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wasn`t planning a complete redo ....But


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#1 SNUFFY OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2016 - 07:39 AM

After removing the sheetmetal and hydraulics to access the top of stuck gear shift, I removed the shifter and found the tranny with water and some kind of solvent. I managed to get the shifter moving and the disc on the end doesn`t show the wear I was hoping to find. The cogs that slide on the shaft and what ever they attach to move freely and wiggle the shaft they are attached a little. The main gear right up against the front housing does not wiggle at all. I`m assuming it is rusted into something. I filled the housing with some 30 wt and diesel mix....it was leaking out the front of the clutch housing pretty fast. I`m guessing since it only uses a small amount of oil in the tranny that it doesn`t have a seal in the front. Probably a tight bushing fit. The PO had apparently tried to free it with some kind of solvent since the fluid level was about equal to the bottom of the shaft where it would have leaked down to .
   I was trying to figure out how to remove the drive shaft so I could get the Tranny out and see no way short of moving the rear axle . The manuals I can find has nothing about drive shaft removal but says you have to remove the engine to get to the clutch and then remove a pin of some sort in the front of the drive shaft.
   Is this the only way to get to the drive shaft and remove the tranny.....seems like painful way to do anything. !! I wasn`t planning to do a complete redo and paint and all but if I have to remove the rest of the front sheetmetal and all major components just to get to the tranny I might as well.



#2 2broke2ride ONLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2016 - 07:44 AM

It's easy, leave the sheet metal bolted up, unbolt the motor mounts, unbolt the belhousing to tranny bolts. The whole motor, hood, and dash, will slide forward as a unit just enough to unbolt the tail of the tranny from the torque tube and sneak it out. There is a YouTube video of a guy doing it, I will see if I can find it on lunch break.

Edited by 2broke2ride, June 15, 2016 - 07:44 AM.

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#3 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2016 - 08:37 AM

All assembled move?? New one to me. Usual deal is pull offf the front sheet metal, the dash will be loosened up to by the same bolts that hole the bellhousing  with clutch pedal on tractor. Removing the engine tie down bolts allows that to slide forward and pull front shaft from clutch/flywheel area. You CAN just undo the four bolts holding the trans to the bellhouse and pull too, but then the throw-out bearing is harder to keep in place or not able to, and almost impossible to hold in place enough to put shaft back thru it when assembling. PLUS, if the trans is that bad, you should be looking the clutch parts over good while torn down anyway, fix as needed.  Most times can tear down the trans and just clean up parts and be good. Would put in the new sealed bearings tho to keep lube in the trans, the orig does NOT have seals and yes leaks out both ends in it's life. The hardest bearings to find are the 13 rollers between the two shafts where they split. AND, if found are crazy prices like $4.75 EACH roller when I was pricing one time. I never found the correct ones, used my older ones or some from diff trans or something to make it work. Some make a bushing for there if able too machine items. Pull that Metal, move the engine and big bellhousing part away from the smaller bellhouse that is on the trans.  Easiest way, but PIA to do.  I left the tunnel off my 24" model and put down a floor plate on top of frame, so could open trans in future if needed. In my  Avatar if can be seen.  Have to make oil tank and battery mounts tho, when tin is gone.



#4 SNUFFY OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2016 - 09:59 AM

thanks 2 broke....I may try that.....just dreading old bolt removal....Had to grind the heads off 2 of the 3 bolts holding the seat/hyd bracket /sheet metal. Mainly just wanting to get the tranny soaking somewhere while I evaluate and decide what to do with the rest of it.

  I`m the kind of fool if it`s a pain to get off I`m gonna fix it good enough when I put it back so I don`t have fool with it any more. Since it`s been repainted it would require a whole more work that I would want to start right now.

Grumpy ...when I get it apart I will be doing everything you mentioned....too much pain to have to take apart again. Thanks for your detailed steps...what I was needing.

  Right now I`ve got a ford 1500 that needs the new fenders installed so I can sell it......I`ve got a 1520 with a front Hyd scraper blade I need to trade for a FEL. I`ve also got a Ford LGT 14 D I`m wanting to conjure a 3 pt hitch for and replace all the bearings in the spindles on the mowing deck.

And oh yeah a Case 444 Demonstrator I`m trying to get going so I can sell it . I won`t mention the Gravely walk behind and the 50`s era Original Snappin Turtle mankiller that my dad bought in the mid `60s. ....It`s actually probably in the best condition of all of `em ....just hasn`t been run since the `80s



#5 2broke2ride ONLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2016 - 10:33 AM

To each there own I guess, that's how I did mine and I always pull a manual trans by unbolting it from the belhousing. I put them back together the exact same way, not hard at all. I've done everything from my pk to ford mustangs to international dump trucks that way, literally hundreds with no problems.

#6 2broke2ride ONLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2016 - 10:35 AM

https://youtu.be/AUNWr5Xv6Ko
Here ya go
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