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Starter solenoid


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#1 Phluphy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2016 - 03:40 PM

Running out of options. How do I check for a bad starter solenoid on a 917.255919 18hp B&S? I've replaced the main relay (OPR), checked the white wire from switch for continuity and have to short across main terminals on solenoid to crank engine, trying with key switch is doing nothing. This is what has me wondering if it's not the solenoid.

After receiving a wrong switch for PTO, I by-passed the safety on that circuit thus I believe the solenoid should function.

Suggestions please.

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#2 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2016 - 03:57 PM

Place a multi-meter or test lamp at the small terminal (Marked with a Red X) and see if it lights up when the Key is turned to start. (Make sure the solenoid ground is good).

If it lights up, solenoid is bad.

If it doesn't then there is an issue else where.

 

Alternately, you can take a small jumper wire from the + battery terminal and touch the small terminal (Marked as Red X) and see if it cranks.

If it doesn't, solenoid is bad.

If it does then there is an issue else where.

 

Disregard the other diagram mark up's

Attached Files

  • Attached File  scan.pdf   217.24KB   34 downloads

Edited by larrybl, July 22, 2016 - 03:58 PM.

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#3 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2016 - 03:59 PM

The Clutch pedal must be depressed also.


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#4 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2016 - 04:26 PM

The Clutch pedal must be depressed also.

The only interlocks are the PTO switch and the clutch pedal.  Look at the wiring diagram Larry posted and you will see.  Clutch down, PTO and key to S makes it happen.  

 

Start @ the key switch and follow the wire from the S terminal with a test lite hooked to ground.  Lose positive power somewhere and that is the problem.  If there is positive power @ the solenoid check for ground there.  If both sides are present the solenoid is no good.  Ring the circuit out and you will replace the right part.  


Edited by WNYTractorTinkerer, July 22, 2016 - 04:27 PM.


#5 Phluphy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2016 - 06:26 PM

Place a multi-meter or test lamp at the small terminal (Marked with a Red X) and see if it lights up when the Key is turned to start. (Make sure the solenoid ground is good).

If it lights up, solenoid is bad.

If it doesn't then there is an issue else where.

 

Alternately, you can take a small jumper wire from the + battery terminal and touch the small terminal (Marked as Red X) and see if it cranks.

If it doesn't, solenoid is bad.

If it does then there is an issue else where.

 

Disregard the other diagram mark up's

Will give that try.

Thanks



#6 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2016 - 06:44 PM

I made this video several years ago. https://www.youtube....h?v=RM4-xdiGj-8


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#7 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2016 - 06:47 PM

Some more that may be relevant.

https://www.youtube....h?v=qy6b2uXjJlY Troubleshooting Using a Diagram

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=C8UmH03sTqU Starting Circuit



#8 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2016 - 06:54 PM

Found ep 5 https://www.youtube....h?v=9A5LuzlpyZ4



#9 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2016 - 09:37 PM

I just had a cranking issue on BOH. Turned out the connector with two white wires to the PTO switch was loose.


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#10 Phluphy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2016 - 11:06 PM

The Clutch pedal must be depressed also.

Followed steps from your suggestion with jump wire from bat positive to small terminal at base of solenoid...engine cranked. So solenoid is good.

 

The Clutch pedal must be depressed also.



#11 Phluphy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2016 - 11:12 PM

I just had a cranking issue on BOH. Turned out the connector with two white wires to the PTO switch was loose.

Will be able to check that when the correct switch is delivered. Although, as an after thought, if I recall correctly, I have those 2 white wires jumped. It will start and run if I connect the 2 large terminals on top of solenoid. The key switch checked out, but will not activate the solenoid.



#12 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2016 - 11:14 PM

Check the "white" wire circuit. Possible issues are.

Bad key switch or Connection.

Bad PTO switch or Connection.

Bad Clutch switch or Connection.

 

The Solenoid power goes through all the above. 


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#13 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2016 - 11:20 PM

The two large terminals connect the battery directly to the starter. Might as well remove all the safeties and use a 100 amp push button to eliminate the solenoid. Old cars had one of these on the floor board that engaged the starter.

The Solenoid is a safety measure. 


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#14 Phluphy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2016 - 11:27 PM

Check the "white" wire circuit. Possible issues are.

Bad key switch or Connection.

Bad PTO switch or Connection.

Bad Clutch switch or Connection.

 

The Solenoid power goes through all the above. 

Will do the entire white wire circuit. As stated though, PTO switch situation will have to wait. Rest I will cover completely. Sticks in my mind that it all worked the day before when I mowed. Next day, it started with the key and ran. Nothing odd happened until I energized the PTO and the engine immediately wanted to die...just as it would if had the blades running and got out of the seat. Like a long broken record of redundancy I know but that's all I got.

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#15 Phluphy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2016 - 11:31 PM

The two large terminals connect the battery directly to the starter. Might as well remove all the safeties and use a 100 amp push button to eliminate the solenoid. Old cars had one of these on the floor board that engaged the starter.

The Solenoid is a safety measure. 

Entertained that idea months ago...but back then it was the key switch which turned out to be the problem. Still have the heavy push button, never used, but would rather figure this out and hook everything up the right way.






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