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Brought the G10 home


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#1 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2011 - 03:57 PM

OK, got the rascal home.

NO pics yet since it's rainy and gloomy here :mecry:

Got some numbers off of everything.

Tractor
Model: 1055 (does not have the -01 or -02) Any way to determine the year?
SN: 0400929

Mower Deck
Model: 18418
SN: 0510995

Snowblower
Model: 18538
SN: 0401311

Briggs & Stratton Eng.
Model: 251417
Type: 0159-01
Code: 76102212

Looks like I'm missing the U-Joints for both though, as they just have the square shaft on them. Would just one U-Joint work for both units, or will I need one for each?

Now that I think about it a bit, I believe I may have seen the one for the 800's mower deck in the garage. Would that possibly work?

Blower is missing the long crank to move the chute as well, but I think I should be able to fab one if I can find the dimensions. Tractor DOES have the mount/guide for the blower, so that's a plus.

It also needs an ignition switch, as you can turn it on, but you have to short the solenoid to get it to start.

EDIT:

OH, I forgot. It's also missing part of the aircleaner. Has the base and wingnut but not the cover that goes over the dry element, which I'm also going to be needing.

Any help with finding these parts would be appreciated.

Edited by OldBuzzard, May 18, 2011 - 02:08 PM.
Corrected Blower number


#2 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2011 - 04:34 PM

Hey congrats,the G10 is a great little tractor.

#3 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2011 - 05:45 PM

Congrats on bringing it home! I'm sure that someone will be able to answer those questions for you. Sounds like a great unit and can't wait to see pics!

#4 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2011 - 06:58 PM

I believe there is a way to decipher the engine code to give you a year of it's manufacture. I, unfortunately, do not know the trick. Hopefully someone will answer with that info.

#5 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2011 - 07:21 PM

Assuming the engine is original to the tractor the G-10 is either a 1976 or 1977. The G10 was fitted originally with a Tecumseh engine from 1973-1975 then in the final 2 years they fitted it with the briggs.

The universal joints are interchangeable.
Does your tractor have a 3 speed transmission or 6 speed. The 1977 G10 model was the only one that came with the locking differential and 6 speed transmission.

#6 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2011 - 07:50 PM

Called Sonny Bolens in IN.

It's a '77, according to the SN. Also it ISN'T anything missing on the air cleaner. Air cleaner doesn't have a cover, just the dry element.

He also said that having the Briggs engine is better. Dunno if that's right, or just his personal opinion.

U-Joints must be made of unobtanium! They, and Sam's Bolens are asking $144.00 for new ones, and he has a 'used' one for 90.00. Sure hope that I really DID see that one in the garage. He did say that all of the tube frames used the same U-Joint, so If I do find the one from the 800 it will work for the G10 as well.

He has an ignition switch too, and I may get it, even though it's not cheap either.

U-Joint really isn't a high priority item however, but I will want one before winter, as using the snowblower IS what I got this rascal for.

I'll be mowing with the LTX 1045, and will use the G10 for picking up the bags from the grass catcher on the CC, just to give it something to do during the Summer. If I de-thatch the yard this year, I'll probably use the G10 for that as well.

Neighbor has a small garden plot. I know he rototilled it last year. If I can get the tiller that was used with the 800 working soon enough, I'll offer to till his garden just to see it working :D. U-joint isn't a problem for that since it has one that's integral with the shaft.

I guess I'll also be on the lookout for at least the spring assist for the blower, since that rascal is HEAVY. Gotta say one thing. They made things a lot better then than they do now.

Another thing I forgot. It has a different seat. Original one was pretty bad and he replaced it with one from a Honda of some sort. Not all that bad really, as it has a decent backrest, but that big ole HONDA sticher on it HAS to go!

#7 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2011 - 07:57 PM

I forgot to mention that some of the air cleaners came without a cover......
In my opinion the briggs is a lot better.

You may want to check out the site sponsors here and see if they can get a universal joint cheaper for you.
You probably will be better off getting an aftermarket switch because you will pay a lot of money for an OEM one. I may be able to get a new Indak one for you if you cant find one elsewhere.

#8 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2011 - 07:57 PM

... Does your tractor have a 3 speed transmission or 6 speed. The 1977 G10 model was the only one that came with the locking differential and 6 speed transmission.


As near as I can tell just the 3-speed. There is a place (hole) on the frame near the shift lever that looks like that's where another 'control' would be though. Doesn't have the red locking piece on the left axle either.

