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Bolens 1054


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#1 harryt OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2016 - 11:02 AM

Hi, I am new to this forum, I have got a bolens 1054, I do have the bonnet. It does run sometimes and is very temperamental, when it does run it is lumpy so I think needs a carb clean. I understand I think you can get a carb kit for it, I also need an exhaust for it. There is also a leak at the back axle where it meets the wheel, so I think a seal is gone. Any information is appreciated and where I can get the parts.
Thanks
Harry

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#2 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2016 - 11:10 AM

Check the manuals section for info. Check with our sponsors for parts. The shipping "across the pond" can be quite expensive. The engine manual has the routine maintenance that should be done. Do it first, then go through the "Troubleshooting Guide" It will take you step by step through the proceedures to diagnose the problem. Carb problems are mostly water or dirt in there. Good Luck, Rick


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#3 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2016 - 11:22 AM

Wow...  That thing is very...  colorful.  Someone got really creative with the paint scheme on that.

 

I know from first-hand experience that these Wisconsins can be very temperamental at times, but when adjusted and maintained properly will run great for a long time.  You can try cleaning the carburetor first to see if that will help.  Especially take care to disassemble it and check out the float bowl as they will collect a ton of dirt, sediment, and gunk in there that will severely affect the performance of the carburetor.  Throw some fresh gaskets on it and see how it runs after that.  Also, if available, be sure to run Ethanol free gas in it.  (This may only be a problem in the U.S. though as they started putting corn alcohol in all of our fuel now...)  I run 91 octane ethanol free gas in all of my small engines and I also use a lead additive in all of my old 1960's and 1970's engines to help lubricate the upper end of the engine.  Remember, this was the gas that was available at the time these tractors were made - leaded regular gas.

 

Another thing you should check, especially depending on how old they are or the last time they were changed or set, are the points.  Pull off the points cover and check them out.  You can turn the flywheel by hand to check the action of the points and see how far they open.  If they aren't opening enough or, conversely, opening too far or not closing all the way, this will cause very erratic engine operation.  Also check to be sure that the points aren't burned or excessively worn.  When in doubt, replace them as they aren't that expensive.  (A new set of points should also come with a new condenser anyways, so replace that too while you are at it.)  Download the manual for your tractor and for the Wisconsin engine and it will show you the specs for the points gap when opened as well as how to set them.  It definitely takes some time fiddling around with them to get them set right, but it is definitely worth it in the end as it will be a night and day difference between how the engine runs with properly gapped points and old, worn out, poorly adjusted points.

 

It also sounds like one of the end seals may be leaking as well.  I believe these are just a bronze bushing on these tractors though.  It might take some work to replace it though and you may have to pull the axle out, but I'm not really sure as I have never replaced one on one of these tractors before.  Drain the gear oil out of the rear axle, pull it apart, and see what you're looking at.  Put in a new seal and fill it up with fresh gear oil.  Just be sure to use the older GL1 or GL2 oil I think as the newer stuff or synthetic gear oils will eat the bronze bushings in the rear end.  This may also be what happened to yours and why it is now leaking as usually those rear ends don't leak even after 40 years of use.

 

Good luck with it.  Let us know how you made out.


Edited by MailmAn, July 12, 2016 - 11:30 AM.

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#4 propane1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2016 - 11:22 AM

I think there are some site members from the UK on here. They may know where to get parts. You may find them and their location on the members map. Some of the more experienced site members would know how to find them on the site.

Noel
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#5 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2016 - 11:23 AM

Welcome to GTT, Here's a parts manual for your machine:

 

http://gardentractor...-parts-catalog/

 

 

I should have everything you need instock, send me a PM when your ready.

If your having running issues you may have an air leak as the head gasket and carb gaskets, look like someone put some type of sealer in those areas

You will also want to check your points and condenser


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#6 BolensChrisUK OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2016 - 12:23 PM

Glad you made it.

 

Harry lives not far from me & I have seen & heard the trac running. It runs ok on tick over but when one full revs it pops & bangs & sounds like the choke is on

 

I too agree it needs a carb clean & good service etc


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#7 secondtry OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2016 - 12:23 PM

Welcome to GTT, Here's a parts manual for your machine:

 

http://gardentractor...-parts-catalog/

 

 

I should have everything you need instock, send me a PM when your ready.

If your having running issues you may have an air leak as the head gasket and carb gaskets, look like someone put some type of sealer in those areas

You will also want to check your points and condenser

   I have been told, and firmly believe sealer on and around a carb is a terrible idea. If you can't find gaskets make them. I have never seen a carb with any kind of sealer from the factory. If a sealer gets in the small ports and passages in a carb it may be near imposible to clean. When cleaning that carb I would save some of the existing sealer I found there in case I needed to use to test solvents to find something to clean out what I couldn't see. I had a piece of Teflon tape that a previous owner used on a gas line give me fits for days. Thought I would have to buy a new carb.  Don    


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#8 harryt OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2016 - 12:28 PM

Wow...  That thing is very...  colorful.  Someone got really creative with the paint scheme on that.
 
I know from first-hand experience that these Wisconsins can be very temperamental at times, but when adjusted and maintained properly will run great for a long time.  You can try cleaning the carburetor first to see if that will help.  Especially take care to disassemble it and check out the float bowl as they will collect a ton of dirt, sediment, and gunk in there that will severely affect the performance of the carburetor.  Throw some fresh gaskets on it and see how it runs after that.  Also, if available, be sure to run Ethanol free gas in it.  (This may only be a problem in the U.S. though as they started putting corn alcohol in all of our fuel now...)  I run 91 octane ethanol free gas in all of my small engines and I also use a lead additive in all of my old 1960's and 1970's engines to help lubricate the upper end of the engine.  Remember, this was the gas that was available at the time these tractors were made - leaded regular gas.
 
