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Run Away Problem Returned


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#1 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2016 - 12:12 PM

Been working with my Cub Cadet 1512 bought used at an auction.  Changed the hydro oil and filter.  Put in Northland HyTran 15-40 oil.  New trunnion springs and button ends.  Linkage adjust and is snug.  Tried it and worked fine but did not mow with it, just ran up and down a incline in the yard several times.  Today went out mowing and it worked fine as I started down an incline and various grades up and down.  Once the oil got hot it started to free wheel on the down grade again.  Would almost come to a stop, then the hydro would catch up, give a jerk and off it would go again.  Pulls great up the same incline, which is about 5% grade.

 

Due to the fact it worked fine when the oil was cold and started acting up when the oil got hot, I am thinking there is just enough wear in the hydro that it looses pressure with the thin oil.  (Hour meter quit working at 1258.)  Had a similar situation with a bail accumulator a few years ago. Ran about a quart to 2 gal. of Lucas Oil Treatment and no more problem.

 

Anyone have any ideas? 

 

Thinking of draining about a cup full of fluid out of the hydro and add a cup of the Lucas Oil Treatment and see what happens.  Appreciate your thoughts on this.

 


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#2 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2016 - 12:22 PM

I would suggest you call or email Lucas and ask them if the oil treatment would help, hurt or ?? - they have other products that may work better as they do offer other products for hydraulic applications - http://lucasoil.ca/p...hydraulic-fluid - they make and sell oils and additives and have a tech support department that should be able to offer a suggestion as to what product would work for your application. 

Product Technical Support:

Contact Lucas Oil directly at (800) 342-2512


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#3 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2016 - 12:57 PM

Thanks for the suggestion and the phone number.  I know Lucas has a wide range of oil additives as well as other products.  Had great success with the oil stabilizer on the accumulator.  I have another tractor w/o motor that has the same rear end I could throw in if I have to.  Would rather get this one going and drop an engine in the 1811.


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#4 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2016 - 03:50 PM

UPDATE:  Called the support line at Lucas Oil.  He said to use Oil Booster Stop Leak, product key 10019 and that should solve the problem.  He agreed it was wear and hot thin oil that was probably the problem.  Have gallon (smallest I could get) to be here in the morning.  Will see how it goes.


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#5 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2016 - 06:48 PM

That's what I call good tech support. These additives must be similar to how MMO works in the crankcase. I'm thinking different unit's need a different additive. This is good to know. It probably wouldn't hurt to add some to all our tired hydros. Hope this works for you. Waiting to hear.
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#6 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2016 - 06:51 PM

I would suggest you call or email Lucas and ask them if the oil treatment would help, hurt or ?? - they have other products that may work better as they do offer other products for hydraulic applications - http://lucasoil.ca/p...hydraulic-fluid - they make and sell oils and additives and have a tech support department that should be able to offer a suggestion as to what product would work for your application.
Product Technical Support:
Contact Lucas Oil directly at (800) 342-2512

Hats off to you for jumping on this 29Chev. This is good info to save.

Edited by Sawdust, June 24, 2016 - 06:51 PM.

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#7 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2016 - 07:19 PM

Likely is the issue, but my John Deere 430 did the same when I bought it, and turned out it was a cracked frame messing with the linkages.  Downhill was fast no matter how slow I tried going.  Uphill functioned just fine.  All normal after repairing the frame.


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#8 CubDieselFan OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2016 - 08:18 AM

Likely is the issue, but my John Deere 430 did the same when I bought it, and turned out it was a cracked frame messing with the linkages.  Downhill was fast no matter how slow I tried going.  Uphill functioned just fine.  All normal after repairing the frame.


It sounds like a linkage problem to me as well. I would change to regular hytran as well. Not sure what you are using. Did a search on it and came up with nothing. The 10-40 threw me of. What are the specs on the oil?
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#9 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2016 - 05:37 PM

I have checked and adjusted the linkage, new springs in the good Trunnion, etc.  The hydro oil I use is Northland Hi Tran from an IH repair shop.  that is what they use in all the hydro's and transmissions of the tractors they work on big and small.  Did not find any issues with the frame either.  Will check that closer with the wheels off again.  Had them both off when working on the brakes and did not notice anything out of the ordinary. 

 

Cracked/broken frames was a problem with a lot of the older MTD built light machines.  Have reinforced several of them.  Will get deeper into them tomorrow till it hit that 90 mark again.  Then will find some place cooler.


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#10 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2016 - 05:39 PM

It sounds like a linkage problem to me as well. I would change to regular hytran as well. Not sure what you are using. Did a search on it and came up with nothing. The 10-40 threw me of. What are the specs on the oil?

The 10-40 is Hy Tran by Northland.  Have no idea what the specs are on the oil.  I don't get into that technical stuff.  I trust my dealer/repairman. If he says it will work I use it.  Same guy I get my Baldwin filter from. 


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#11 olds45512 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2016 - 07:52 AM

The easiest way to solve your problem is to give me a price and your address, I'll be right over to take the problem off your hands.
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#12 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2016 - 09:11 AM

Run Away Problem Returned   Today went out mowing and it worked fine as I started down an incline and various grades up and down.  Once the oil got hot it started to free wheel on the down grade again.  Would almost come to a stop, then the hydro would catch up, give a jerk and off it would go again.

 

 

Do you have a John Deere on your property? This can cause bad IH behavior.


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#13 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2016 - 07:54 PM

The easiest way to solve your problem is to give me a price and your address, I'll be right over to take the problem off your hands.

 

Do you have a John Deere on your property? This can cause bad IH behavior.

OK olds45512.  Will have the "problem" out later this week or the first of next.  Might even give you the problem for shipping.

 

Nothing green around here except the grass.  Can't afford the shade of their paint.



#14 aagitch OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2016 - 10:31 PM

Maybe there's air in the hyd system? Those Sunstrand pumps are brutes but it's possible it could be a bad pump.
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#15 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2016 - 07:03 PM

May have found the problem.  From the Sundstrand service manual it siad that the run away situation is caused by week springs in the trunnion.  Both springs and end buttons are new in mine.  Pulled the fenders off and put a 1/4" flat washer between the button and the spring.  Took it out for test drive up the road 1/4 mile up hill and back down with the fenders and tunnel cover off.  When I got to the top of the hill and slowed down using the hydro I got sprayed in the face with a shot of oil.  As I came back down the hill every time the hydro tried to slow the tractor it shot oil up.  Contacted the guy that did the rebuild and he said to send it back as that was not right.  The tractor did not run away but it did speed up some before the valve spit out the oil and the hydro caught up.  I am hoping that when I get the valve back the problem will be gone.  I do expect a little speed up on down grade but not much.  Time will tell.  Just remember the flat washer will increase the spring pressure in the trunnion.






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