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4 hours on newly rebuilt k241 and rod siezed to crank


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#16 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2016 - 12:47 PM

As I asked about above, You have to overtorque at first to stretch the bolts. It is in a note in the original Kohler Manual. Not overtorquing leads to the bolts stretching  and the rods failing.  This is a common problem for first time rebuilders. The note is something that was pointed out in Kohler training but is not obvious in the manual..

 

I also use plastigage to get a real reading of the clearance. Good Luck, Rick


Edited by boyscout862, July 19, 2016 - 12:48 PM.


#17 newcaseowner OFFLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2016 - 10:19 AM

As I asked about above, You have to overtorque at first to stretch the bolts. It is in a note in the original Kohler Manual. Not overtorquing leads to the bolts stretching  and the rods failing.  This is a common problem for first time rebuilders. The note is something that was pointed out in Kohler training but is not obvious in the manual..

 

I also use plastigage to get a real reading of the clearance. Good Luck, Rick

yes it does say that in the kohler manual i assumed that was for kohler con rods only.

 

when i got a new rod it was a saint bird brand that was sent and the torque specs that came with told me tighten it to 260 in/lbs with no mention of over torquing it.

 

the kohler manual after closer reading says that con rods with bolts need to be torqued to 285 in/lb after over torquing it 20%.

it also says that rods with nuts are to be torqued to 260 in/lb with no over torquing.

 

so i went with the specs sent with the rod thinking that they were right as it was not a kohler rod.

 

has any one worked with saint bird rods and what did they torque them to so that they worked right??.

 

this is where i got my rebuild parts if you look down the page you will see the specs he sends out with the rod.

 

http://www.ebay.com/...526.m3874.l7936

 

 

by the way he also sent a insta-fire plug with a part number of ( mgd-89013 ) if i looked it up correctly it is for a briggs&stratton not a kohler engine..


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#18 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2016 - 11:55 AM

I've never heard of that brand. I try to use original or Stens' parts. When in doubt, I go by the manual because I've learned not to trust translators. I am sorry that you are going through this trajedy. I'm now worried about my future engine rebuilds. Again using plastic gauge will give an accurate measurement of the clearance of bearings. I've used it for over 45 years on engine rebuilds and can't see the point of not doing it.

 

The seller you showed has tempted me but I've held back on using him. I may try him for a spare K181. I will generally try to get oem from my stock or Stens from a dealer. Atleast one of our sponsors is a Stens Dealer. Good Luck, Rick


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#19 newcaseowner OFFLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2016 - 04:45 PM

I've never heard of that brand. I try to use original or Stens' parts. When in doubt, I go by the manual because I've learned not to trust translators. I am sorry that you are going through this trajedy. I'm now worried about my future engine rebuilds. Again using plastic gauge will give an accurate measurement of the clearance of bearings. I've used it for over 45 years on engine rebuilds and can't see the point of not doing it.

 

The seller you showed has tempted me but I've held back on using him. I may try him for a spare K181. I will generally try to get oem from my stock or Stens from a dealer. Atleast one of our sponsors is a Stens Dealer. Good Luck, Rick

when have the cash to rebuild it again i will go with the stens parts and plastic gauge .

 

i miced the crank and rod and they were in spec  but i can see your point on the plastic gauge.

 

i have built about 10 or more car engines from the oil pan up and this is the first time i have had a rod go bad for any reason.


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