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Power steering 18089 rebuild kit?

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#1 Husky OFFLINE  



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Posted July 21, 2016 - 11:17 AM

Hi all,


Would anyone know of a rebuild kit for the large frame power steering 18089? This goes on an 1886. Mine appears to be leaking out the front of the cylinder. In the power steering manual there is a repair kit reference 1A  repair kit for item #1  p/n 1723 214. I'm guessing that this cylinder needs to be rebuilt. It appears to be spring loaded also so I don't really want to jump in until I have some sort of guidance. There is no breakdown of that cylinder that I can find anywhere.


If anyone has a few pictures of their power steering I'd be curious to see how that cylinder looks as the piston on mine sticks out the front by 1/8" when the wheels are turned, not sure if it is supposed to. There's an oring that can be seen on the back of the piston when in this position, again not sure if that should be seen.  Any thoughts or info in this is greatly appreciated thank you.

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#2 blackjackjakexxix OFFLINE  



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Posted July 21, 2016 - 11:25 AM

WrenchinOnIt has rebuilt alot of the ones used on the HT-20's,maybe he can chime in
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#3 Husky OFFLINE  



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Posted July 21, 2016 - 11:35 AM

Thank you Rick.

#4 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2016 - 12:15 PM

Here is a link to the service manual that contains some information on it starting on page 6-10 (91) http://gardentractor...service-manual/.  Attached is a picture of the power steering set up on my HT23 that may be the same or similar.

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#5 Rock farmer ONLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2016 - 05:10 PM

Most hydraulic components are standard sizes.
Northeast hydraulics in Kittery may be able to help.


Edited by Rock farmer, July 21, 2016 - 05:11 PM.

#6 Husky OFFLINE  



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Posted July 22, 2016 - 07:45 AM

Yes the HT23 power steering cylinder looks very similar to the 1886 one. Not sure if the internals are the same though. Here is a picture of my cylinder showing the oring at the back and the piston sticking out the front. Do any of your power steering look like this when you turn the wheel?

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#7 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  


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Posted July 24, 2016 - 08:45 PM

Ed the o-ring in your pic #1 is not on my NOS one (see pic) and I don't see the purpose of it on yours. The Bolens PS units on the L.F.'s I believe are unlike what other mfg's did in the use of the control valve and the cylinder as a one piece unit, most use the valve on the steering column actuating flow, Bolens has a Cessna valve married to the hydraulic cylinder and the valve (on the later LF's) is actuated by the drag link, on the early models like yours it doesn't, so it has to have something to allow a " neutral" position and flow , then as you turn the steering wheel it pushes or pulls on the cylinder rod and you get the flow operating the cylinder. As you look at yours (in your pics ) where the hoses connect to the unit is the control valve.

I've never had one apart so I'm sorry I can't help you there, this valve may be spring loaded , pure speculation on my behalf but if you look at my pic #4 it's a later model PS with the larger Cessna valve and is spring loaded to return the spool into the center position ( pic #5 ) the spring is compressed to desired resistance by threading the nose piece on (pic #6)

The early models had a proportioning valve (pic #7) so the hydraulic fluid was able to flow to the dash mounted hydraulic control valves and the PS unit equally so the use of one didn't affect the operation of the other (in theory, again speculation).

The later model PS units design was routing the hydraulic flow from the pump to the PS valve first then to the lift control/auxiliary control valve then back to pump. Again speculating but thus the need for a larger valve and a return to "neutral" on the valve when not in use. I've rebuilt several of the later model PS units and most are froze in the neutral/center position , your hydraulics work but your stroking the cylinder with out any hydraulic flow.

There has to be a spool in your valve with o-rings to seal the flow when stroked in opposite directions. My guess is upon disassembly you will find them in their respective places inside the valve body itself once the spool is removed. Where is yours leaking from the valve or the rod side of the cylinder?

As mentioned a good hydraulic shop should be able to match up what you have o-rings and back up washers if used internally.

I believe (my pic #3) are the holes for a spanner wrench to loosen/tighten the cylinder from the valve, it would be my starting point.

Curious as the late model has a full disassembly diagram with individual pieces listed by part numbers or a rebuild kit, unfortunately it looks like one is not available for your early model, I do have the original instructions from the NOS one and will dig them out to see if they may be of help. Sorry I couldn't of been more help to you. Good luck as you do what many of us have and use the necessity of the repair be your learning tool . As a reminder wear safety glasses upon the disassembly and reassembly process ,spring and perhaps spring loaded projectiles may await .

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Edited by WrenchinOnIt, July 25, 2016 - 08:06 AM.

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#8 Husky OFFLINE  



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Posted July 25, 2016 - 08:27 AM

That is great information you have given to us. I’ve had a few of the later model power steering units on my HT23’s in the past. This is my first Cessna control valve type assembly.

I spent time yesterday on this project and decided that I would go blind and take that thing apart. I took pictures along the way for each step as I disassembled a piece. I can use it for reference when putting it back together.

With the entire assembly in my hand I can put my fingers over the hydraulic hose ports and push the piston rod in/out freely with little resistance against my fingers. This tells me that the orings and seals are no good either in the cylinder or in the Cessna control valve (probably on the spool valve)


The cylinder assy unscrews from the Cessna control valve. Inside of the cylinder there is the typical piston. This piston has what appears to be a well worn telfon sort piston seal. I am guessing that it is double acting (separating the pressure chambers on the rod and piston side?) I need to figure out what exactly this is and the correct size and material needed. 


The Cessna control valve has proven to be interesting. It is indeed spring loaded. I can see the spring when looking inside the two ports. For the life of me I could not figure out how to break open that control valve. Now after reading your post here I believe that those two spanner holes are the key. I’ll need to get a spanner to fit this.


There are two orings external to the control valve. The one that was showing in my picture ends up being an over stretched oring that was so worn that it did not sit in it’s groove and instead rode up onto the casting of the control valve and was visible externally as I described. There is what looks like a backup oring or washer for that worn out oring. These both look like square orings but it’s hard to tell as they are so worn out.


You asked me where it was leaking. The leak was on the control valve side. It was leaking externally between the control valve outer body and the end cap (see the picture with the blue arrow). So I’m thinking that those orings external to the control valve may be allowing oil from inside of the control valve to escape. I ran it and let it set overnight with a ½ gallon juice container sitting under the control valve. The next day the container was almost full of hydraulic oil so this being a low spot in the system, it leaks pretty well even when not under pressure.


I am going to make a good effort to document what is going on here as I take things apart. I would like to be able to rebuild this assembly and share the part numbers for seals and orings for the next person who has to deal with this issue. I have attached a bunch of pictures of the assembly up to this point in the disassembly process.


Thank you so much for taking the time to write such a detailed post with information on this. You have given me the insight as to how the Cessna valve comes apart. I really want to get this rebuilt. I’ll keep you posted on how this goes.

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Edited by Husky, July 25, 2016 - 11:56 AM.

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