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Making wheel weights, How? Look at the lead I got!

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#1 TheFarm2004 OFFLINE  



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Posted June 25, 2016 - 08:53 PM

280 lb of plumbers lead. This will be for a snapper 1855. should it all go to the rear or save some for the front?

What should I use for a mold? I am just real HAPPY that is sitting next to the tractor, been two years getting here.



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Posted June 25, 2016 - 08:54 PM

I don't know but I'll be watching this thread to find out.

Others on here know.

#3 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2016 - 09:13 PM

That's a lot. I messed up big time a few years ago. I scrapped what I had about 200lbs. Two days later I read an article about no more smelting done in the us so keep your lead.

I have seen some nice molds using the old car or truck brake drums. They just leave the lead in the drum but place sections of pipe before pouring to slide mounting bolts thru.
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#4 JBRamsey OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2016 - 09:28 PM

I read a thread on here about a guy using a cheap frying pan as a mold. Same deal--using pieces of tubing for the mounting holes.
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#5 petrj6 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2016 - 05:32 AM

    You need to get ahold of some casting sand, I used to do it in school  little bit and it worked slick!!!!!! https://en.wikipedia...ki/Sand_casting  Just use a stock wheel weight as the mold or even make a plywood dummy to pack the sand around and you are in business.  Let us know how you made out.


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Posted June 26, 2016 - 05:46 AM

KennyP is the one who made the weights. Let me find that thread.
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Posted June 26, 2016 - 05:50 AM

They were suitcase weights
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#8 KennyP ONLINE  



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Posted June 26, 2016 - 06:03 AM

I also made rear weights for the Ford way back. Here's that thread. And I did use a frying pan for the mold. Still use it for melting lead in.

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#9 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2016 - 06:23 AM

My Case 220 came with rear wheel weights that were cast in a frying pan. The fronts look like they were cast in a small bunt pan. Good Luck, Rick
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#10 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2016 - 10:39 AM

280 lb of plumbers lead. This will be for a snapper 1855. should it all go to the rear or save some for the front?

What should I use for a mold? I am just real HAPPY that is sitting next to the tractor, been two years getting here.



Lead is getting scarce and expensive. The current administration has helped to close the last lead smelter in this country.  Wheel weights are now zinc, which destroys lead for anything but weight.


I cast bullets, and scrap lead is selling for $1.00 a lb or more.  A friend and I had 1,000 lbs stored in his garage.  When he died, his son sold it to a scrap yard for 43 cents a pound without telling me. I didn't say anything to the widow or ask for my share of it out of respect for her, but I was livid...but I digress.


My point:  Sell it to someone that can use it for something more than wheel weights and buy some barbell weights, etc. 


Just my two cent's worth.



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#11 bgkid2966 OFFLINE  



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Posted June 26, 2016 - 02:51 PM

I used a cheap cake pan from Wally World and then drilled the bolt holes. 


Here is the topic .  www.gardentractortalk.com/forums/topic/40618-wheel-weights/


I have 2 of these on each side and will put 2 more per side.




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#12 dualresponse1731 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2016 - 07:11 PM

Great thread. I am jealous!!!! That's a lot of lead. You've probably got enough lead to make two big rear wheel weights and then still have a lot left over. Just me- but I'd use the extra lead (after the rear wheels) to make suitcase weights which you could shift around as needed depending on the project. Hang em off the front, hang them off the back, hang them off a rear box blade or something, all depending on what you are doing.


Also throwing in my 2 cents of silly ideas (I've never done this- so don't laugh toooo hard at me) I would line a spare rim with aluminium foil, block out the valve stem and wheel bolts, and go for it. (actually I wouldn't even do that)... I would.... :mad2:


On my lgt, Ive got the rims mounted "outwards" for a wider track. It puts the valve stem on the inside of the rim. I don't know if this is possible or not on your tractor. If I was doing this on my lgt, I would stick long  threaded rod through all the mount holes on the rim, not even worry about the valve stem (because it is on the inside), pack aluminium foil around the rim to keep the deep section "watertight", not even worry about the lug nut holes, and fill her up flush to the rim edge. (without tire I guess...). The lead would engage the threaded rods and cool. You would then just put bolts on the inside of the rim on the rods to hold it on. You could fill air as needed from the inside, and if you needed to remove the tire, you'd just remove the nuts off the rods and the weight would come off, giving access to the bolts.


The only thing I can add from a design standpoint, is this would fill the rims with the maximum possible amount of lead. I've got the plastic and cement filled weights on my JD and although they work, they protrude outwards past the rims. I've smashed them into MORE stuff that you can imagine.. arghh... so if you can keep the weight semi-flush to the rim, not sticking out toooo far...all the better.


Just a thought- (again- I know nothing about this process especially compared to those that have done this)-other than I googled the lead melting point about 1/2 of aluminium to make sure the aluminium wouldnt melt with the hot lead. Does that work that way in real life? I havent a clue! :D


Good luck!

Edited by dualresponse1731, June 26, 2016 - 07:38 PM.

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Posted June 27, 2016 - 09:46 PM

Great score! Back in the 90's when I was operating a go-kart track we had a weight minimum so fat guys could be competitive too. We would just melt lead into coffee cans a couple inches thick then peel the can off. Like dummys though we didn't stick a small pipe in it for bolting provisions. That stuff doesn't drill too well---LOL!