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Bulk Penetrating Oil ?

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Posted June 28, 2016 - 07:02 AM

I`m needing a bucket of Pen Oil big enough to dunk my frozen T-92 tranny out of the Power King 2414 I just got apart. It`s pretty small and would probably fit in a 2-3 gallon bucket depending on bucket shape. I `ve thought I`ve seen a bucket of PO somewhere along the line. I think it would be a great thing to have around . I`ve looked around a little bit and I think you can get the PB blaster in a 5 gal bucket for $150 ...yikes. I`m guessing I could make up a bucket of the Acetone/Tranny fluid mix cheaper than that but not sure how effective that is for sure.

Any thoughts  ??

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#2 John Arsenault OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2016 - 07:11 AM

Buy a few gallons of kerosene , its not PB blaster but if your going to submerge it, it will penetrate. You can do the acetone tranny fluid to and I am sure will have about the same results with a little more cost.  

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#3 WeirdTim OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2016 - 07:13 AM

Half acetone and half ATF.....works great.

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#4 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2016 - 07:16 AM

The more patience that you have the better. I agree with John Arsenault, I've seen many things come loose after a couple of weeks under kero. It took months for a bleeder screw on my C30 to come loose. Good Luck, Rick

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#5 KennyP OFFLINE  



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Posted June 28, 2016 - 07:20 AM

Diesel works pretty good too.

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#6 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2016 - 07:31 AM

I have tried some of those "home brews" and still have a couple in containers on the shelf, wondering what to do with them.  Always go back to the PB blaster.

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Posted June 28, 2016 - 07:34 AM

Thanks guys....Not sure about the chemistry of acetone/tranny fluid either. I`m sure it would thin it on down quite a bit to get in the tiny creases !

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#8 Username OFFLINE  



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Posted June 28, 2016 - 07:56 AM

Generally if you have to soak a T-92 to get it apart due to rust,there is not going to be much salvageable but that is not always the case.

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#9 HDWildBill OFFLINE  


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Posted June 28, 2016 - 09:21 AM

I know you can get PB blaster in gallon can's.  I bought one a year or so ago at a yard sale.  I think I paid $3 for it so I don't think it is that expensive.

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#10 Paulgo OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2016 - 11:00 AM

I love my witches brew of acetone/atf. Shake it up, squirt it on a rusty bolt, and watch it bubble. Stuff works great!  Paul

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#11 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2016 - 11:07 AM

I have used the acetone/ATF with very good results. You have to keep it mixed. It has been lab tested & prooved to out perform other products.

Gunk use to make a concentrated degreeser that you mix with kerosene. It also washes off easily with hot hot. The last time I bought it, it was in a guart can & mixed several gallons...very happy with it.

Edited by Sawdust, June 28, 2016 - 11:08 AM.

#12 adamjd200 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2016 - 01:17 PM

I second kerosene, I keep some on hand for soaking parts.

#13 diesel nut OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2016 - 02:24 PM

On some of the badly frozen stuff I've run across I've used Evapo-Rust and it worked great.  Tractor Supply sells it by the gallon for about $22.  Had a 14hp Kohler that sat for years outside without a head on it and had about an inch of dirt built up on the top of the piston.  Cleaned it up and put a couple inches of the Evapo-Rust in the cylinder and went home for the night, next day I checked it and it leaked down through the rings and into the pan.  A few good whacks with a big hammer and it moved about a quarter inch, filled it back up and let it sit and then was able to get the piston out.         Stewart

#14 MH81 OFFLINE  


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Posted June 28, 2016 - 02:26 PM

The acetone will separate from the atf after a time, you will want to keep it covered and stir it daily.
Kero will work, takes longer but no constant upkeep.

#15 glgrumpy OFFLINE  


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Posted June 28, 2016 - 05:46 PM

Why not just tear the trans down?? They come apart easy, think not much can be frozen in them if saveable.  Once that front bearing retainer is off it, and front shaft pulled out, much of it should just come out easy.  Watch for dropping all the little bearing rollers between top main shafts. 13 of them, find them all! Bottom shaft might need a little more soaking to get out. Real easy to break off that little bolt that holds the metal retainer on outside of case in back. Once retainer is off, the shaft should bump out of that gear cluster. That is on bronze bushings and may not be held as hard as you might think. Those bushings and most bearings can still be gotten. If the teeth on gears are gone or bad pitted, will be issue. I've used pitted ones over, but trans is noisy then, even tho it works. I have a blaster and do all the parts of the trans, cept bearings and usually come pretty clean, enough to inspect and decide on re-use. Buying gears can get expensive, times some on epay lot cheaper. Might be cheaper to buy another better shape trans if real bad shape. If you buy bearings, make sure to get one side sealed bearings, so the fluids will not be leaking out once in tractor, a common problem with non-sealed ones.