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Finally Free 2414PK


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#1 SNUFFY OFFLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2016 - 07:02 AM

After  removing everything but the rear end and final drives( only component that actually had just  oil in it ), draining the water /muck out of differential the dang tractor would still not roll free. Turning the drive shaft  would move it forward and backward but could not push it and make it roll at all. Jacked up off the ground ,wheels spin in opposite direction fine. Finally got thing hooked up to my lawn mower and drug it across the concrete leaving skid marks on floor ....patience was about gone and really dreading tear down of differential. Grabbed the rear tires and rocked it back and forth with a little more gusto....heard a tiny pop and it started rolling like it should have !!!! Eureka !!

Conclusion ...water in tranny had run down the drive shaft tube and seeped into the differential. Rusted input shaft bearing on tranny and rusted input shaft bearing on Diff. I``m not sure how to keep the water intrusion on the shifter from happening other than the heavy grease and secured boot.....and don`t let it set out in the rain !! I`ll cut a couple of slots in the driveshaft tube on the bottom side to keep the water from getting to the differential.

Now we can start to plan putting it back together...finally.


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#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2016 - 07:05 AM

Glad you got it freed up and rolling!



#3 greenb69 ONLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2016 - 07:09 AM

Great job. persistence pays off. I was lucky on my 1980 1612. I bought it sitting out in the snow but everything was working and in good condition. You will enjoy yours I am sure.

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#4 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2016 - 08:02 AM

It is normal for oils from trans to leak back down that tube and into diff. With new sealed bearings in trans, should not happen. I suppose water could do same then, but would have to be alot!! Yes, keep tractor inside out of weather is always helpful. I would drag this around or other way to run it for awhile, then drain all the fluids. IF you wished, then could put kerosene in and do same, drain again!  I would then put in the 80/90 as it should be and assemble. Even if a little noisey at first, I would just drive it that way and change fluids once more at much later time. Still think you need to take off rear cover of diff if you haven't and scrape out the sludges and junk and put cover back on with new gasket or sealer and also change the little seals on the brake levers after removing and cleaning those up and painting. I like blasting, not sure what you can do at your place. I also use a wire brush head in my bench grinder for cleaning many smaller items and the bolts for most tear-downs. Could do the brake shafts that way, hang on tight to the parts, they can be thrown by getting caught on brush wheel and flying away, specially smaller bolts. Might just be good time to put in new bolts on most items. Doesn't take long for small bags of bolts to be $20 to $30 when working on these tractors.



#5 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2016 - 08:06 AM

Forgot to say, they have a seal called a "Witches Hat" that will slip over your shifter shaft and is wide at bottom to cover the trans hole. It does not insert or anything, just overlaps. Makes big difference.  Think fellas on ebay sell them alot. One fella that sold small parts has just passed away, but maybe Mission Manufacturing will have those or know of place to order. I don't have a picture of one, but have seen one on line before. I use them on mine. Sand and paint up the shifter lever first before sliding it down on it.



#6 oldedeeres OFFLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2016 - 08:43 AM

As my then teenaged sons used to say, "don't finesse it, BULL it!! lol.

#7 SNUFFY OFFLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2016 - 08:21 AM

Ha ..."bull it" used to be my style in my younger days....little more patient now.....saves them busted knuckles !!

 

    I`ve already got the diff cover off....was a lot of water in it ...very ugly ! There was some water in the flanged pipe axle cover. All the gears looked nice with clean sharp edges ! I don`t see a seal in manual blow-up . A oil baffle is the next thing behind the nut .  I don`t think it was used much with the water in it. Overall the tractor just doesn`t show much wear at all.

I`ll probably do the kerosene fill and pull it around a while .

     While I`ve got it down this far I`ll probably clean up some of the ugly welds and rough edges before putting some paint on it. I`ve rebuilt my 60 gal Craftsman compressor last year with a much bigger 3 cylinder 2-stage compressor and wondering if it will drive one of the five gallon tractor supply sand blasters good enough to do some blasting on the smaller stuff. I configured my piping to allow full size outlet piping to a quick connect to maximize flow.....still not sure if it will keep up .

    Thought I would paint it back original color...but have about decided to use some of the Ford new Holland colors just for fun ! 

    My niche is the smaller Ford New Holland Tractors and LGT mowers...even had a Shibaura 1400 for while. Since I`m not doing a full restore on this one I think a combo of the different blues....maybe grays and the red for the hood with some stripes and the decals for the hood would be fun. Ain`t nothing big enough on this thing to break out the spray gun for.

Grump...reckon they make the tranny bearings with seal on one side ??? I leary of the sealed bearings although they do seem to work a long time on mower spindles....but they do go bad eventually. I`m thinking if one side was open to get that little bit of oil on them they would last a long time.

 

Oh by the way the '48 mower and mule drive is up for sale !

 

Thanks guys for the comments and suggestions !


Edited by SNUFFY, July 01, 2016 - 08:25 AM.


#8 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2016 - 11:29 PM

Think sealed both sudes, BUT, I put some holes or removed, don't recall on mine on inside edge. I figured same thing, like the idea of oil getting in. The seal is mostly to keep from leaking out, and keeping out the dirts. Original ones have a small brass washer like oil slinger behind them, yet most times I've torn them down, that is either have rubbed away or totally fallen out into the case in bottom. Don't think one can get those anymore either. Kind of a brassy looking washer, with not quite flat shape.


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#9 SNUFFY OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2016 - 07:25 PM

Just an update....I`ve got her down to the frame and wheels and differential.....got it painted and ready to start putting it back together. Put some new tires on the front. For some reason they had the front tires on backwards I guess....had some spacer nuts behind the wheel to keep it from rubbing on the kingpins ???? The nuts were just about halfway on and the leftovers were just about rusted away. Went to napa and advance trying to get the acorn nuts....they couldn`t figure out what they were....gave up and finally got `em on....

Whoever had this thing last really did a lot of goofy stuff.

I`d put some pics up but for some reason my `puter won`t see my pics on my phone....after seeing about 10k pics before. The Ford tractor Blue and the New Holland red really looks good !



#10 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2016 - 12:42 PM

Hey! We WANT to see that color combo!  Get some pix up here, ha!  I use the New Holland Red on my Speedex tractors. Have never had a blue tractor. Seems would be an ODD combination tho, have to see how you did it.   IF we could that is...heh! :D


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#11 SNUFFY OFFLINE  

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Posted July 26, 2016 - 04:55 PM

Oh its a nice combo....the blue is about as rich as the red. So far the frame is blue and the drivetrain is red, steering arms and wheels will be red. Hood will be a combo....can you get new decals for it ?? I can`t figure out why I can`t the pics on my phone to my `puter.....downloaded the phone stuff about a month ago fine....






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