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Recovering A Bowl Or Dish Style Seat Pan With The Crimped Outer Edge

seat upholstery tractor seat repair tractor seat recover how to repair a garden tracto

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#16 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2016 - 01:23 PM

You can now glue the two side areas and stick them to the pan.  I used two clamps clamped to the padding material to keep the padding away from the pan while the glue dried - tie a string to each clamps and pull it sung while the glue gets tacky.  Once the first piece of padding is glued you can trim the edge with a pair of scissors - try and hold the scissors vertical so that you trim the material smoothly at the inside edge of the trough where the welt goes. Now you can cut ad glue the second layer of foam in the same manner and trim it the same way as shown in pictures #6, 7, 8 and 9.  Note the clamps in the pictures are just sitting there to give the viewer and better idea of how the padding conforms to the seat pan shape.

 

As mentioned it is possible to apply one piece of padding 1" thick rather than making the padding in two layers of 11/2" if you wish - the last four pictures show the results of the padding being applied in one piece 1" thick.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Puckered Areas Glued.jpg
  • 2 Edges Trimmed.jpg
  • 3 Edges Trimmed.jpg
  • 4 Second Piece Of Foam Cut.jpg
  • 5 Area Marked Where To Apply Glue.jpg
  • 6 Second Piece Of Foam Glued And Trimmed.jpg
  • 7 Second Piece Of Foam Glued And Trimmed.jpg
  • 8 Second Piece Of Foam Glued And Trimmed.jpg
  • 9 Second Piece Of Foam Glued And Trimmed.jpg
  • 1 One Inch Padding Glued To Pan.jpg
  • 2 Left Side Trimmed.jpg
  • 3 Left Side Trimmed.jpg
  • 4 One Inch Padding Trimmed.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, April 03, 2017 - 02:20 PM.

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#17 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2016 - 02:15 PM

Now that you have the padding on give yourself another pat on the back - you are making some progress.

 

At this point I will mention that I did not have an original seat cover to work with so I got some pictures of a couple of seats with original covers and did some calculations and estimating and came up with a pattern that I felt was close to the original.  Once I had that I drew it out on some masking paper and tried it on the seat pan to see how well it would conform to the shape of the seat pan - you can see the results in picture #5.  As you can see the paper wrinkles badly around the curved area at the back and sides of the seat.  I decided to try and make my first cover attempt for this seat using one piece of vinyl and trying to heat form it with a heat gun.  While the finished cover did fit and looked not to bad I was not happy with the result and it required a lot of pulling, stretching and careful use of the heat gun so the material did not get too hot to make the cover fit and look decent.  You can see the initial puckers and wrinkling that resulted in picture #10 and the results of what the seat looked like in picture #11. I am going to show you how to make and install a two piece style of cover made out of two pieces of vinyl sewn together - it does not require the use of a heat gun to form it and the final result fits and looks better in my opinion - you can see what the finished seat with the two piece style of cover looks like in pictures #12 and #13.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Width At Front.jpg
  • 2 Width At Rear.jpg
  • 3 Depth.jpg
  • 4 Pattern Laid Out.jpg
  • 5 Test Fit Of Pleat Layout.jpg
  • 6 Glue Area Marked Out (1).jpg
  • 7 Glue Area Marked Out.jpg
  • 8 Glue Area Marked Out (4).jpg
  • 9 Glue Area Marked Out.jpg
  • 10 Glue Area Marked Out.jpg
  • 11 One Piece Cover.jpg
  • 12 Side View.jpg
  • 13 Seat Front View.jpg

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#18 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2016 - 06:20 PM

