Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Gravely Super Convertible vs Gravely Commercial 10A


  • Please log in to reply
12 replies to this topic

#1 bheisey OFFLINE  

bheisey
  • Member
  • Member No: 83501
  • 1 Thanks
  • 5 posts
  • Location: Maryland

Posted June 15, 2016 - 09:10 PM

Hello,

 

I am new to the forum and hoping to get some good info from the experts.  I am on the verge of buying my first Gravely walk behind to maintain about an acre of overgrown area with no bigger than 1 1/2 inch saplings.  I have 2 options.  One is a Super Convertible with 30" brush hog, cart and snow blade for $1000.00.  The other is a Commercial 10A with brush hog & Sulky for $500 (and much farther away). Both look to be nicely maintained.  Is there much difference in brush hogging performance between the 2?  What's your opinion?

 

Thank you for your help. 

Barry



#2 js5020 ONLINE  

js5020

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 7086
  • 541 Thanks
  • 677 posts
  • Location: PA

Posted June 15, 2016 - 10:31 PM

Yes there can be quite a difference, what transmission does the super have?  I'm thinking they could be had as an L (high speed), LI (intermediate speed), LS (slow speed), or L8 (conglomeration of all speeds).  A super would have electric start, not sure if a governor came standard?  Some say the L type machines are the better balanced with the smaller lighter attachments.  Brush hogging, snowblowing, rotary plowing to mention a few are best accomplished at slow speeds where lawn mowing, snow plowing, trailer towing to mention a few are higher speed jobs.  Some L guys say the LI geared machines are the best compromise in a single speed machine and will locate and mount gear reduction units to slow them down for blowing and rotary plowing.  LS machines are not common, straight L's are most common followed by the LI's.

 

The 10A on the other hand has the 8 speed swiftmatic transmission, and a governor.  The Kohler engine in the 10A has a plentiful supply of parts whereas the Gravely T head has limitations when it comes to parts, more so the amount of places they can be obtained.  The 10A would be the most tail heavy beings the size of the engine is the same as the larger 12 but with a smaller bore.  I have a 12 and I must run 15lbs or so on the front of a 30 deck to keep it on the ground, same with the snow plow, and continual upforce when used with a sickle mower. 


  • Gtractor, Alc, Oldford and 1 other said thanks

#3 PaulL OFFLINE  

PaulL
  • Member
  • Member No: 49081
  • 111 Thanks
  • 68 posts
  • Location: New York

Posted June 16, 2016 - 12:38 AM

The Super Convertible would be 4 forward speeds and 4 reverse speeds which would be adequate for your use. It likely has a governor - if you get it be sure to keep the governor lubricated or it will self destruct. (Don't bother asking how I know.) Parts have not been a problem for me as there are several sources.

The C10a will be much heavier at the rear end compared to the Super Convertible. Some bush hog decks have a longer neck to the gearbox which may help with weight distribution. Otherwise weight can be added to the top of the deck if you need better balance. I don't have either of my Kohler powered Gravelys running yet so I can't comment too much on performance.

The low and high speed in low range would typically be used for brush hogging depending on how dense the stuff is that you are cutting. 1 1/2" soft wood (e.g. sumac or pine) will be eaten more readily than hard wood (e.g. maple or oak). Cutting too much at once may cause the attachment (brush hog) clutch to slip or the tractor to stall if the clutch is too tight.

The Super Convertible looks to be overpriced to me and the C10a seems to be priced appropriately, assuming they both run. They each have their pros and cons. The Super Convertible is 7.6hp, has pressurized lubrication but no alternator/generator for keeping the battery charged. The C10a is 10hp, has an alternator/generator, but has splash lubrication. If I were buying, I would lean towards the C10a - better price, a few more horsepower, possibly a couple of years newer.
  • Gtractor, Alc, js5020 and 1 other said thanks

#4 bheisey OFFLINE  

bheisey
  • Member
  • Member No: 83501
  • 1 Thanks
  • 5 posts
  • Location: Maryland

Posted June 16, 2016 - 05:35 AM

Thank you both for the great feedback.  Holy cow, there's a lot I don't know about Gravelys and small engines.  You both mentioned putting weight on the front to help the weight distribution.  I've seen weight kits on 4 wheelers but not on 2 wheelers..  Do those mount on the front of the attachment or the front of the tractor itself?  Not sure what that would look like.



