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Homelite carb rebuild


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#1 dvto2 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2016 - 10:22 PM

I have a vintage Homelite garden tractor worth a 10 hp Briggs and Stratton engine that I picked up a few years ago. It had airways started right away, but since yesterday, I can't get it started. I see fuel dripping from the carborator. I want to open it up and take a look but I think I'll need gaskets. How can I tell what to get?

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#2 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2016 - 10:48 PM

Welcome to GTTalk.  Quite often I open a carb and am able to reuse the gaskets.  What I would suggest is open it up and see exactly what you are going to need instead of guessing before you open it up.  May need a float, needle valve you just don't know. That way you can order all your parts at the same time.  Please check our manuals section for any manuals on your tractor and engine.  Also check with our sponsors when you are ready for the parts.  They may be able to hook you up and save you some $$$.


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#3 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2016 - 12:18 AM

This carb kit.Briggs part #391071

http://www.ebay.com/...LIAAOSwwbdWOhWE

 

Don't want to use the main jet out of that kit on a 14,15 or 16.Will be fine for a 10 or 12.2 of the holes in the Main jet are actually to small for the 14-16.I bought 2 of these kits and had to enlarge the 2 small holes near the seat to get it to run without surging.

 

 

Wouldn't worry about the gasket so much.They usually stick to the top part of the carb.

Don't just take the 4 screws out if you take it apart.You will snap the main jet off or bend it and that's not good.

 

Make sure you have a Straight Narrow tipped flat head screwdriver Or better yet a screwdriver with interchangeable tips.Those are not tapered and made of good hardened steel.

 

Don't try to remove the jet with a regular straight screw driver.The taper on the driver will tear the aluminum threads out of where the Main needle valve is.

 

You can modify a regular screw driver by grinding the taper off of both sides.

 

Couple videos to watch.Check them both out they are both good.1st video is a little quiet but really good.

 

 


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#4 dvto2 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2016 - 05:15 AM

Thanks,guys!

#5 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2016 - 05:22 AM

Welcome to GTTalk !   Just wondering was the carb dripping fuel before you tried starting or were you cranking a lot then it started dripping ? , either way where was it dripping ?  



#6 dvto2 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2016 - 06:00 AM

I also need an air filter. Can I just order parts for an "older" 10 Briggs and Stratton?

#7 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2016 - 07:20 AM

Welcome to GTT. You can get the air filter and carb rebuilding kit from the same dealer. I have atleast 6 of those 10 hp B&S castiron engines. They are great engines but with age, most of them have leaking carbs. I put a fuel shutoff valve on the fuel line so that they don't drip when in storage. Good Luck, Rick



#8 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2016 - 07:36 AM

:welcometogttalk:



#9 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2016 - 08:50 AM

Every updraft I have ever done seems to be warped and leaks at the seam. And the seat for the emulsion tube never seats right and always leaks. Maybe it's just my experience.
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#10 dvto2 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2016 - 08:57 AM

Welcome to GTTalk ! Just wondering was the carb dripping fuel before you tried starting or were you cranking a lot then it started dripping ? , either way where was it dripping ?



#11 dvto2 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2016 - 08:58 AM

It drips after I crank it a lot. Seems to come from one of the screws on top but not sure if that's the only place.

#12 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2016 - 10:48 AM

Might have some water and crud in the bottom of the bowl.Hopefully you don't need a float.I had trouble finding the correct replacement float.Briggs opposed twin float Looks the same but the needle rest and pin location are slightly different.Atleast it was on the one I tried.

 

Once you have it apart grab the float and shake it.If you hear or feel anything inside the float sloshing around then the float is shot.

 

 

Every updraft I have ever done seems to be warped and leaks at the seam. And the seat for the emulsion tube never seats right and always leaks. Maybe it's just my experience.

 

I usually have to take a flat file and take some metal off around where the 4 screws are.Every one of mine were bent also.Take a flat file to it Just where the screws are you can get it sealed up pretty good.Won't be perfect but it helps alot.

 

Emulsion tube if you have problems with it seating you can use a small carbide tipped masonry drill bit or a semi flat tapered regular drill bit and use the tapered tips as a reamer to clean up the seat.Just enough to polish it a little.Try not to take much metal unless you have pitting.You can easily drill through and ruin the carb.



#13 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2016 - 10:51 AM

Don't know how good these are but those cheap knock off briggs carbs are back up on Ebay for $70 shipped

 

http://www.ebay.com/...t0AAOSw9N1VtvQ2



#14 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2016 - 07:35 PM

Don't know how good these are but those cheap knock off briggs carbs are back up on Ebay for $70 shipped
 
http://www.ebay.com/...t0AAOSw9N1VtvQ2

I have bought about 6 of those if you look you can find them for $40 all have worked great
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#15 dvto2 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 06, 2016 - 04:35 AM

I have bought about 6 of those if you look you can find them for $40 all have worked great


Where do I find these for $40?




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