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Bolens Husky 750 - Transmission


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#16 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2017 - 08:09 PM

Application of a little heat, penetrating oil, and profanity got the brake drum off off the shaft, which allowed me to get the input shaft out. This has me thinking I might just tear it all down to clean it out. It seems the bearings I've handled aren't in great shape so I can only guess there's fragments in just about everything.

 

 

New shaft next to the old one:

IMG_20170521_164345.jpg

 

 

I had a little difficulty getting the snapring off the back of the cluster, but once I realized it was there it wasn't especially difficult.IMG_20170521_164608.jpg

 

At a minimum, it's pretty certain I will have to replace the seal behind the brake drum as that appears to have been leaking even before heat was applied.

 

Running parts list:

  5/8" snapring (1118809)

  1891820 - worm gear oil seal


Edited by dtsh, May 21, 2017 - 09:37 PM.

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#17 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 22, 2017 - 07:44 AM

Glad to hear you got it apart.  I wonder if the worn gear on the old shaft could be repaired by using an off the shelf gear and welding it or pressing it onto the shaft in a similar manner to the way I repaired the 15 tooth gear in my 1050 - http://gardentractor...e-transmission/ ?


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#18 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted May 22, 2017 - 08:52 AM

I had considered that and may look into it eventually, but I sourced a NOS replacement rather than gamble on my ability to cobbler together a fix.

 

Originally I hadn't intended to strip the whole thing down, but after seeing how the metal fragments have gotten everywhere in the case I don't think I can get away with that. Did you have any difficulty finding seals and bearings? My biggest fear is tearing into it and finding I can't put it back together due to a lack of parts.


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#19 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 22, 2017 - 09:20 AM

I was able to source any bearings and seals I needed through an auto parts store.  I am not sure if the three speed takes the same or different sizes - you could check the parts manual to see if they are the same part numbers or different.  I would imagine Bolens Parts or Ricks should be able to help you out if you can't find them locally.


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#20 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 22, 2017 - 10:04 AM

Looks like your making good progress!

If you cant find the stuff local I have the bearings snap rings seals instock


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#21 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2017 - 12:24 AM

As I was tearing it down, I discovered that the left outer axle seal was shot and leaking. I was expecting to replace all the seals and it's not a surprise, but I wasn't aware it was leaking beforehand. Once I had the wheels off and could see clearly it was apparent that it's been leaking.

 

 

All removed parts have been bagged and tagged, waiting to be cleaned and inspected.

 

All the shafts, gears, and rods came out without any problem. Only the axle shaft, bevel gear, and friends remain to be removed. I don't have a drift punch long enough to reach the drive pin that holds it all in place; another item for the shopping list. I cleaned out a lot of the metal fragments earlier, but you can still see a lot of it left. I am considering tossing in a neodymium magnet in when I put it all back together to help catch fragments in the future. I don't intend to abuse it as it obviously had been, but it may save the next guy a little work.

 

IMG_20170526_233623.jpg

 

It came apart much easier than I expected. There were two bronze washers, one on each axle which I wasn't expecting as the parts manual calls them thrust bearings (1711786), which I suppose they are but it wasn't what I had in mind.

 

The largest of the gears on the worm shaft, labeled as "Gear - 38T" (1713409) has some wear on one edge of the teeth, but it doesn't look severe.


Edited by dtsh, May 27, 2017 - 12:31 AM.

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#22 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2017 - 08:03 PM

I am having difficulty removing the drive pin in the axle; I've tried driving it out and I can't seem to get any movement on it at all. I am afraid that I will mushroom the pin making removal impossible.

 

Any advice from those who've removed one of these?


Edited by dtsh, May 29, 2017 - 08:04 PM.