Now you can start to layout what I will call the pleated area of the cover.  Most of the original covers used on this style of seat incorporated a bottom area ( sometimes referred to as the "butt" area)  that had pleats running side by side from the front to the back where the seat pan is flat.  Since I did not have an original cover I worked with pictures that other members were able to provide as well as finding pictures on the internet that showed where the pleats were located.  Using these pictures and doing some calculations of how wide the actual seat was in real life versus what the pictures measured I laid out a paper pattern to scale of this area. Make sure you leave some extra paper at the front to allow for the cover material that will go down the front part of the padding and fit in the seat pan trough and that you start at the centre and make each half of the pattern a mirror image of the other or the cover may not look balanced - use a square and a yard stick and when you are done fold the pattern in half and make sure it is equal.  Also make sure you allow a 3/8" seam width around the side and back edges where this piece will be sewn to another piece of material that will form the back and sides area of the cover. I used 1/4" thick sew foam to form the pleats for this seat and there was still a little shrinkage every time a pleat was sewn - I spaced the pleats on the pattern 1-5/8" apart and I lost about 1/16" with every pleat.  For those who do not understand this I would suggest you check out the other thread I did as it will explain about sewing pleats and the shrinkage that occurs every time a pleat is sewn - http://gardentractor...-tractor/page-2 starting at post #17.  Your pattern should be similar to the pattern in Picture #6.  You can then set the pattern on the seat and place another piece of paper underneath it that will become the side and back pattern.  Mark the centre of the bottom paper and cut the bottom paper along the centre line to the point where the pleated pattern will join it.  Then take the bottom paper and bring the front corners in towards the centre at the front until the paper lays fairly flat around the sides and back and mark the two edges where the pleated area will be sewn to it - you should end up a pattern similar to the one shown in picture #5 once it is trimmed - again you will have to leave a 3/8" seam allowance where it will join the pleated piece.  As you can see in picture #7 the two patterns do not appear to match where they will join when they are both laying flat.  I do not recommend that you use plastic to make the patterns as the plastic will not be stiff enough to show up the wrinkles and puckers you will get from the vinyl where as the paper will. Please note you may have to tape on extra pieces of paper along the sides as I have done to get an actual pattern that will provide enough vinyl to cover the sides adequately.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Bottom And Side Patterns Set On Seat Padding.jpg
  • 2 Bottom And Side Patterns Set On Seat Padding.jpg
  • 3 Bottom And Side Patterns Set On Seat Padding.jpg
  • 4 Bottom And Side Patterns Set On Seat Padding.jpg
  • 5 Side And Back Piece Pattern.jpg
  • 6 Pleated Area Pattern.jpg
  • 7 Pleated Area And Side Pattern Together.jpg

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#19 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2016 - 05:45 AM

It's amazing how much material you use when you lay it out flat !


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#20 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2016 - 10:44 AM

It's amazing how much material you use when you lay it out flat !

Yes it does use a bit more material than just making the cover in one piece but in my opinion the results are worth it in the way it fits the shape so much easier.  The pleated pattern could be turned a quarter turn so that it does not waste as much material when marking out the pieces for cutting.  When the two pieces are sewn together the outer piece of the cover is pulled together along the sides and as a results forces it to conform to the curves. 


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#21 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2017 - 02:45 PM

Once you have the patterns figured out you can transfer them to the back of the vinyl and cut the vinyl pieces out - you may wish to leave an extra inch inside the seam allowance on the outer piece of vinyl and then do a test fit on top of the padding to see how well it shapes to the curves and then set the piece that will have the pleats on top to give you an idea of how things are going to fit - you can compare your marks where the seam allowance is marked on the back of both pieces and verify they are where you want them.  If you need to adjust them a little you can and once you are happy with the way they will fit you can cut the inside part of the outer vinyl out making sure you leave a 3/8" seam allowance where it will join to the piece that will have the pleats.  You should end up with two pieces of vinyl that look like the last two pictures.  You can also mark out and cut a piece of 1/4" sew foam - leave about 1/2" extra around the outer edge of where the pleats will be sewn (as shown in picture # 3) so the thread will catch the sew foam rather than just the outer edge of the sew foam.  Once you have the sew foam cut out you can mark a centre line on it and the back of the vinyl to align them and glue it to the back of the vinyl with the sew foam flush to the back of where the pleats will be as shown in picture #5.     

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Marking Out Vinyl For Back And Sides Using Paper Pattern.jpg
  • 2 Vinyl Cut Out For Pleated Area And Marked Where Sew Foam Should End.jpg
  • 3 Marking Out Sew Foam For Pleated Area.jpg
  • 4 Adhesive Applied To Sew Foam.jpg
  • 5 Sew Foam Glued To Back Of Vinyl In Pleat Area.jpg
  • 6 Pleated area Vinyl With Sew Foam On Bottom.jpg
  • 7 Two pieces Of Vinyl Cut Out.jpg
  • 8 Two pieces Of Vinyl Cut Out.jpg

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#22 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2017 - 11:34 AM

Just found, Feels like I'm missing alot o class time, 29, do you have a section on this site, I'm not seein' ? :watch_over_fence:

 

Signed,

 

Paws,

Big Fan of Your Work


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#23 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2017 - 03:30 PM

Just found, Feels like I'm missing alot o class time, 29, do you have a section on this site, I'm not seein' ? :watch_over_fence:

 

Signed,

 

Paws,

Big Fan of Your Work

No section specifically for me - I usually hang out in the Bolens section but I am working on finishing this seat upholstery "How To" that may help some members who want to make their tractor seats look nice again.  There is another one that some members may find helpful and contains more in depth information on how to make patterns from an old cover - http://gardentractor...a-lawn-tractor/ . 


Edited by 29 Chev, April 04, 2017 - 03:31 PM.