Sonny seemed pretty certain that it was a 77 though because of the SN.

I'll have to do some more investigating.

EDIT: Just looked at the G series owners manual. That "hole" is for the parking brake. Also, the owners manual make no mention of a high-lo lever or the Controlled differencial for the G10. They do show moving the drive belt for hi-lo range on the G9 and 10

Edited by OldBuzzard, May 17, 2011 - 08:13 PM.


#9 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2011 - 08:00 PM

As near as I can tell just the 3-speed. There is a place (hole) on the frame near the shift lever that looks like that's where another 'control' would be though. Doesn't have the red locking piece on the left axle either.

Sonny seemed pretty certain that it was a 77 though because of the SN.


I'll have to do some more investigating.


I'm going to go against the grain and say its a 76 due to the 3 speed tranny..... Sonny's does have some errors in their identfication charts

#10 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2011 - 08:17 PM

Calling it a 77 wasn't based on a chart, but by talking to him. I do know that there are errors on the chart(s) though.

We ran into that with the 800 having an S8D engine in it and people calling it something else.

#11 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2011 - 12:42 AM

Tractor
Model: 1055 (does not have the -01 or -02) Any way to determine the year?
SN: 0400929

Mower Deck
Model: 18418
SN: 0510995

Snowblower
Model: 1852 Is this number correct? .....I believe it should have at least 5 digits, such as 18516.
SN: 0401311

Briggs & Stratton Eng.
Model: 251417
Type: 0159-01
Code: 76102212 FACT: 1st two numbers of B&S Code = year of manufacture; next two numbers = month;

I have heard that the 5th & 6th digits represent the day of the month, but I have also heard that is not true.
.......I dunno!

So, your engine was manufactured in October, 1976. .....If that is the original engine, your tractor was manufactured late 1976 or sometime in 1977.




Blower is missing the long crank to move the chute as well, but I think I should be able to fab one if I can find the dimensions. I can probably get you the dimensions in a few days if no one else speaks up sooner.

Tractor DOES have the mount/guide for the blower, so that's a plus. Do you have the rectangular pivot block (with the two holes) which connects the long crank to the chute pivot rod? .....Hopefully, it is attached to the 'blower.

It also needs an ignition switch, as you can turn it on, but you have to short the solenoid to get it to start. It could be a bad ignition switch as you suspect, an open circuit between the switch and the solenoid (blown fuse or faulty safety switch), or it may have the wrong solenoid installed. .....I think on this model there was a safety switch for the clutch, and possibly for the PTO. .....The wiring diagram will answer that question.


Hope this helps! ......Congrats on the acquisition!

#12 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2011 - 01:42 AM

Sorry about the bad number for the blower. :booboo:

It SHOULD have been 18538

Do you have the rectangular pivot block (with the two holes) which connects the long crank to the chute pivot rod? .....Hopefully, it is attached to the 'blower.


There is a rectangulaar block on a short rod coming off of the blower...I haven't looked REAL close since it was raining. I'll check on the morrow if/when it quits.

Looked this morning, and there is a nylon(?) block there.

Edited by OldBuzzard, May 18, 2011 - 10:54 AM.
Additional info


#13 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2011 - 11:00 AM

EUREKA!

There was a box of misc stuff that I had not paid much attention to. It had some belts (most likely for the mower deck), the battery tie down bracket, and.......A U-JOINT!!!

I also looked at the switch, and checked a fuse holder there...10A fuse in it is blown, but the wireing diagam calls for a 20A. I'm thinking that just may be why it's not cranking from the key. Will be going out later today to pick up a new one or 2.

There were also a couple of other misc parts. I'll have to take pics and see if anyone here knows what they are for.

EDIT: Put in a new 20A fuse, still no go.

Edited by OldBuzzard, May 18, 2011 - 02:07 PM.


#14 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2011 - 06:52 PM

I looked at the wiring diagram for your tractor. .....There are 2 safety interlock switches which will prevent the engine from cranking. .....They are in the circuit between the "start" terminal of the ignition switch and the small terminal of the solenoid.

One interlock switch is on the clutch linkage, so the clutch needs to be depressed in order to crank the engine. .....The other interlock requires the PTO to be disengaged in order for the engine to crank.

If either, or both, of these switches are faulty or not adjusted properly, when the clutch is depressed and the PTO is disengaged, the solenoid will not be energized.
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#15 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2011 - 10:44 PM

Yeah, I'll have to take a look at those. I'll bypass them IF necessary, but I'd rather not if at all possible.




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