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Should I buy 1250 with issues? Help!


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#1 Paulgo ONLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2016 - 08:01 PM

Hoping you folks will nitpick this and give me some advice. They had it listed last summer for $1000 with tiller and Brinly plow. I sent a message asking for more info and never got a reply. Saw it listed again 2 months ago for $800. Owner says it's a workhorse, but shakes real bad. Also has a hole in the bottom of the rear axle housing...

 

I told her that was out of my price range and wished her luck on her sale. Got a message today asking if I would be interested at $500 for tractor with tiller. For $575 she would include the plow and hitch they had made. Figured I better go take a closer look.

 

Tractor has been messed with. Muffler is wrong, but engine might be original. Can't make out the numbers on the plate. It, and everything else, has been repainted. Not the best job, and the colors are wrong, but it isn't peeling off. Seat is wrong. Rims and tires too. Fronts are 16x6.50-8 with minor weather checking. Rears are 26x12.00-12 and in good shape.

0802161827-00.jpg 0802161827-01.jpg 0802161831-01.jpg 0802161819-02.jpg 0802161831-00.jpg 0802161820-00.jpg 0802161820-01.jpg

 

Haven't heard engine run yet. Will have to take some trannie fluid, a drain pan, some fresh gas, and a battery. This is probably a good time to show you the hole, right? Was caused by tiller shaft rubbing on case. Was just a dribble until the husband cleaned it up for repair. Hit a gusher and tractor has been parked since...

0802161819-00.jpg

 

So... What are my repair options? Can I make a temporary plug with JB to test out the engine and trans? Will that axle housing then need to be removed/stripped for welding/brazing?

 

Here are the attachments: 0802161828-00.jpg 0802161836-00.jpg 0802161835-00.jpg

 

Was that the wrong tiller for this tractor or didn't they have it mounted right? What are your thoughts as to price? What else should I look at before making a decision? Thank you in advance.  Paul


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#2 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2016 - 08:11 PM

Driveshaft to the tiller rubbed the groove, they didn't put the both sets of pins in the rear axle attachment mounting ears allowing it to ride up and thus the damage.
It can be welded easily enough, no pressure on the lubrication system back there , I'd try JB or similar if welding isn't an option. They best way (IMO) would be removing the rear end housing complete, flipping it over allowing any residual fluid to drain away from the area to be repaired that would help ensure a successful repair.It wouldn't need to be stripped down I'd mig weld it shut. Axle housing sides show up for sale from time to time, check with our sponsors .If it was operated with no fluid in the rear for any length of time several things could be wrong. IMO your looking at a part machine price

Edited by WrenchinOnIt, August 02, 2016 - 08:47 PM.

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#3 JBRamsey OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2016 - 08:35 PM

I'm not a fan of JB Weld. I would do something else for a permanent repair. Is there enough material to drill out the hole and tap it for a pipe plug? It looks like it's too thin at the bottom of the hole. You could find a good welder that knows how to truly weld cast and have it welded up.

I have no idea what it would be worth, but I don't think I'd go anywhere near it for 500. There's a reason no one has bought it yet. They know that. That's why they dropped their price by half in a few months.

I wouldn't spend any of my money on it at their place. If you make it run and drive, they won't want to negotiate. If you plug the hole for them, you've just made it harder on the next guy that comes by. Show up with a trailer, a little bit of money and a friend whose job is to look at one end while you look at another and he mumbles "oh man" a lot. And to say let's leave without the tractor.

If you're in love with it, buy it cheap enough so that if its not worth it to you to repair, you can part it out and move on. That's where the buddy mumbling comes in to play.

Remember she came to you this time. I'd shoot for a 100. Or less.