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#23 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2017 - 08:43 PM

I have never removed that roll pin but if it is the one showing in the above picture beside the collar it is a solid 3/16" diameter pin according to the parts manual part # 1713432 rather than a regular split pin style and is the same one that is used in the driveshaft on a 1050 that goes against the clutch spring and I would imagine they are a press fit.  If you can slide the shaft towards the right side a bit away from the drive hub the shaft would be supported better in the right side bushing and you might be able to use a blunt driver in an air chisel to start it moving.  The pin may be mushroomed slightly on the side it was driven in from and as a result it may only want to move one way.  If you can determine which side it was driven in from you could try removing it by driving on the other end with a large diameter piece of round steel that is flat on the ends and a big ball peen hammer or small sledge if you do not have an air chisel.  Make sure that you hold the steel tight against the roll pin as you hit the steel and having the axle shaft as close as you can to the right side should minimize the shaft wanting to bounce allowing the force to be directed on the roll pin - make sure that the roll pin will clear the case on the other side.  Another option might be to grind the pin flush with the shaft and remove it after you take the axle out and then get a new pin - looks like the size is .188" x 1.25 according to this site http://oldmowerparts...y-P2339951.aspx .  These are only suggestions to consider if someone else does not post a better solution. 


Edited by 29 Chev, May 29, 2017 - 08:44 PM.

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#24 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2017 - 08:57 PM

Just had a look at the Tube Frame Repair manual and it shows the axle having a shoulder rather than a pin in that location and makes no mention of removing a pin that I can see - are you sure that the axle with the pin installed will not fit through the right side bushing?   


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#25 Cnc OFFLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2017 - 11:15 PM

You could try to heat the shaft expanding it and the hole, wrap it in rags and give the press pin a good shot of a freeze spray to drop the temp of the pin and shrink it enough to tap it out. On bigger applications I have used CO2 fire extinguishers or dry ice, they do sell little aerosol cans that can drop the temp rapidly and failing finding those, even a good long shot of compressed air keyboard cleaner may be enough to drop the temp of the pin and use less brut force.
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#26 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2017 - 03:11 PM

I'm just waiting on the parts to arrive to start putting the transmission back together, in the interim I hope to tackle the cowl disassembly and some of the rewiring.


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#27 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2017 - 05:33 PM

Did you get the drive pin out?


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#28 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2017 - 09:32 PM

Did you get the drive pin out?

 

Not yet, I've not had the time to heat and beat it yet and I'm hopeful that will work, it usually does.

If I can't get it out I'm considering trying to grind it, but I'm worried that with the very tight spaces I'll just mangle things up worse. I don't want to just punt on it, but that may be wiser than attempting to grind it out.

 

I've got a few days before the parts arrive and should be able to get to it by then.


Edited by dtsh, June 07, 2017 - 09:34 PM.

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#29 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2017 - 08:01 PM

I decided to not move gravel today and instead work on the transmission.

 

I got out my torch and heated one side of the axle shaft next to the pin and gave the punch several good whacks, which moved it slightly. Thus enouraged, I continued to heat and beat and soon the pin popped free into the bottom of the casing. I was worried about being able to get enough heat on the axle and not too much, but I'm glad I did as the solid drive pin came out much easier with heat.

 

 

I got things a bit mixed up after that as I tried to drive the axle through the gears, out the left side. It seemed logical considering the pin was on the right side, so obviously once it was out the axle would go that way, but after an inch or so the assembly bound up and there wasn't enough room to get the key out of the drive hub/axle making my folly apparent. I started driving it out the other way using a wood scrap on the axle to protect it and striking the wood, slowly driving it out the right side until the square key was free and I could pry it out.

 

IMG_20170609_184333.jpg

 

Once that was out, it took less effort to keep driving it out the right.

 

IMG_20170609_184327.jpg

 

The assembly then easily slid out the bottom.

 

IMG_20170609_185233.jpg

 

Lastly, a closeup of the drive pin which gave me so much trouble.

 

IMG_20170609_185428.jpg

 

 

 

 

A big thank you to all who've helped me get this far, it is much appreciated.

 

I have to do some cleanup and inspection,  then when the parts arrive (and day now) I should be ready to start putting it back together.


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#30 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2017 - 08:23 PM

Just had a look at the Tube Frame Repair manual and it shows the axle having a shoulder rather than a pin in that location and makes no mention of removing a pin that I can see - are you sure that the axle with the pin installed will not fit through the right side bushing?   

 

I'd thought I had replied to this earlier, that's what I get for thinking!

 

The pin is too long to clear the bronze bearing (1185300), though now that it's out it does look like it would just *barely* clear the opening in the casing if one wanted to drive out the bronze bearing with it.


Edited by dtsh, June 09, 2017 - 08:24 PM.

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