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SOME plastic king clutch stuff


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#1 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2016 - 02:13 PM

Took a few scans of clutch in plastic kings.  Three pages I think are from a service bulletin?  Also found a couple of old pix of my 24" tractor that I put in a 16K single and ran nice. Should have kept this one.

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#2 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2016 - 02:19 PM

What year did they go "plastic"?



#3 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2016 - 06:40 PM

The big ones, which look like the above pix even in 16"size started in 85. No metal after that. The Littler 1200 series, sort of the Jim Dandy of modern times, was plastic in 82 and up. Think the hydros also came out about same time and were in those little ones before the big ones. Even later on the big ones, the hoods went from this one-piece tilt up to a 3 piece style that had removable sides and hood on top swiveled up for maintainance items like battery and oil checking, etc. Not sure on exact year for that, but was late 80's, early 90's. The plastic on later ones will break just looking at it, where as the one-piece hoods were much stronger and didn't come apart. First think are fiberglas, and later is a plastic composite, no fibers in it.


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#4 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2016 - 05:37 AM

So that's the famous clutch that causes so much problems .  Were is the weak or wear point on there ?  Kind of looks like a PTO clutch , did PK make it or had a supplier built unit ?



#5 MNGB OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2016 - 07:33 AM

Hi glgrumpy  has hands on experience with these but I've been studying them and there is and early version and an improved later version, one of the problems is the bellhousing cast assembly wears do to a bearing spinning in it this reduces spring pressure on the clutch disc pak allowing slippage that get worse till its shot,  also oil or grease getting into the clutch is bad


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#6 MNGB OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2016 - 01:16 PM

Here's a PDF of the clutch dimensions you can see how the clutch works, I'm there must be a lot of pressure on that spring, the discs are 4 7/8" diameter.

Attached File  Clutch dimensions 4-speed.pdf   20.73KB   19 downloads


Edited by MNGB, July 22, 2016 - 01:19 PM.

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#7 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2016 - 01:55 PM

If I'm understanding that print , the spring is in  compression all the time to keep the clutch plate from slipping then compressed even more when you push the pedal in ? 



#8 MNGB OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2016 - 01:59 PM

Hi Alc, that's what I make of it and as you can see the discs are fairly thin also.


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#9 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2016 - 10:36 AM

Was told common person should not try to dis-assemble that spring w/out special equipment, really strong pressure. That common pressure on the castings and bearing areas is what causes the wear.  I think the clutch is in constant press by spring and only releases when pedal pushed, NOT more pressure to work!  The newer kits had heavier metal disc and thicker material ones. Not sure how that helps anything??  Also they added a "snubber" brake that touches the insides, stops them and makes shifting easier and not so hard on trans with grinding as does when still rolling.  A Band-aid fix for that problem. I was going to try to put in a thrust bearing at the cast wear point on one I had here, but never got that far with it. Figured the wear in case was about same as dimensions of the bearings with the two washer surfaces that came with it. Would probly need someone to machine the inside bore then too, another fella hard to find w/out spending large sums of money. Too much money and time for an "experiment"!


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#10 MNGB OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2016 - 12:24 PM

Hi gl, I've been studying the manuals etc on the clutch and I can see how it all goes together but don't see what keeps the spring assembly in place what holds it together I don't see a snap ring or other fastener locking it. As I understand the newer version also has a locking pin in the casting to keep the bearing from spinning is that right?






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