Good luck. Have fun.
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#4 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2016 - 08:45 PM

As a temporary repair you could use a large tire patch or old piece of inner tube against a short piece of 2x4 shaped to the contour of the wear pattern and slightly larger than the hole held on with a couple of large diameter hose clamps to get it to hold oil while you test it out - that way you can easily remove it to repair it properly as opposed to JB weld which will take a bit of time to cure.  Use a bottle jack to hold the tire patch and block of wood in position while you tighten up the clamps.  All it has to do is seal it so it doesn't leak from gravity as I do not believe ther is any pressure force from inside the axle.  As long as you get the rubber against the hole it should seal well enough for a test,  Another option might be a small stopper for a thermos, a small rubber expansion plug they use for cars for frost plug holes or drive a short piece of a wooden dowel into the hole.  Just suggestions so you can put fluid in it to test it. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Rear Axle Hole Quick Fix.jpg

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#5 LPBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2016 - 08:46 PM

I agree that you need to get the price down as far as possible. Yes, the rear can be repaired, or that axle housing replaced with one from a parts machine. I am thinking that the vibration might be one or both of the universal joints in the driveshaft, or the hydro input shaft is loose (bad bearing?) In any event, I would not do any repairs on the tractor, even temporary, before you agree to buy it. To get the trans to hold fluid, you could just take a piece of old inner tube and a big hose clamp to get it to hold just long enough to check it out.


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#6 ClassicBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2016 - 08:58 PM

I agree with others above. This one I'd regard as a parts machine and hope for the best. Just too much unknown to risk paying a premium. Likely bad u-joints in the driveshaft, possibly bad motor mounts as well. All of this can lead to worn end yoke or worn hydro input shaft. WrenchinOnIt is spot on about the housing wear. It makes quite a bit of noise when a tiller driveshaft is hitting the axle housing. The scary part is they continued to run it for a long time that way obviously to cause that much wear in the housing. That's not wear and tear, that's abuse and neglect. Makes you wonder what else was neglected.
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#7 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2016 - 09:01 PM

Get the price down as low as possible for a parts machine.  The tiller and plow are worth a couple hundred easy enough.  That hole can be fixed easy and cheap enough with JB weld.  But you have to have the area CLEAN before you put it on and leave it sit for a few days to set up good.  Tires look real good.  Can always change the color if you don't like it.  Chances are your not buying a wanna be show machine but a work tractor.  They don't care what color they are.


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#8 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2016 - 09:16 PM

A 2 wheel drive is worth less with traction tires on the front.  :wallbanging:  At least to me it is cause I'd have to buy other tires and change them out. 

I'd have to do that before the tranny repair.   


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#9 secondtry OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2016 - 09:51 PM

 The hole in the housing appears to have been ground or rotary filed out. I can think of no way to do that without grit and filings entering the housing. I'm hearing that this is a hydro. So it seems to me that running the machine at all before a transaxle tear down and flush is asking fore trouble. Unless you are buying for entertainment value I would keep looking. Making a good working tractor out of that will definitely keep you entertained for some time. If you don't spend the time and money up front you will spend it later on repairs.  Don


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#10 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2016 - 12:44 AM

$200+ worth of rear tires there.Looks like 26x12-12 ITP Mud Light XL

 

Accually $575 is reasonable if you add up some numbers on the stuff.Plow $100-$150? large frame Tiller $200-$250 around here and the tires at $200-$250 shipped on Ebay.

 

 

If you are buying it to use I can see why that might seem high knowing that the tractor needs work.If the engine runs good I think it would be a good deal.

 

Mention that you might have to replace the whole transaxle and driveshaft assembly.I bet you'll get a better price on it. 


Edited by EricFromPa, August 03, 2016 - 12:48 AM.

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#11 wilberj ONLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2016 - 05:44 AM

Looks like less then $250 to me for a none working 1250.  


Edited by wilberj, August 03, 2016 - 05:46 AM.

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#12 Husky ONLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2016 - 06:21 AM

I would call it a parts tractor and even at that  you don't know if the engine or hydro is any good. If you need chassis parts then I'd buy it for $200 for chassis parts. Sorry it is not such a great end to this one.


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#13 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2016 - 06:54 AM

Pic 1 & 7 looks to me like angle iron has been added to the frame below the motor, frame rails cracked? Someone thinking they needed strengthened? More detractors from asking price IMO.
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#14 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2016 - 06:59 AM

A 2 wheel drive is worth less with traction tires on the front.  :wallbanging:  At least to me it is cause I'd have to buy other tires and change them out. 

I'd have to do that before the tranny repair.   

Hay Kris, what have you got against traction tires on the front?  Need some bite there too for turning you know. :poke:    :rolling:   :wave:


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#15 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2016 - 10:57 AM

[1] it looks out of place

[2] ribs bite when turning


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