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Trouble with plug wire for Wisconsin S8D


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#1 TeamJA OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2011 - 12:03 PM

Hey everyone,

I'm back for my yearly "friends in need are friends indeed thread." Thank you all for your help last year with my clutch assembly. My '68 Husky 850 made it through the summer mowing my 1.1 acre yard, plowing snow, tiling the gardens this spring and it finally died on the first mowing!

Which brings me to my problem. I noticed the thin copper piece in the points was broken so I ordered a new points set and figured I would replace the spark plug wire since mine was kind of shaky. After I finally got the flywheel off (thanks to previous threads) I staredt looking at the old plug wire. My new one had this type of termination and like an idiot I just yanked the old one out.

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Here's housing and what the plug wire "input" looks like now.

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I also noticed the end of the new plug wire needs to be stripped. I checked with my multimeter and it's not continuous right now. This is what it looks like.

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So how do I prep this end and insert it? The copper fitting slides snugly into the housing right now. Thanks for any help. I know nothing and I'm just hacking my way through this.

Also, I'll need some help setting up the points (I don't know where to read the gap).

Jeff

#2 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2011 - 03:42 PM

This manual will give you instructions on timing the engine and points setup. http://gardentractor...air-manual-497/
Usually I just use a feeler gauge and place it in between the points when they are fully open and I dont have any trouble with them. The gap should be set to .018-.020 I believe.

Hopefully someone has some advice for you on the plug wire....
Maybe you can somehow solder the wire back in place in the magneto

#3 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2011 - 03:50 PM

That coil has a threaded wire holder just like on older motorcycles. Just snip off the entire metal end, then turn the wire in the right direction to work the screw into the wire. In the pic, it looks like reverse threads, but cameras can flip flop the look. Look closely to see if right or left hand threads. I would put a little mineral oil or soap on the wire to aid in not biding against the sidewall of the coil wire hole. Put a little RTV over the end when finished to keep moisture from wire end.
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#4 TeamJA OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2011 - 08:44 PM

Thanks to all for the quick responses. I went out for the second attack of the day, got it all back together and the tractor wouldn't turn over. I wasn't getting any spark out of the plug.

So I took off the flywheel again to double check the connection to the magneto. It looks like the plug wire has no metal wire in it. It's just an outer casing, thick white insulation, than a smaller gauge insulation (16 aug) and fiber in there. I can't get any continuity.

I'm going to give the dealer I got the plug wire from a call tomorrow. The old plug wire had metal strands in it...

Oh well, another day and the grass keeps growing. I'll keep you all informed. I should just go to a small engine shop here and pick up a plug wire because it doesn't look too special.

Thanks again,

Jeff

#5 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2011 - 09:23 PM

I've used the graphite center wires with these types of coils with no problems, but sounds like yours is just plain defective.

#6 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2011 - 09:43 PM

It looks like the plug wire has no metal wire in it. It's just an outer casing, thick white insulation, than a smaller gauge insulation (16 aug) and fiber in there. I can't get any continuity.

I'm going to give the dealer I got the plug wire from a call tomorrow. The old plug wire had metal strands in it...
Thanks again,

Jeff


Jeff, That style wire should have a continuity of 3-7 K-ohms per foot. I wouldn't use it in a magneto application.

Edited by olcowhand, May 15, 2011 - 10:01 PM.
repaired quote

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#7 TeamJA OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2011 - 07:31 PM

Alright everyone, here's an update. I got a new plug wire. Installed it and it's not turning over. I don't think I'm getting a spark.

Is there a way to check if the magneto is putting out a spark after I install the plug wire and before I hook up the flywheel and generator. In other words, is there a way I can test my wire plug installation before I put it back together.

I'm thinking I need a timing light...

#8 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2011 - 07:41 PM

What you need is an ohm meter. Test from the end of the plug to ground and you should get a reading in the 4-8 K ohm range. That will tell you if the connection at the wire to coil is good. You can't really test for spark without the flywheel because the magnets that create the voltage is in there. You can usually just put it on and hold it in by hand and get fire but not always.

#9 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2011 - 07:44 PM

Is there a way to check if the magneto is putting out a spark after I install the plug wire and before I hook up the flywheel and generator.
I'm thinking I need a timing light...


No way that I'm aware of, but you could leave off the cover & use a rope on the pulley to make easier checking for spark. Being you were into the points, I'd be looking for something grounding out there. With the points open, or piece of paper between contacts, and also having the wire disconnected from the coil & kill switch, there should be no connection between the moving points contact and the engine block.

#10 TeamJA OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2011 - 08:36 PM

Dougt, when I check the end of the plug wire to ground it reads 5.2 Ohms. So does that mean the spark plug should be receiving something?

olcowhand, everything looks good from that point. I disconnected the wires and didn't have any connections.

Here are a couple of pics of the points, anything out of place?

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Who wants an 850 with tiller, plow and mowing deck for $500 in Springfield, OH? Ugh....

#11 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2011 - 09:36 PM

Almost looks like the top screw in the first pic is loose. Or is that the adjusting bolt? Turn the engine over slowly until the points open all the way up. Then measure the gap. Adjust until correct. Then try it.

I went to old fashioned copper core wires on my 81, found they do a better job, and the ign system wasn't designed for anything else probably.

Daniel, correct me here, but as a way to make sure you're all the way in the socket and on the screw, measure the depth to the screw and then mark the wire at that length. When properly installed, you won't see the line.
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#12 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2011 - 01:06 AM

Wisconsin points are sensitive to contamination. .....Sometimes the oil from your fingers is enough to insulate the contacts. ....Often new points have oxidation on them, which needs to be removed.

Whenever you install new points, it is good practice to insert a CLEAN piece of paper (brown paper bag works best) between the CLOSED points, and slide the paper out to burnish the contact surfaces.

It is hard to tell from your pic, but if that is oil on the bottom of the breaker box, that can possibly short out the ignition where the nylon insulator block is. .....Oil vapors can also contaminate the points.

Since you have a continuity tester, the most accurate way to adjust the points is by aligning the timing mark (line) on the flywheel with the pointer on the engine shroud. ......Disconnect the wire from the terminal at the outside (bottom) of the breaker box. ....Connect one side of your continuity tester to the terminal. .....Connect the other side of your tester to ground (the engine block). .....Adjust the points so they just begin to open (no continuity) at that position.

When you tighten the clamping screw to lock the points, the setting may change, so rotate the engine BACKWARD a 1/4-1/2 turn, and turn it forward until the timing marks align again. .....Your points should open EXACTLY at that point.
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#13 TeamJA OFFLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2011 - 06:57 AM

Took a "sick day" to help the tractor. I'm heading out to the garage with coffee. Thanks for all the help and support...

#14 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2011 - 07:04 AM

Took a "sick day" to help the tractor. I'm heading out to the garage with coffee. Thanks for all the help and support...


That's sometimes referred to as a "Mental Health Day". Good luck on the repairs.

#15 TeamJA OFFLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2011 - 09:08 AM

Disconnect the wire from the terminal at the outside (bottom) of the breaker box. ....Connect one side of your continuity tester to the terminal. .....Connect the other side of your tester to ground (the engine block). .....Adjust the points so they just begin to open (no continuity) at that position.


I've got two wires on the terminal lug. One goes to the magneto and one goes to the ignition. Should I disconnect both when testing?

Thanks.

Edited by TeamJA, May 18, 2011 - 10:40 AM.





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