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Bolens Husky 750 - Transmission


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#1 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2016 - 09:21 PM

Ever have one of those days?

 

This all started with an oil leak, http://gardentractor...y-750-oil-leak/

 

So I bought what was needed to patch it back up and that's taken care of. While I was waiting on parts, I started looking at a leak in the transmission. So I started tearing into that....take it all apart, pop the cover off and gawk at the gasket which was shriveled up like Otzi the iceman. A nice easy fix, don't really even need to order anything as I've got gasket material, yay! I've been curious to see what I'd find in here; I've looked at the parts list, service manual, and a few threads so I have an idea of what to expect...

 

It looks mostly good, all except the gear on the input shaft which has been ground down significantly, that explains the hard shifting. The brake shoe is worn down considerably leading to what I can only presume was the PO gleefully grinding gears.

 

750_trans.jpg

 

I'm not adverse to tearing into it farther, I like tinkering and learning new things and it's been fun thus far. At minimum I think I'll need, input shaft, oil seal, and likely bearings, but I am unsure if this is worth it as I suspect I can replace the entire tractor for less than the cost of parts. At worst, I'll just seal it back up and use it until it quits then part out what's left.

 

Minimum parts list:

input shaft  1713442

Oil seal  1815352

Brake shoe lining 1713777 + 1713751

 

Likely extras:

Ball bearing (front) 1104440

Needle bearing (rear) 1185280

 

Other things that also need fixing (that I know of):

Drive bearing 1800757

 

Anyone else replaced this shaft before? I am curious to hear about what all will be involved in removing/replacing it, the manual makes it look relatively straightforward.


Edited by dtsh, August 01, 2016 - 09:27 PM.

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#2 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2016 - 09:41 PM

Think I would find a cheap parts tractor or another rear end and use what you need.



#3 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2016 - 09:57 PM

Easier said than done! I've been looking for a donor but haven't found one yet, I suppose in time.



#4 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2016 - 07:06 AM

Sent you a PM.



#5 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2016 - 02:28 AM

For the time being, I have reassembled the 750. The only thing that has changed is my knowledge that 1st gear is nearly destroyed so I'll continue to operate it, being cautious of 1st gear, until I can find either a replacement 3 speed transmission or the input shaft at a reasonable price.


Edited by dtsh, August 05, 2016 - 02:29 AM.


#6 blackjackjakexxix OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2016 - 04:55 PM

Sent you a pm

#7 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted January 31, 2017 - 02:36 PM

I'm still in need of the transmission input shaft for this, Bolens part # 1713224

 

If you've got one, new, used, or less abused than the one in the pic above I'd love to hear from you.



#8 ClassicBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted January 31, 2017 - 02:51 PM

I have this input shaft available new. I'll send you a PM.  


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#9 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2017 - 11:19 AM

I have this input shaft available new. I'll send you a PM.  

 

Thanks, sadly it'll be a little while before this task comes off my stack as it's in use plowing the drive until spring.

 

 

I find it entertaining how many people think 7HP isn't enough to plow a drive, till a garden, or any of the other tasks which it does with no problem.


Edited by dtsh, February 02, 2017 - 11:21 AM.

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#10 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2017 - 01:59 PM

As an update...

 

I've got the shaft, now to gather a few more parts. I figure while I've got it torn apart I might as well replace some bearings and other items.as I'll be touching them for this anyhow.


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#11 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2017 - 09:23 PM

As a short synopsis, I intend to replace the transmission input shaft as it is severely worn. While I have it apart, I want to replace the drive bearings and the brake shoe while I'm at it.

 

I try to have only one machine in a non-working state at a time, so this had to wait until I finished replacing some seals in the hydro in the H-16. Sorry for the low quality of the images, but the process has finally begun!

 

I put the tractor on some jackstands, removed the seat and fender pan, then wiggled the transmission free with a floorjack under it for support.

