I had missed a part, the brake lining 1713777, so that will come later while I wait for the part to arrive.
Today's work on it involved replacing the drive bearing(109) right behind the main drive pulley(112).
I loosened the two set screws holding the pulley onto the driveshaft and even with a bit of heat it didn't want to come off so rather than fight with it I disconnected the bearing support(110) bracket to slide the entire assembly out so I could work on it at the bench. I had to remove the PTO housing as well to get the driveshaft out, but that's a simple matter of removing 3 bolts.
At the bench, I used heat and an old socket just slightly smaller than the shaft as a punch to drive the shaft out of the pulley. Once the two were separate, it was easy to remove the 3 bolts holding the bearing flange together and disassemble.
It was relatively easy to remove the setscrew on the adapter bearing collar and twist it off the bearing, then drive the bearing off the shaft. The new bearing came with a new 2 hole flange, but the bolt holes are not the same so I reused the original 3 hole Fafnir flange with the new bearing.
For anyone who hasn't ever handled this type of bearing before, the inner race of the bearing is longer than the outer race and a separate collar binds it to the shaft. The collar and the inner race are slightly oblong, so it's a matter of lining them up then twisting the collar to lock it into place. When you do so, try to ensure you're binding it in the direction of spin so it won't work loose under load.
If you look closely at the collar and inner race, you'll see they are really oblong, which is what helps them bind to the shaft.
Edited by dtsh, June 25, 2017 - 12:13 AM.