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Is there such thing as too much wheel weight(s)?


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#1 dualresponse1731 ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2016 - 04:23 PM

And if so- what's the limit?

 

I was just thinking the other day, I have an option for a deal on some rear cast iron wheel weights.

I don't really need them- I've already got 50 lb rear cast weights on the tractor, as well as fluid filled tires(??? weight), and up to 160 pounds ballast I can hang off the back. That's waaay more than enough.

 

But this is America and more is better? Right? Just kidding! :D  From a philosophical standpoint, when do you get too much of a good thing?

I was thinking if I got the cast weights cheap enough, mounting them on the inside of the rims. They are not the 50 lb ones, I figure 20-40 lbs tops and should have wide enough center holes to clear the axles.

 

 

At very least I wouldn't need to mount the pocket weights off the back. Also- I cut on some very high angle slopes. The added stability on the wheels would be nice.

 

So... just out of curiosity- what happens when you really put a lot of weight on tires traction wise. Does it just dig in and make holes in the ground?

I'm not suggesting  adding ballast weight off the frame which is loading the axles  and bearings, I am talking about rim sprung weight only (but people who have put alot of weight off the frame/ rear hitch- please chime in)

 

 

Just curious for those guys who have mounted a bunch of barbell weights off their GT's, etc...I've seen some pretty crazy  looking setups on google searches, and wonder how they well they work! I'm also seen those JD stackable rear weights. I'm sure someone had  some sitting around and mounted a bunch. How did the tractor work?

 

Thanks!

Ron


Edited by dualresponse1731, July 16, 2016 - 05:17 PM.

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#2 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2016 - 05:36 PM

My opinion is to have just enough weight to provide good traction 98% of the time. Be it on slopes or pulling a plow.  More is NOT always better.  You didn't mention if your running turf tires or ag tires.


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#3 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2016 - 05:39 PM

One of my Bolens large frames has roughly 210#  of weight added for each rear tire.  100# of Rim Guard, and a 110# wheel weight. It also has 30# or Rim Guard in each front wheel.

 

I have some very aggressive treaded ATV tires on it, and don't have any traction problems, nor does it tear up the grass, even when it's wet and sloppy.

 

The only time you would tear up the grass/ground would be if you started spinning the tires.


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#4 dualresponse1731 ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2016 - 05:40 PM

It is an aggressive "turf" tire, but not Ag. Ordinarily I wouldn't even ask the question, but the weights would be a good deal, and ultimately, this would let me not have to worry about filling an extra set of AG tires with liquid. Usually, I do not run the rear ballast either. It's more for the snowblower, and in that case I run chains.



#5 dualresponse1731 ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2016 - 05:43 PM

One of my Bolens large frames has roughly 210#  of weight added for each rear tire.  100# of Rim Guard, and a 110# wheel weight. It also has 30# or Rim Guard in each front wheel.

 

I have some very aggressive treaded ATV tires on it, and don't have any traction problems, nor does it tear up the grass, even when it's wet and sloppy.

 

The only time you would tear up the grass/ground would be if you started spinning the tires.

Wow! That's good to know, especially the aggressive tread not messing up the grass when wet



#6 CanadianHobbyFarmer OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2016 - 05:44 PM

I have a  Bolens 1054 and was running loaded ag tires and home built wheel weights on it this spring to plow the garden. I had 40lbs of liquid in each tire and the weights were 25lbs each including mounting hardware, so 130lbs total. Most of the time I was able to roll right along in 3rd gear low range with the differential locked without losing traction, had to drop down to 2nd once in a while, This was in fairly heavy silt loam. I think a bit more weight on the wheels would still help. I definitely need some on the front, steering in loose soil with the plow raised was not very responsive.

 

Jim


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#7 classic ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2016 - 05:46 PM

What chieffan said, only put on what you need to get the job done. Any added weight to the tractor strains the drivetrain more than necessary. Wheel weights are far better than hanging weights off of the machine as you already know.
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#8 dualresponse1731 ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2016 - 05:47 PM

fwiw- these are my tires. More aggressive than turf, but will clog with wet mud in a heartbeat!

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#9 dualresponse1731 ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2016 - 06:25 PM

Thanks everyone for the advice. My ultimate goal is picture #1.  :wave:

 

Just kidding!

 

Not really- I was just wondering when overkill kicks in for weight. I don't like lugging around the pocket weights as they beat the tractor to death.

 

I would like a little more stability for my slope (pic 2), although it feels a lot steeper than the picture looks. The good news it that I installed an oil pressure gauge, and the engine doesn't miss a beat on off angles.

 

For fun, I found a pic of this dude (pic 3). That's getting a little "steep"!!!!!!!!

 

Finally, I stripped my weights this weekend and put on a fresh coat of paint. Engraved in them were 109 garden tractor, and "spring....????" (Springfield?) 

I was wondering if anyone knew what these meant.

 

Thanks again

 

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#10 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2016 - 07:03 PM

Any time you get over 15% grade your a roll over waiting to happen.  Don' care how much weight you have on, it wont outdo gravity.


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#11 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2016 - 08:31 AM

Any time you get over 15% grade your a roll over waiting to happen. Don' care how much weight you have on, it wont outdo gravity.

15% isn't really that extreme. Only 7 inches in 4 foot. I do quite a bit more than that.
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#12 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2016 - 11:56 AM

Do you have a full pic of the weight? That will help some.
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#13 Delmar OFFLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2016 - 12:16 PM

fwiw- these are my tires. More aggressive than turf, but will clog with wet mud in a heartbeat!

 

Nice tractor.  could u take some more pics of your lift in the back?  I haven't seen one like that.  sort of a combo 3-point-sleeve hitch style maybe.  Very nice.


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#14 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2016 - 03:45 PM

This helped me understand the diff between grade and percentage

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#15 dualresponse1731 ONLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2016 - 04:21 PM

Hello all.

MH81 - I don't know what type of wheel weight it is, but it seems to be a pretty popular cast iron brand that comes up regularly on ebay. I have included a pic below.

Delmar- Thanks for the complement. The rear hitch is a work in progress. I originally made a sleeve hitch for a 2 inch receiver to hold my carry all. Then, I got a second hydraulic port to work the belly mower and the rear lift independently.  I found an Allison Chalmers rockershaft that seemed to fit very well. My hydraulic cylinder is leaking very bad and I need to deal with that next. After I get that squared away, I am keeping my eyes open for any class 0 rear lower arms/stuff to make it a true 3 point. I want to get the leverage ratios and the new hydraulic ram squared away before getting a rear 3 point. It's not a real priority now, most of what I use the tractor for is for the rear carry all, and that works pretty well right now (pic 2)  :thumbs:

 

Here is a build thread on the tractor which includes the rear hitch shenanigans in waay too much detail! 

 

http://gardentractor...wer-snowblower/

 

 

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Edited by dualresponse1731, July 18, 2016 - 04:28 PM.





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