016 - 09:44 PM

As posted by gl best to remove the flywheel and check the snap ring close is not good on these clutches as there is no adjustment that can be made. Here's the clutch layout / set up

 

Attached File  Clutch 3.pdf   1.68MB   17 downloadsAttached File  Clutch 4.pdf   1.76MB   15 downloads


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#8 classic ONLINE  

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Posted August 10, 2016 - 01:16 AM

Here is something that needs to be mentioned regarding the flywheel pulley snap ring. In the early Economy tractors, only the flywheel pulley on the Wisconsin engines had the snap ring to act as a stop to correctly position the flywheel on the crankshaft. If you look at the schematics below, the snap ring, part number R-4, is used on Wisconsin engines only, and is noted on the parts list. These schematics are from 1958 and 1960. I have flywheels from 1956 and 1961 that came off of Briggs engines, and neither of them have a snap ring or snap ring groove. I would have to look at later parts lists that show the flywheel listed for the Kohler showing the snap ring for those engines.

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#9 SNUFFY OFFLINE  

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Posted August 10, 2016 - 09:55 AM

Thanks guys....I actually think that it has seated against the snap ring...I had my finger on the other end of the flywheel/shaft so I could feel if it was moving....and measuring every few licks off the inside rim of the flywheel housing.  I wasn`t pounding on it anyway......mainly making it vibrate...harmonics if you will.... If my measurements are right it will have a small amount of clearance between the ends of the crank and tranny shaft. The face of the flywheel is about and inch past the inside of the machined bore/face of the flywheel housing that the clutch housing bolts to ...

I`ve got several 3 way pullers and a couple of 2 way and I don`t see any way to use them on this set-up...I`m kinda like Grump....it has to be pushed off from the back side. I had pressure on the back side when I started to try to remove it and a Lot of pressure on opposite sides. I had to keep that pressure on til the very last lick when it finally came off the end of the shaft....never seen one hold on like that...Talk about a juggling act to find and keep all the stuff wedged in there. The thing is sitting really close to where it started.






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