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G14 parts questions


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#16 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2016 - 07:08 PM

Those are for frame reinforcement, later tubeframes like the G14 came with them equipped after lots of guys were ramming too much with the front plows and crushing down the tubes when they were tightening the bolts down. 2 went on each tube, I have never taken apart one of the newer ones so someone will have to come up with some ideas on getting the plates upright for installation.


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#17 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2016 - 08:43 PM

1000, found those now in the parts book. Does say only 4 needed. Makes sense, can put into the ends. They are kinda snug fit and will stay upright or sideways or whatever is needed  I believe anyway.  When I dumped tubes out two more showed up, thinking from middle. Maybe don't need to bother with those, someone added??  I'll see what I can do with those, and if too much trouble, will leave them out.


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#18 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2016 - 10:10 PM

Well, parts painted up, hope to get the front end and rear case connected with tubes and put tires back on, to have rolling chassis. I'm thinking whole center section can go up from under and in tubes area after rest is together, am I right?  I have that flat top of trans/body painted, just have to put back the little levers and things before installing that.  Have the park brake drum on gear case now, just got that. I still have to clean up the center area and fix the brake plate/clutch area. The brake plate was on crooked and is worn off on one side only right now. Not sure if gonna get surface put on or buy another plate if around, haven't asked yet. Just gotta find time to get to shop.



#19 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2016 - 09:37 PM

Well, finally got the clutch shaft and parts disassembled. ON trans end, that little adapter would not come off for nothing. Ended up I had to press it off! Heck, was only inserted about 1/2" in the coupler, but sure was holding on. I got the rubber "bonded coupling off, was kinda seperated, so I thought they were just kinda stuck together with rust, and pulled one side off the rest of way. Well, after that, thought NOT to do, looked like was glued. Parts book shows #84 1716561 as assembly. SO, is mine done then? Can I glue with something? Can assemble as it is now? Still get that? Also the #81 shaft coupling looks to have pretty weak splines. I slipped it on trans, which looks Ok, and is kinda loosey. Best I replace now? Still available? I have a G9 parts tractor I bought with this one, are all these G series the same parts and would have these? Course, is there any luck another used one is gonna be any better? Now, no truck to go get that other tractor to bring home and tear down. :( Must find a way...... Think the Wife's Terrain needs a hitch,umm, yep! Just don't tell her, she won't notice it. Till connected then...Oops! Think that could pull my little GT trailer just fine.

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Edited by glgrumpy, July 03, 2016 - 09:39 PM.


#20 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2016 - 09:49 PM

Have clutch questions. First, after removing the big nut on the end of shaft, thinking the next part should push off, but didn't. I tried my press, but was pretty tight and didn't seem right and stopped. Then, I see end has flat spots like for wrench maybe??? Well, what you know, that part unscrews and easily too! Pulley sheaves came right off then, the 3rd member I see splines. So back to press, but wasn't tight and came out easy. SO, there was material on one side of sheaves and nothing on other side. Book shows the material on the sheaves as assembly and also material listed seperate. Still available? How thick or thin maybe is this? Should I go to a clutch place and have stuff put on?  Not sure how thin they can go. AND, the brake plate material is also toast, it was cocked most of it's late life and wore off one side now. That looks a little thicker maybe? Or is the clutch just so worn, that the 1/16" still on one side is worn down that much? I was also trying to push out that center bearing #95 1704479 and now looking at the diagram, guess I'm pushing it IN to the holder, not right way, jeez! I'll go out tommorrow and see if can press other way. I took snap ring off, figured it would go IN then, guess not. Not sure function of snap ring then?  Bearing available.?



#21 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted July 04, 2016 - 06:19 AM

Most all the parts are readily available , that is your bonded coupling that is supposed to be together , they are still available new but they are priced more than what some tractors go for, I'd look for a used or try and bond yours back together

The clutch is hard to explain in type , I'd look at your manuals and download the service repair manual which explains how to work on them.


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#22 heliosuk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 04, 2016 - 04:15 PM

The cast input shaft coupling looks knackered to me. I think chev has repaired one before but it takes a lot of doing. Personally I'm going to get one enlarged and a steel insert put in and if it works have some made for owners in the UK. Either that or have some made in steel.

Cast iron is a lot softer than people think !!!


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#23 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted July 04, 2016 - 04:50 PM

The coupling appears to be badly worn as stated above.  I was able to get a new one for my 1050 about three years ago through MTD - at that time I believe they said they had around 6 left in inventory - 1716585 is the part # - attached is a list of the tube frame models that used it.  I would suggest that you can probably find a good used one as well as the disc from a parts tractor.  You should have a close look at the spline on the input shaft as it is probably worn as well given the condition of the coupling - cast iron may be soft but it will still wear steel as you can see in the attached picture of the spline on my 1050 input shaft .  I have also included a picture of the spline after I built up the worn area with the mig welder and cleaned the spline up using a 3" cut off wheel chucked in an electric drill - the drill let me grind out the grooves for the spline while keeping control of the amount of material being removed.   Worst case scenario you can make a new coupling like I did out of steel - check out this link starting at post #12 - http://www.mytractor...k-together.html - it will walk you through the steps involved - a bit of work but I was able to make one before the new one I ordered showed up and I was able to carry on putting my 1050 back together.  The link will also give you some pictures of the clutch set up as well.

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  • Worn Spline On Input Shaft.jpg
  • Spline Repaired.jpg

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#24 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2016 - 04:38 PM

Ok, now drag link issue. Ball feoo out one end. Looks like po welded on it some. I see snap ring in there, but metal must be too far gone? Am I looking at diff one? Is one off G9 same? Any tricks to saving this one?

#25 heliosuk OFFLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2016 - 04:44 PM

They are cheap and plentiful on flea bay in the US. Suggest you buy new replacements.



#26 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2016 - 05:57 PM

Front wheels, one new tire on, looking like GT again.

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Edited by glgrumpy, July 08, 2016 - 05:58 PM.

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#27 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 11, 2016 - 06:05 PM

Clutch discs on the way and a brake plate with material, one new bearing in the actuator, slowly and expensively getting there. This is all before even looking at the engine yet, might be broke soon working on that next! 


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#28 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted August 23, 2016 - 09:38 PM

Today bought this deck. Looks like same hangers on it as I already have, so think should fit my G14. What think? There were two there. One had diff wheel mounting, and another metal runner on sides of deck, where this one has one only. The other also did not have hanger system, just four flat stock lengths, very short to hook it up. Both had the gear box and shafts on them. I have the front half of shaft now also. I didn't measure, but is 3 blade, small ones, but three of them. I can look later to see if a tag with numbers on it anywhere, but has been painted over I bet if anything left of one.

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Edited by glgrumpy, August 23, 2016 - 09:40 PM.


#29 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2016 - 07:28 AM

Looks like a 42'' Judging by the gearbox but you can measure the blades to be sure



#30 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2016 - 08:04 AM

Wow! Thanks guys!  I would not have chosen that manual by name. They sure make a million diff ones!!  Tec, you must be like me, Want to do the puter things, but have NO idea how?? Heh!  Anyway, I'll take look at these now. If real big manual, will just print out pages I need I guess. I've been wearing out print cartridges printing manuals lately. Some get up to 80 or 100 pages and I even learned to do the odd/even thing to save paper! 

I save the manuals to a Cd and use an old lap top in the shop.  Lots better than look at a tiny 3 X 4 phone screen and real cheap also.  Can get a lap top for $50 or less.






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