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Massey MF10/MF12 gear drive idle questions.


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#16 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2011 - 11:05 PM

Check to see if the idler is rubbing on the bottom of the tinwork. The manual says something about "Below the frame" for positioning... read it twice & then guess at what they mean... :D

#17 MFGray OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2011 - 04:44 AM

I have something similar on my MF10. The well-worn starter-generator can't turn the engine over, even when the transmission is in neutral unless the variator is in park or the clutch is right down. It seems that once the front belt is engaged, the additional friction of the two pulleys is too much for the starter. I put it down to a combination of a worn tensioner system which I know needs to have it's rivets replaced and an idler pulley that is not running as straight as it should- there is too much wear in the bushing and pivot where the idler carrier pivots on the transaxle. Once it's running the engine doesn't much notice whether the clutch is in or out - it has that much more torque than the s/g I guess. It sounds like too much friction at the back end. It might be good to check the rear idler bearing.

George

#18 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2011 - 06:37 AM

:rolling::rolling:

Check to see if the idler is rubbing on the bottom of the tinwork. The manual says something about "Below the frame" for positioning... read it twice & then guess at what they mean... :D

Funny but true the way most instruction read.

#19 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2011 - 05:21 PM

I am happy to report that I got everything adjusted and it is working like a champ. I did the variable adjustment per the manual and also adjusted the brake, I now have all five speeds instantly and my parking brake works now LOL.

I also noticed that the load on the engine was almost non existent while the variable lever was in a drive position but the tranny in neutral. I readjusted the carb once the engine was at full temp and I adjusted it while it was in park. She idles great now and it doesn't matter if it is in neutral by either park or gear shift. It is a shame she burns a little oil, has been doing that since I got it. Will probably try and redo the rings sometime soon unless I put a China diesel in it.

I took a quick video and will post it a little later once it is uploaded.

#20 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2011 - 05:52 PM

Good stuff George
The vari-drive adjustment is really not hard to do but you have to do it the way they say and in the order they say or it just won't work right.

#21 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2011 - 06:06 PM

Alright here is the video, I was wrong according to the video. You can hear the rpms increase a little bit when I put it in park. The thing is though the tractor was just sitting for about an hour before I did the video so it was still a little cold. I took it out later and mowed with it and the idle speed is still holding perfect. I am definitely much happier with it then what I was. I couldn't stand it before when I would have the tractor idling with the tranny in neutral and the clutch out and then go to push the clutch in and all of a sudden the rpms would go racing.



#22 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2011 - 07:15 PM

George, that's great! Was the idler rubbing anywhere?

#23 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2011 - 08:51 PM

Glad to here you got that sorted out.

It's amazing how finicky those varidrives are, but it's also amazing how well
they work, if dialed in properly.

#24 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2011 - 04:59 AM

George, that's great! Was the idler rubbing anywhere?


It wasn't rubbing anywhere that I could see. The idler is actually a little more then a 1/4" below the frame when the vari drive is in park. When I adjusted the nut on the linkage with the tractor running and the vari drive in the 5th position there was a good bit of play between the two links (#2 and #3 in the manual diagram). I turned the adjusting nut counter clockwise with the engine running until there wasn't any play and then backed it out another 1 1/4 turns. Then I put the vari drive in the 1st position and shut the tractor down. The main drive belt was just a tad loose so I started it back up, put it back in the 5th position and turned the adjuster about a 1/2 turn in, there still wasn't any free play and enough tension on the belt that it doesn't slip in the 1st position even going up a steep grade.

#25 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2011 - 05:01 AM

I should add that I am probably due for a new main belt. I think the slapping or noises that I heard was the clutch pedal smacking the step plate at shut down. The belts seem to flop a little when it is running and when the motor shuts down I think it was loose enough that it allowed a good bit of movement.




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