#5 Gtractor ONLINE  

Gtractor

    The Tractor Hoarder

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 782
  • 6,624 Thanks
  • 3,917 posts
  • Location: Chillicothe, MO

Posted June 16, 2016 - 07:20 AM

I believe the replys above speak of just adding any ole weight you can find for balance.  Unsure if Gravely offered a weight just for that - they very well could have but it could be hard to find one if it exists.

For a using machine I'd prefer the Kohler engine - THE BEST small engine ever made.  If you have very steep hills to maintain the full pressure lubrication of the Gravely engine would be more suited. 


  • Alc and js5020 have said thanks

#6 js5020 ONLINE  

js5020

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 7086
  • 541 Thanks
  • 677 posts
  • Location: PA

Posted June 16, 2016 - 08:47 AM

Thank you both for the great feedback.  Holy cow, there's a lot I don't know about Gravelys and small engines.  You both mentioned putting weight on the front to help the weight distribution.  I've seen weight kits on 4 wheelers but not on 2 wheelers..  Do those mount on the front of the attachment or the front of the tractor itself?  Not sure what that would look like.

Gravely made both longer neck drives specifically for the heavier Kohlers  and offered weights for those upgrading from an L type machine to the Kohler.  Both items can be found, but can be pricey.  I drilled a 3/8 hole in my 30 deck and bolted a stud in it to hold barbell weights, cheap fix.  All two wheel machines are all about weight distribution and leverage to make a machine that is easy and enjoyable to use and learning to guide the machine and not try manhandling it.


  • Alc said thank you

#7 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

HowardsMF155

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 4243
  • 2,699 Thanks
  • 2,916 posts
  • Location: Central NC

Posted June 16, 2016 - 11:55 AM

I've used a Gravely L-8  (the manual start version of the Super convertible) and a 10 HP 5460, which is a later version of the 10a convertible in moderately heavy brush with the 30 inch mower.  I have to say, the minor HP upgrade really comes in to play at full speed operation with the brush hog when dealing with cutting grass and heavy brush.  Plus, as mentioned, the engine will recharge the battery, where the Super Convertible will need to be hooked to a battery charger on occasion.

 

The 'weaknesses' of the 10a, are the increased power can cause problems with the clutches, and the high/low planetary gear set seems more prone to wear as it runs faster (3600 RPM) compared to the Gravely-engine (2600 RPM) tractors.

 

Further, as mentioned, a 'standard' 30 inch deck designed for the older series of tractor does not balance the tractor and it will tip back toward the engine.  Either add weight - I've wrapped and pinned a logging chain around the drive, seen barbell weights bolted on the deck- or use the deck with the longer attachment neck to balance the tractor better.


Edited by HowardsMF155, June 16, 2016 - 12:02 PM.

  • js5020 said thank you

#8 bheisey OFFLINE  

bheisey
  • Member
  • Member No: 83501
  • 1 Thanks
  • 5 posts
  • Location: Maryland

Posted June 16, 2016 - 05:27 PM

Great info.  Thanks.  Picking up the 10A tomorrow.  I'll post pics when I get back.



#9 PaulL OFFLINE  

PaulL
  • Member
  • Member No: 49081
  • 111 Thanks
  • 68 posts
  • Location: New York

Posted June 17, 2016 - 12:26 AM

Once you get your machine go to www.gtcoa.com and download free manuals for the tractor and attachment(s).  Engine manuals can be downloaded here  http://www.kohlerengines.com/home.htm  If the engine has a Gravely nameplate instead of a Kohler nameplate, the Kohler equivalent should be a model K241 for 10hp.