 

IMG_20170516_202942.jpg

 

IMG_20170516_202909.jpg

 

Just as with the driveshaft connected to the hydro on my H-16, I loosened the driveshaft at the shaft coupler only to find I didn't need to do so as the driveshaft slides over the transmission input shaft and is held in place with a square key and it readily fell off once I pulled them apart.....just like with the H-16. You'd think I'd learn!

 

IMG_20170516_202831.jpg

 

Other projects demand my time so it will be an hour here and there as I pick it apart then put it back together.

 

If you've done this work before and have suggestions, kindly speak up!


Edited by dtsh, May 16, 2017 - 09:25 PM.

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#12 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2017 - 12:03 PM

If you have an engine stand you could mount the transmission on it the same way I did here - http://gardentractor...-project/page-2 in post #17.  I find it easier working on the transmission when it can turned and is off the floor.  The thread also  has information on taking apart the transmission in a 1053 which is similar other than it is a 6 speed.  There is information on the 3 speed in the tube frame service manual in the manuals section.



#13 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2017 - 10:48 PM

If you have an engine stand you could mount the transmission on it the same way I did here - http://gardentractor...-project/page-2 in post #17.  I find it easier working on the transmission when it can turned and is off the floor.  The thread also  has information on taking apart the transmission in a 1053 which is similar other than it is a 6 speed.  There is information on the 3 speed in the tube frame service manual in the manuals section.

 

I've been watching that thread as it unfolds and enjoying it, an engine stand is on my list of things to get. I should have enough materials around to make a mounting bracket similar to yours.

 

 

My progress today was stopped by realizing I need to remove the brake drum, which looks like I will need to drive out a small rollpin. I have to add some punches to my shopping list as well.

 

I did get a little bit accomplished with only minor breakage.

 

The cheap set of snapring pliers I have didn't have small enough pins, so I had to file down one set to make them fit the first ring. After doing so it came off without issue.

 

IMG_20170517_201309_1.jpg

 

The seal came out easy enough, which first made me think I might need to remove the brake drum.

 

IMG_20170517_212019.jpg

 

Then out came the second, larger snapring. This was only problematic due to the snapring pliers being so cheap that they would flex and twist, letting the ring go; persistence paid off though. A better set of snapring pliers is also on my list, recommendations?

 

IMG_20170517_212903.jpg

 

The next snapring was another small one, this one had obviously been exposed to moisture and it came out in pieces. I'll need a replacement before reassembly, the parts list has it as 1118809.

 

IMG_20170517_213307_1.jpg

 

Then I reached the stopping point due to the bearing being blocked by the brake drum.

 

IMG_20170517_213701.jpg

 

Until I get the drum off, this stage is on hold.

 

Edit: I see on review of 29 Chev's thread that the rollpin and gear puller is exactly what I need to do. Thanks!


Edited by dtsh, May 17, 2017 - 10:57 PM.


#14 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2017 - 07:21 AM

Make sure you support the shaft as you are driving the roll pin out or you may bend or break the shaft.  Sometimes the brake drums are rusted on to the shaft and require heating the brake drum while using a good quality puller to get the brake drum to move.  Be careful if you are heating it that you do not start any fires as there looks to be grease build up on your transmission and make sure you wear safety glasses to protect your eyes - safety first.  Good luck with removing the drum.



#15 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2017 - 09:01 PM


Be careful if you are heating it that you do not start any fires as there looks to be grease build up on your transmission and make sure you wear safety glasses to protect your eyes - safety first.

 

Always, I keep a charged fire extinguisher handy at all times I'm using a smoke wrench; much cheaper than replacing cars, buildings, and toys. As for safety glasses, eyeballs are even harder to replace.

 

 

Ran out of oxygen trying to heat up the drum for the fourth time. It is being stubborn after 50 years of being mated together and refusing to let go.

Other work to do, it can sit and soak in penetrating oil until I get into town for more more oxy.


Edited by dtsh, May 19, 2017 - 09:04 PM.





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