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Can`t get Flywheel/pulleys off ! !974 2414 PK

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Posted June 24, 2016 - 09:24 AM

Well after removing basically everything to get the stuck tranny out....I can`t get the flywheel pulley off the engine main shaft. Of course that also means I can`t get the clutch housing off of the flywheel either. And oh yeah ...even with tranny out the rear wheels don`t turn either. Even thought the brake pedals move, the shaft going into the housing on at least one doesn`t seem to move. The punny rods from the pedal to housing just twisting a little bit. Pretty sorry design really .

I`m hoping the brakes are rusted shut....the rear wheels would spin freely when we lifted it to load it on trailer. Thinking while I`m writing this that don`t make sense either. The one good thing I found so far is that the engine is free but the "oil "in the engine is really thin and smells like solvent.

Somebody has went to a lot of trouble to put this thing back together to sell it. Most of the bolts have not been tight.

Anyway, back to the Flywheel....I`ve Tried every thing I know to try....Removed everything...got the set screws out ...tight but came loose ok...took clutch out so I could get a better look at the end of the shaft for snap ring or something else keeping it from coming off.. I started off with spraying everything down with penetrating oil and gently tapping with light hammer....inserted wooden wedge between engine and pulley ...more pecking. Finally stepped up to metal wedges and heavier pecking.....put some pretty good strain on the wedges and some pretty good whacking with the 1 lb hammer on pulley/ flywheel . Even put some heat from butane torch ....still stuck.

You can`t get a good angle to give a whack toward the end of the shaft....only thing I know to try would be to give the flywheel a good whack back toward the engine but I`m afraid it would damage something in the crank area.

I`m out of ideas except to put more heat....Help ! I`m pretty sure I`ve got everything off that keep it from coming off....let me know if I`m missing something.

By the looks of everything I`d guess the flywheel has probably never been off ! 42 years old !

Edited by SNUFFY, June 24, 2016 - 09:26 AM.


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Posted June 24, 2016 - 09:35 AM

PB baster and a wait that stuff is amazing.

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#3 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2016 - 12:17 PM

Like HANKG said, PB Blaster and let it soak.  May take a couple days but keep it wet.  Give it a shot every time you walk by.  Your wedge between the block and flywheel is good.  Leave the nut on the flywheel so it is flush and hit that sucker HARD and square.  After soaking a few days ti should pop right off.

good luck.

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#4 glgrumpy OFFLINE  


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Posted June 24, 2016 - 01:43 PM

FIRST, use No force on outer edges of flywheel! Set screws out is start. Reason to remove really? Clutch wasn't pushing enuf? Snap ring in center hole, But, behind pilot bish in and seal. Stays there, comes out with flywheel.only purpose is to be Stop when putting on, hits end of crankshaft. Yes DO get bent, replace if get off. Now, remove the four big bolts holding bellhousing on. Can't remove casting over wheel but gets a cess to rear near engine. Wedges between engine and pulleys might work. Small bolts wedged in space and pushing off by turning nuts Off bolt to push may work. Many times pressure applied, then soaking few days is good. Many times this problem is asked. Look thru or search older postings in forum here.
On brakes...most likely bands rusted to drums, remove wheels to access those and remove bands. If real bad, bands can peel off the metal backing straps! Seals behind drums leak often.save that project for later when tractor running or more done.


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Posted June 24, 2016 - 01:44 PM

Hi have you checked that the flywheel wasn't double set screwed, many time there are 2 set screws in each hole one on top the other to lock them in place, heating with a butane torch is worthless lie using a cigarette lighter, soak it for many days what ever you do don't try or use a puller that flywheel is cast iron and will snap right off. Keep working with the wedges, most likely one or both of the brakes are rusted just take it easy and work on it don't get mean with things time is a lot cheaper than parts.

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#6 Dave Central NY OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2016 - 03:47 PM

Here's what works,  a piece of 1/4" steel  about 7 1/2" in diameter  with 6 holes in it that match the holes that held the clutch engaging levers and springs to the flywheel.  You  have already removed everything you need to to mount the puller to the flywheel. This part I don't recall well since it was about 5 years ago I pulled one. You need to put something on the end of the crank as a spacer so you are pressing on the crank shaft.   Tighten the 6 bolts evenly  then give the plate a rap with a hammer, tighten the bolts some more then rap it again. Keep it up till the flywheel comes off. If I ever have to pull another one, I'll drill a hole in the center to put a bolt through that will press on the flywheel

Pk flywheel puller 003.JPG Pk flywheel puller 004.JPG

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Posted June 27, 2016 - 08:05 AM

thanks guys....It took 10,000 pecks (not exaggerating)......I spent about 3 hours thurs and another 3 hour Friday...but finally got it off. Tried PB too ...I tried to heat it again with pressure between engine and pulley....peck peck peck. I was trying to heat the top half mostly so as not to swell the shaft too. Even checked with my laser temp gun. 2-3 degrees cooler on shaft end...about 240 degrees after 20minutes with butane. Didn`t really want to get it hotter than that to save seal In engine. I was hoping some where in the cool down it might give way....even wrapped a rag around shaft at engine side and poured some ice water on it. LOL Finally after continually pecking while it cooled it finally moved enough for the wedges to get loose. I though ok good deal now it come on off. Wrong !! I could see the set screw mark in the key had moved a little.  2 1/2 inches and 8000 more pecks if finally dropped of end of shaft ...wouldn`t turn loose till the last peck at shaft end. Expected to see corrosion on shaft.....clean as a whistle. The key was at least 2 inches long....may have made it hard.  ! Kept adding blocks in with wedges...trying to juggle 4-5 pieces of metal in between wedges was the hardest part ...never moved more than a thousandth a peck all the way to the end. I`ve never been known for my patience but my late MOM would have been proud of me ! Will be some severe polishing before we put back !

Now we move on to other issues...but I`ll do a new thread for that.

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#8 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2016 - 08:29 AM

Glad you succeeded & no damage. Soaking & patience is what gives you the good results at the end. We all want to start heating & tapping too soon. I had a good laugh reading the part of nursing your seals & shaft while torching...been there. Definitely start a new thread of your project with pics so we all can take the ride with you.

Edited by Sawdust, June 27, 2016 - 08:31 AM.


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Posted June 27, 2016 - 08:51 AM

Thanks Sawdust...it is an adventure!! It was probably a good thing my oxy/acet torch didn`t have enough hose to reach the Tractor LOL Having been a Pipefitter welder for 40+ years I know how easy it is to overheat thing especially when aggravated !!

I`ll get some pics going soon !