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NOW WHAT!?! gas tank coating peeling in sheets!


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23 replies to this topic

#16 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2016 - 07:06 PM

If you had a cement mixer or some other slow rotating device (barbecue rotisserie ) you could fill the tank about 1/3 - 1/2 full of new sand. . . . .

I've jacked up one wheel on my GT and bungeed a tank to it while it ran.

 

Or . . . .      what about muriatic acid?


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#17 MiCarl ONLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2016 - 09:06 PM

There is a white tank liner out there called Kreem that is frequently used in motorcycles.  If the prep isn't 100% it comes off like you're describing.  Ever since I encountered my first failed one (not my work) I've quit using it.

 

Now I use epoxy liners.  Doesn't look as pretty but it lays down in a thick layer that gives it its own structure so it isn't so critical that it bond perfectly to the tank.

 

With yours, I'd be tempted to get as much of the crap out as I could then re-line it with an epoxy liner (Redcoat, Caswell, etc.).  That should anchor the old stuff so it stays put.


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#18 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2016 - 12:33 PM

Yes I already have Red coat here, have done several tanks out of that can. As I had with the previous coating that I had.
I think I have used them all
Por-15, KBS, Kreem, Hirsch and now red coat
I was only ever leery of the Kreem product.
that may well be what this is.
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#19 olds45512 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2016 - 08:48 PM

i coat a lot of tanks at work and this is hands down the best tank coating ive used.

 

http://www.caswellpl...ank-sealer.html

 

ive always thought it was funny how they give you instructions to repair a failed kreem or por 15 seal job. lol


Edited by olds45512, June 27, 2016 - 08:52 PM.

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#20 FordLT80 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2016 - 10:58 PM

Good Day to All! I hope All are enjoying a pleasant one.

 

I have a Lil 'ol Ford LT80, what has a metal gas tank with rusty innards. I think I'm going to do the Apple Cider Vinegar trick, with an assortment of nuts, bolts, nails, and what-have-you... shake it all about... Then I'm going to clean it out real good and dry it.

 

I did a little research, not much really, but I thought I'd pour some of this stuff in it: Rust-Oleum Automotive 248659 8-Ounce Rust Reformer Bottle, Black (Amazon Prime $5.77)... and shake It all about...

 

...then after all that, which is really not much, and Very Inexpensive... keep the tank Full of Premium Gas and a bit of Sta-Bil after every time I use the tractor... and of course keep an eye on my see thru in-line fuel filter to make sure the tank is remaining clean of rust flakes.

 

I'm thinking it's cheap enough, and easy enough, that I can always do a 2nd treatment if I feel it's necessary. I believe if the Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer does as it says, and converts the rust... then that should be the name of that tune... I think once the tank is clean and converted, keeping it FULL with the Sta-Bil, should keep water from forming inside the tank, where it can create rust to begin with... whaddayathink?

 

Best Regards & Good Health to All,

 

Johnny  :usa:



#21 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2016 - 12:51 AM

Johnny, Welcome to the forum. I don't believe the product you mention is designed for use inside gas tanks. I've never used the rust-oleum brand converter but have always trusted their products. I've never been real impressed with any of the ones I've tried.



#22 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2016 - 06:07 AM

like Doug says those "rust converters" have never impressed me..... I bought and used a bunch of that "EXTEND" back when it was 1st introduced to market and to me it seemed to speed up the rust and deterioration, opposite what they claimed....


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#23 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2016 - 07:52 AM

I have been using the spray on Rustoleum Rust Reformer for some time. It does a great job as far as I am concerned. Haven't tried it inside a gas tank though. It does need to 'cure' for 24 hours before you put anything over it though.



#24 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2016 - 06:54 AM

Unsolder it, take it apart and clean it out perfectly, soda or sandblast spotless, then put it back together. If you have access to auto body lead you could coat the entire interior with it and then reassemble. A radiator shop could easily take it apart for you and reassemble it once all clean. Then you will have a perfect leak free tank.




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