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Welding Help Needed


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#1 bbuckler OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2016 - 07:05 PM

My dad broke a piece on his wheel lift and I had to welded so he could keep towing. My welds are holding but they don't look to good. The welds on the trailer I just did looks pretty good. Can some will tell me what I might be doing wrong ? I'm using a HF 70 amp Stick Welder with 6013 rods and power on max. 

 

Weld on the wheellift 

 

13906921_1157327004324302_6711260288612774771_n.jpg  

 

Weld on the trailer 

 

13782216_1152482324808770_5289203551582406834_n.jpg


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#2 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2016 - 07:21 PM

The pics won't enlarge, so it's hard to see what happened on the wheel lift weld.  Looks like either not enough amperage, or there is a coating messing with the weld.  Is this metal galvanized?  It sure appears to be. The zinc will screw with welds badly, plus the fumes given off is dangerous.  Anything you have welds act like this, give it a good grinding to clear the surface of any coating, then reweld.


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#3 bbuckler OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2016 - 07:27 PM

The pics won't enlarge, so it's hard to see what happened on the wheel lift weld.  Looks like either not enough amperage, or there is a coating messing with the weld.  Is this metal galvanized?  It sure appears to be. The zinc will screw with welds badly, plus the fumes given off is dangerous.  Anything you have welds act like this, give it a good grinding to clear the surface of any coating, then reweld.

The wheellift isn't but the trailer was galvanized not my idea the welded but my uncle kept on until I did. My sister's boyfriend said the rods was too small but I do need a welder with more amperage. 



#4 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2016 - 07:38 PM

Yup you need a welder that puts out more amps. And to grind out all of your welds so that you get max penetration of the weld rod into the parent metal.
Some people are just in love with HF but this is a case where their stuff just isn't heavy enough.
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#5 Bill 76 ONLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2016 - 07:43 PM

You beat me to it dodge trucker---

That looks like a cold weld to me --how thick is the steel your welding? 70 amps won't do much 


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#6 bbuckler OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2016 - 07:44 PM

Yup you need a welder that puts out more amps. And to grind out all of your welds so that you get max penetration of the weld rod into the parent metal.
Some people are just in love with HF but this is a case where their stuff just isn't heavy enough.

Plan is to buy a better one just waiting for a good paying repair to come in probably won't happen until spring. 



#7 bbuckler OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2016 - 07:50 PM

You beat me to it dodge trucker---

That looks like a cold weld to me --how thick is the steel your welding? 70 amps won't do much 

3/4 inch



#8 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2016 - 07:57 PM

As stated the galvanizing of the material has flowed into your weld causing porosity (voids) and the slag inclusion which causes the voids, simply put has the arc of your electrode burns through the galvanizing it flows into your welding puddle and disrupts it and actually acts as a flux wanting to cool your puddle and causes arc disruption allowing the flux from your 6013 rod to cool and cover your puddle prematurely. Again as stated grind the galvanizing off anytime you weld anything the cleaner the metal the more quality of a weld you will produce, arc welding is the most forgiving and a high penetrating rod like 6010 will burn thru dirty metal, rust, scaling and galvanizing, however it is runs "hot" and a more experienced welder is needed, often when welding out in the field on the jobsite we run a root pass of 6010 , which will burn the impurities out clean it, grind it if needed to help insure clean cover passes with 7018. I always employ a box fan when arc welding and blow the fumes off me.
More capacity of your power source will allow you to weld thicker metals, but again as pointed out previously grind your metal clean, if it's heavily galvanized you'll know you've hit base metal when sparks fly, grinding galvanizing just shoots dust till you hit base metal


As I read your latest reply, 70amps will not properly penetrate 3/4"

Edited by WrenchinOnIt, July 30, 2016 - 08:01 PM.

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#9 bbuckler OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2016 - 08:04 PM

As stated the galvanizing of the material has flowed into your weld causing porosity (voids) and the slag inclusion which causes the voids, simply put has the arc of your electrode burns through the galvanizing it flows into your welding puddle and disrupts it and actually acts as a flux wanting to cool your puddle and causes arc disruption allowing the flux from your 6013 rod to cool and cover your puddle prematurely. Again as stated grind the galvanizing off anytime you weld anything the cleaner the metal the more quality of a weld you will produce, arc welding is the most forgiving and a high penetrating rod like 6010 will burn thru dirty metal, rust, scaling and galvanizing, however it is runs "hot" and a more experienced welder is needed, often when welding out in the field on the jobsite we run a root pass of 6010 , which will burn the impurities out clean it, grind it if needed to help insure clean cover passes with 7018. I always employ a box fan when arc welding and blow the fumes off me.
More capacity of your power source will allow you to weld thicker metals, but again as pointed out previously grind your metal clean, if it's heavily galvanized you'll know you've hit base metal when sparks fly, grinding galvanizing just shoots dust till you hit base metal


As I read your latest reply, 70amps will not properly penetrate 3/4"

I never known of a wrecker bed to be galvanized. I was weld the pin so it would fall out no more. I least hope it hold until he can get to work monday and they can have their guy come in and weld it. 


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#10 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2016 - 08:10 PM

And to add to the comments...."Practice makes perfect"!


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#11 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2016 - 08:11 PM

Sometimes stop-gap measures aren't pretty it functional.
You know the welder isn't big enough and there may be contaminants. As long as it'll hold to get by and no one gets hurt, that's the big thing.
In this situation, if you have a smaller welding rig and a bigger torch, maybe oxy-acetylene torch welding?
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#12 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2016 - 08:17 PM

Okay misread your post, your trailer was galvanized, again as stated your machine lacks the umph to get proper penetration, the properties that your experiencing are the same, slag inclusion and porosity. Your trailer weld looks good. IMO 6013 isn't designed for heavy steel.
My employer service calls Chevron and Miller industries they have a whole line of galvanized roll backs and wreckers
http://www.millerind.com/
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#13 bbuckler OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2016 - 08:24 PM

Okay misread your post, your trailer was galvanized, again as stated your machine lacks the umph to get proper penetration, the properties that your experiencing are the same, slag inclusion and porosity. Your trailer weld looks good. IMO 6013 isn't designed for heavy steel.
My employer service calls Chevron and Miller industries they have a whole line of galvanized roll backs and wreckers
http://www.millerind.com/

My dad said he think it a dynamic. So you probably know the pin I'm talking about. My dad said it had a clip in there but that it was common for them to fall out and most people weld them anyways. 



#14 bbuckler OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2016 - 06:48 PM

I have been looking at welders. What about this one ? 

https://www.amazon.c...ords=arc welder


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#15 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2016 - 10:35 AM

Are you wanting stick or mig?


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