  • Alc said thank you

#10 bheisey OFFLINE  

bheisey
  • Member
  • Member No: 83501
  • 1 Thanks
  • 5 posts
  • Location: Maryland

Posted June 17, 2016 - 03:08 PM

So I woke up this morning and didn't had a good feeling in my gut about the 10A.  Went back online and came across a Professional 12 for $250.  The owner said it needs carb work/new carb because it's been sitting gas for a couple of years.  Who knows what else could be wrong.  I am not mechanically inclined but it seems like the right price even if someone else fixes it.  or it could be fun to learn on it too.  The bush hog and double wheels should be worth close to $250.00 alone?  .

 

Am I in over my head for my 1st Gravely?  I can't figure out how post a pic or I would

 

Thanks


  • Alc said thank you

#11 Clifford Bridgford OFFLINE  

Clifford Bridgford
  • Member
  • Member No: 71036
  • 334 Thanks
  • 92 posts
  • Location: New Hampshire

Posted June 17, 2016 - 09:08 PM

The Pro 12 for $250. is a bargain even if it does not run.  This would have been the latest design of the 2-wheel Gravely tractor.  These are great tractors which you can take to any job with any attachment and get the job done.  I bought a brand new 5660 which is the previous 12 HP model new in 1980 and it is still my primary workhorse.  It cost $2400. in 1980 and I would not sell it for $2400 right now.  I have never done any repairs to the transmission or axle.  The carb had to be replaced once as the worn throttle shaft was not available as a repair part, the fuel pump was replaced last year, it needs points and a spark plug about every six years.  I change the oil twice a year and the air filter once a year.  I changed the tires once also.  Maybe a $1000. spent in 36 years.  $100. per year for 36 years is a pretty cheap tractor that runs as good as the day I bought it.

 

Cliff


  • Alc and Cat385B have said thanks

#12 PaulL OFFLINE  

PaulL
  • Member
  • Member No: 49081
  • 111 Thanks
  • 68 posts
  • Location: New York

Posted June 18, 2016 - 12:37 AM

The Pro 12 sounds like a bargain.  I think it came with more safety features than earlier series (for better or worse).  The attachment style would be Quick Hitch vs 4-bolt on older models.  Quick hitch attachments are available but probably not in as broad a variety as the older style 4-bolt attachments.  There is an adapter available to connect 4-bolt attachments to a Quick Hitch style tractor.  Once you get the initial bugs worked out, the Pro 12 being a newer machine (with proper regular maintenance) should give you more years of trouble-free operation than an older machine with more hours on it.

 

You should be able to clean the carb without doing any permanent damage even if you aren't successful in getting it running.  Get some spray carb cleaner with the little tube for directing the spray.  Start with removing the float bowl to get an idea of how gummed up the carb is.  Clean the needle, float, and bowl and make sure the needle moves freely  before reassembling.  Turn the adjusting screws in until they lightly seat NOTING HOW MANY TURNS FOR EACH SCREW.  Remove the screws and clean the passages.  You should see carb cleaner spraying into the throat of the carb.  Replace the screws to the same number of turns out from fully seated that they were originally.  Drain any old gas, including fuel lines, and use it in your lawnmower. Replace the fuel filter, if so equipped.  Check the inside of the gas tank for sludge and clean it if needed.  Put some fresh gas in the tank.  Non-ethanol gas is best (only available in premium here).  I usually mix in some Seafoam as a stabilizer and fuel system cleaner.  Try to start it  and hope for the best.  If no luck, make sure gas is getting to the throat of the carb and to the cylinder.  Check for spark next.


  • Alc said thank you

#13 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

HowardsMF155

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 4243
  • 2,699 Thanks
  • 2,916 posts
  • Location: Central NC

Posted June 19, 2016 - 07:09 PM

Try "Isavetractors" website for a replacement carb if you doubt your ability to rebuild the carb.  


  • Alc said thank you




Top