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New member with a 1220 transmission question!


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#16 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2016 - 09:27 AM

Also worth noting, is that the square-head set screws lock into recesses machined in the axle shaft.


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#17 GrantC OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2016 - 03:35 PM

Well, it seems that the endplay adjustment was WAY out, allowing the right side gear to slide far enough over that the pinions couldn't make contact. Adjusted the endplay properly and it seems to work now.

 

There is some wear to the left side of the spur gear teeth, and the spur/pinion gear assembly wobbles a bit, but after adjustment it's tightened up sufficiently that I don't think it will present any problems. This is going to be a runabout for my wife so it won't see heavy use anyhow.

 

The transmission teeth have some corner wear from over-zealous shifting. I don't think it's enough to worry about, again given the easy life this thing's about to lead!

 

(Oh, and a question: who actually made the transaxles?)


Edited by GrantC, July 15, 2016 - 03:38 PM.

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#18 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2016 - 05:39 PM

To the best of my knowledge, Bolens made the gear transaxles.  ......However, more than likely, some parts were out-sourced to specialty suppliers. 



#19 GrantC OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2016 - 07:19 PM

Well, two steps forward one back...got everything buttoned up and the front input shaft seal is shot! It's pouring gear lube out.

 

How hard is that to change, and is the seal a common size I can get at NAPA?



#20 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2016 - 08:10 PM

believe this is the one your looking for

 

http://bolenspartsan...ssion-oil-seal/

 

I could be wrong but think the shaft has to slide out on this one as there is that collar type end on the spline itself.


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#21 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2016 - 08:36 AM

The seal can be replaced without removing the input shaft out of the transmission but if memory serves me correctly it will probably be necessary to remove the brake drum (I know the drum is in the road if you want to remove the front input shaft bearing) as the outside diameter of the drum overlaps the seal hole - you may be able to replace the seal with the drum on but it will be tight.  Here are pictures from my 1050 that show the stepped part of the shaft where the seal runs.  The tricky part is starting the lip of the seal over the step as the seal will need to climb the step at the same time that it starts to enter the transmission case - it will fight you and forcing the seal may damage the inner seal lip.  You can use black electrical tape and wrap it around the spline part of the shaft to build it up until you have the tape the same size as the stepped part of the shaft - you could also use a piece of plastic or steel pipe or heater hose if you can find something the correct size as well.  Then gently force the seal lip over the tape (use oil to make the lip slide easily) and then press the seal into the seal hole. Another option is to undo the rear snap ring and slide the input shaft forward about 1/4" and then start the seal lip over the step first and then press the seal into the hole.  I believe the seal I used came from Napa - CR part # 8763.

  

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Input Shaft With New Bearing Installed.jpg
  • New Input Shaft Seal Installed.jpg
  • Brake Drum Installed.jpg

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#22 GrantC OFFLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2016 - 02:01 PM

The seal can be replaced without removing the input shaft out of the transmission but if memory serves me correctly it will probably be necessary to remove the brake drum (I know the drum is in the road if you want to remove the front input shaft bearing) as the outside diameter of the drum overlaps the seal hole - you may be able to replace the seal with the drum on but it will be tight.  Here are pictures from my 1050 that show the stepped part of the shaft where the seal runs.  The tricky part is starting the lip of the seal over the step as the seal will need to climb the step at the same time that it starts to enter the transmission case - it will fight you and forcing the seal may damage the inner seal lip.  You can use black electrical tape and wrap it around the spline part of the shaft to build it up until you have the tape the same size as the stepped part of the shaft - you could also use a piece of plastic or steel pipe or heater hose if you can find something the correct size as well.  Then gently force the seal lip over the tape (use oil to make the lip slide easily) and then press the seal into the seal hole. Another option is to undo the rear snap ring and slide the input shaft forward about 1/4" and then start the seal lip over the step first and then press the seal into the hole.  I believe the seal I used came from Napa - CR part # 8763.

 

Thanks! Two questions:

1) How is the brake drum held to the shaft - setscrew, roll pin, or ??

2) What's the easiest method to remove the old seal?



#23 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2016 - 03:00 PM

Thanks! Two questions:

1) How is the brake drum held to the shaft - setscrew, roll pin, or ??

2) What's the easiest method to remove the old seal?

 

The brake drum is held in place by a roll pin.  ...It is possible to bend the shaft while removing the roll pin, so it is best to support the underside of the brake drum while driving the pin out.  ...The pin is approx. 1/8" diameter.

 

Once the brake drum is removed, access to the seal is easy.  ....Using a flat-blade screwdriver, I like to rotate the seal first, by driving the screwdriver against the flat face of the seal.  ....Sometimes, that is enough to remove the seal.

 

If not, drive the screwdriver into the flat face of the seal and puncture the seal.  ...You can then use the screwdriver to pry the seal out.

 

When removing the seal, care must be taken not to mar the shaft or the bore of the housing.


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#24 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2016 - 07:19 PM

As Bruce stated the brake drum is held on with a roll pin through it and the shaft - if the drum has never been off it may require heat and a puller to remove it once the roll pin is removed - hopefully yours will come off easily.  Support the brake drum while you are driving the roll pin out so you do not bend the shaft as Bruce said.  An easy way to support the shaft is get a 2x4 and cut it to the correct length so it will reach from the floor to the underside of the drum - you can cut a round half circle in one end to match the brake drum if you wish as it may help to keep the 2x4 in position.  A way I sometimes use to remove a small seal is the drill a 1/8" or a little smaller hole in the seal about half way between the lip and the outside - be gentle drilling so that you do not hit anything else such as the bearing behind it.  Once you have the hole in the seal you can thread a sheet metal or wood screw into it and clamp a pair of vise gips onto the screw.  Then you can pry against the jaws of the vise grips and the transmission case to remove the seal.  Make sure you clean out any cuttings left from drilling the hole in the seal.  The pictures show the brake drum seal being removed but the same method should work on the input shaft seal.  Like I said if there is enough of a space between the brake drum and the transmission case you may not have to remove the drum as the seal may slip by it - when I did mine I needed to remove the front bearing and the bearing hit the brake drum before it cleared the hole.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Vise Grips Clamped Onto Screw And Pry With Screwdriver.jpg
  • Seal Popped Out.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, July 19, 2016 - 06:00 PM.

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#25 GrantC OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2016 - 05:42 PM

Well, it turned out to be a pretty easy job — didn't need to remove the brake drum or slide the shaft forward. There was just enough room to get it in without needing to force anything. I did slightly deform the metal ring when I tapped it home just a tad too forcefully, but it's not leaking so I consider it a win!

 

Thanks for the help, everyone!






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