Another thing you should check, especially depending on how old they are or the last time they were changed or set, are the points.  Pull off the points cover and check them out.  You can turn the flywheel by hand to check the action of the points and see how far they open.  If they aren't opening enough or, conversely, opening too far or not closing all the way, this will cause very erratic engine operation.  Also check to be sure that the points aren't burned or excessively worn.  When in doubt, replace them as they aren't that expensive.  (A new set of points should also come with a new condenser anyways, so replace that too while you are at it.)  Download the manual for your tractor and for the Wisconsin engine and it will show you the specs for the points gap when opened as well as how to set them.  It definitely takes some time fiddling around with them to get them set right, but it is definitely worth it in the end as it will be a night and day difference between how the engine runs with properly gapped points and old, worn out, poorly adjusted points.
 
It also sounds like one of the end seals may be leaking as well.  I believe these are just a bronze bushing on these tractors though.  It might take some work to replace it though and you may have to pull the axle out, but I'm not really sure as I have never replaced one on one of these tractors before.  Drain the gear oil out of the rear axle, pull it apart, and see what you're looking at.  Put in a new seal and fill it up with fresh gear oil.  Just be sure to use the older GL1 or GL2 oil I think as the newer stuff or synthetic gear oils will eat the bronze bushings in the rear end.  This may also be what happened to yours and why it is now leaking as usually those rear ends don't leak even after 40 years of use.
 
Good luck with it.  Let us know how you made out.



Thanks for that, I have checked the spark which is strong, I think it is definitely a problem with the carb, thanks for your help. Harry
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#9 harryt OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2016 - 12:30 PM

Glad you made it.
 
Harry lives not far from me & I have seen & heard the trac running. It runs ok on tick over but when one full revs it pops & bangs & sounds like the choke is on
 
I too agree it needs a carb clean & good service etc


Cheers Chris, I tried to start today but it would only fire up when I put fuel directly in the spark plug hole

#10 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2016 - 12:36 PM

Well.....the colors are just Right!   Minneapolis-Moline previous owner???  See my Avatar!  I've painted many diff brands in same colors, gotta be diff than all the regular same ol' owners some times. :smilewink:  Seems Bolens are over your way, couple guys on here from there always getting stuff. I see one has posted now. Good Luck with it.


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#11 Bolens800uk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2016 - 03:53 PM

Harry. I saw that yellow Bolens on Gumtree from Southhampton area. I get my parts from Brian and Rick from the States and they are site sponsors on here. They are top blokes and willing to help us Brits out where possible.

They are good engines once sorted.

Cheers
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#12 heliosuk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2016 - 05:22 PM

Misfires at higher speeds are often associated and root caused to incorrect dwell angles however I've never seen a dwell angle publicised in any Bolens manual from memory. However dwell angle is dependent on points gap so it sounds to me as though you need to do a service.

Guys in the US are great in supporting us with bits but the cost is horrendous. When I think of what I've spent and will spend on my G14 the majority of the cost is in shipping and import charges. I have raised a query with HMRC about where the VAT is paid in the supplier home country and if it is applicable to shipping charges as the import duty is applicable to the item value and I don't think we should be paying duty on shipping.


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#13 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2016 - 09:41 AM

Yeah, that is one thing that sounds annoying about the UK...  those pesky VAT taxes on everything!  I'm assuming it is basically just like a sales tax, but it is imposed by the British government, right?  That would be like a Federal sales tax in the U.S. instead of each State setting their own sales tax rates.  Here in the U.S. top sales tax rates are only around 8-9% or so.  I'm not sure how much the VAT taxes are, but from what I've heard they are a LOT higher.

 

Do they have anything similar in the UK to a Tax ID here in the States?  It basically says you are registered as a business and you can buy stuff tax free for your business and to re-sell, the idea being that whatever you end up making or turning around and selling you will charge the customer sales tax on, which you have to collect and then remit to the government.  If you are buying a LOT of parts from the U.S. and the VAT taxes are killing you, it might make sense to get a Tax ID, claim you are a business, and then you won't have to pay the VAT on anything you import.  Of course, if there are no provisions for that and even businesses have to pay VAT on anything they buy with the purpose of reselling, then I guess you're out of luck...  No wonder prices for everything in the UK are so high then...


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#14 Bolens800uk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2016 - 11:27 AM

VAT is at 20 %........

Essentially to claim the VAT back as a business you have to have a turnover of, I think, over £60,000. You would have to charge VAT on your services/products which then become more expensive for the consumer.

There's talk about the VAT going up now due to the recent EU Referendum results a few weeks back.......

Edited by Bolens800uk, July 13, 2016 - 11:31 AM.

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#15 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2016 - 11:35 AM

VAT is at 20 %........

Essentially to claim the VAT back as a business you have to have a turnover of, I think, over £60,000. You would have to charge VAT on your services/products which then become more expensive for the consumer.

There's talk about the VAT going up now due to the recent EU Referendum results a few weeks back.......

 

WOW!!!  Yeah, that REALLY sucks for you guys then...  :(   So on only like a $100 item, you have to pay $20 in VAT taxes?  Thieves...






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