54 replies to this topic

[dtsh]

I still haven't gotten around to fixing shafts. Disassembled the front axle from the support and noticed the front axle pivot/pin (1713383) is also worn at both ends. I'm not entirely sure this is even worth fixing, but while I'm still mulling over how/if to repair the other shafts I may consider tossing this onto the stack as well.

 

The pin isn't terribly worn, the main body measures 0.625" and the most worn spot is 0.618". In this application, I'm not sure 0.007" of wear over 50 years is a problem that needs fixing. Opinions?

 

 

 

It's pretty likely that the original Bolens ID sticker will get destroyed soon, so I'm archiving it here.

Model 172-01, No 32421

 

 

Edit: Is it just me, or does Bolens have some of the worst model/serial tags?

Edited by dtsh, July 12, 2017 - 01:22 PM.

[Bolens 1000]

I honestly dont know what they were thinking mid 60's to 70's on the ID decals, They finally started metal stamped tags again mid 70's

 

I have seen some guys have new pins machined down and bronze bushings pressed into the axle on ones that were really worn.

[Dave in NY]

I have replaced two pins with what is referred to at my place of work as drill-rod. Tightened things up nicely. Several years ago I had a very worn axle bored on the pivot and for the spindles and pressed in bronze bushings. Don't own that one anymore but it's still going just fine.

[dtsh]

I honestly dont know what they were thinking mid 60's to 70's on the ID decals, They finally started metal stamped tags again mid 70's

 

I have seen some guys have new pins machined down and bronze bushings pressed into the axle on ones that were really worn.

 

I suppose they're better than nothing, but only slightly. I guess it doesn't matter at all now since I sanded it off today!

The axle itself is still quite round, the largest deviation I could find was 0.005, with the average more around 0.003 so I don't think there's any need for a bushing in here, but I'm betting there will be when I get to the spindles.

 

 

I have replaced two pins with what is referred to at my place of work as drill-rod. Tightened things up nicely. Several years ago I had a very worn axle bored on the pivot and for the spindles and pressed in bronze bushings. Don't own that one anymore but it's still going just fine.

 

I don't have any drill-rod here that size in my stash. I think I'm not going to bother fixing the axle at this time, maybe in some other decade when it's bad enough to make fixing worthwhile.

 

 

As for the cross shaft, I don't think JB Weld is going to cut it, or rather, I suspect JB Weld rubbing against the bronze bushing will get worn down very quickly. I may revisit that with some other shafts, but I think it's not viable with the cross shaft. I think I'm going to try welding it up and machining it back down, if I screw it up I can always machine a new one or go fetch the 650 parts machine sooner than planned.

 

I did work on the tractor today at least, I drove out the bronze bushings in the mounting plate assembly and from the clutch pedal. The left bushing looked pretty good, especially compared to the right, and the one in the pedal was worn quite oblong.

 

A few more days of this and I should be able to start reassembling it.

 

Edit:

I forgot to mention I also filled in a wear/gouge in the mounting plate assembly caused by the clutch rod hitting it. Filled in with mig wire and ground it down, then filed it smooth. The pictures unfortunately didn't turn out.

Edited by dtsh, July 13, 2017 - 12:04 AM.

[dtsh]

The bushings for the cross shaft and clutch pedal arrived over the weekend, but I haven't gotten much done recently.

 

I started working on the cross shaft, but I found the mig wire a bit too much for the HSS lathe bits so I went into town to get some carbide bits. After putzing around mowing and typical weekend work, I got back to the shaft and decided there was too much slop in the cross slide on my lathe, a 1903 Seneca Falls Star 10"; it's kinda expected that there's a bit more wear than in a nice new lathe. After tearing into it, tightening the gibs and pulling out as much slack as I could, there was still too much slop in the cross slide. I pulled the apron off the lathe to get good access to the screw and found the excess wear at one of the cross slide screw mounts. With the lathe itself out of commission, I grabbed a small washer to turn into a shim, slapped it in a vise to drill it out larger, then machined it by hand with my jeweler's files to smooth it out, thin it out, and cut a keyway into it. That took up the slack nicely, but by then it was way too late to keep working, so I put the lathe back together and will return to the shaft as I get time.

 

 

For those of you who like a little gear porn, here's a shot of the inside of the apron.

Edited by dtsh, July 17, 2017 - 10:48 AM.

[dtsh]

The cross shaft, now repaired.

 

 

I began reassembling the tractor today. I had considered stripping and repainting the front axle and tansmission, but being cast iron and this being the tractor I use for work and pasture mowing, I decided to not bother with it at this time. I do still need to get the front tires off and check to see how bad the front spindles are, but for now it's going back together.

[dtsh]

Rolling frame being inspected by two of my QC engineers.

 

[29 Chev]

Looks to be cleaning up nice - hope your inspectors passed your work. 

[dtsh]

No pictures today.

 

When was checking the front spindles, I noticed a lot of slack in the right-hand steering lever, seems at some point the rollpin broke and someone jammed a nail into the rollpin in an attempt to fix it. I drove the broken rollpin out and replaced it with a new one.

[dtsh]

Found the front axle was wobbly. Being a tube frame I presumed the tubes squashed some, but appear to be OK. Nevertheless, I fabricated some tube supports, removed the front axle, slipped the supports in and reassembled it all. Fixed well enough now I can tighten it down without worry of crushing the tubes.