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#24 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2017 - 05:08 PM

With the vinyl cut out and the sew foam glued on to the back side you can now start to lay out where the seams that form the pleats will go.  I use a white grease pencil and position the pattern about 3/8" away from the side and mark the locations in the seam allowance - you could also use a lead pencil.  Keep the marks as close to the outside edge of the material as possible - anything more than 3/8" away from the edge will show when the seat cover is assembled so the fewer marks you have to remove the better.  The grease pencil will wash off if not left on for any great length of time and the lead pencil can be removed with an eraser but I find the fewer marks you have to remove the better.  Some people may not have a grease pencil and a couple of the drawbacks using the grease pencil is that the white colour can be hard to see if you are using white vinyl and that you must keep the end of the grease pencil very sharp and not allow much of the pencil to extend past the wood.  If you do not keep the end sharp the lines you draw will usually be thick rather than narrow and crisp and the crayon part is easily broken if sharpened like a conventional pencil because there is no wood to support the end.  I find if you sharpen the end on two sides with a utility knife you can produce a thin line and the crayon does not break easily.  One solution to the colour problem of white on white can be to create a guide line using masking tape.  I used to draw the line where I wanted the seam to be but I have found the offset method using the edge of the presser foot on the line works better for me now (easier to remove the grease pencil as it is not trapped under the thread) and if you are using masking tape as the line to follow you must offset the edge of the tape from where you are sewing or else you will be sewing through the tape which will be a pain to remove once the seam is sewn.  If you measure the distance from the outside edge of the presser foot to where the needle is you can figure out the offset that will be required for the guide lines - on my machine as you can see by the pictures it is 5/16".  Once you have that distance figured out you can make yourself a guide out of short piece of cardboard - as you can see I have one for 5/16" to mark the offset and another one for 3/8" to mark the seam allowance.  I find the markers are easy to make and are much easier on the eyes than trying to read a ruler when marking out distance.  In this case I used the 5/16" marker to mark the vinyl near the edge in pencil where it will not show once the cover is sewn together - make sure you mark both sides in the same direction so that your guide lines are parallel to where you want the actual seam to be.  With the offsets marked you can draw a line with the grease pencil but in this case I will show you an easy way to make a straight guide line using masking tape.  Clamp a ruler (or yardstick) at each side of the vinyl making sure the ruler edge is on the offset marks (that is why I did the offset marks in pencil as it makes them easy to identify) using two spring loaded clamps as you can see in the pictures.  Then you can use the ruler to give you a straight edge to position the masking tape beside as you stick it to the vinyl.  Once the tape is stuck you can remove the clamps and ruler, position the vinyl in the sewing machine with the masking tape edge beside the outside edge of the presser foot and sew your seam making sure the edge of the tape stays at the edge of the presser foot as you sew - make sure you do not try and keep the tape too tight against the presser foot or it may catch the side of the tape and try and lift it away from the vinyl.  Once done you should have a nice straight seam to form the pleat and you can peel the masking tape off of the vinyl.    

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Marking Out Where The Pleats Need To Be Sewn.jpg
  • 2 Pleat Line Locations Marked With Grease Pencil.jpg
  • 3 Pleat Line Locations Marked With Grease Pencil.jpg
  • 4 Grease Pencil Sharpend Using Utility Knife To Provide Thin Line.jpg
  • 5 Measuring Distance From Outer Edge Of Foot To Needle.jpg
  • 6 Width Markers.jpg
  • 7 Offset Marked In Pencil.jpg
  • 8 Yardstick Clamped At Pencil Mark Locations.jpg
  • 9 Masking Tape Stuck To Vinyl Beside Yardstick.jpg
  • 10 Masking Tape Provides Straight Edge To Follow.jpg
  • 11 Edge Of Masking Tape Aligned With Presser Foot.jpg
  • 12 Starting To Sew Pleat.jpg
  • 13 Pleat Sewn.jpg
  • 14 Pleat Is Reasonably Straight.jpg
  • 15 Masking Tape Removed.jpg

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#25 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2017 - 05:26 PM

You ought to think about making an article or something out of these recover/refurbish threads!

 

Folks, I have pinned this thread and one other. I have also repaired the PDF in his thread here on the gear cluster. I checked another article he has here on the shifter knob. That PDF is working for me.


Edited by KennyP, April 05, 2017 - 08:36 AM.

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#26 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2017 - 08:44 AM

I find using the grease pencil easier for marking out the offset lines usually so I marked out the rest of the guide lines with the grease pencil and sewed the rest of the seams to form the pleats - as you can see keeping the end of the grease pencil sharp usually results in a nice crisp line.  As you can see the line is used to position the vinyl so that the seam is sewn in the correct spot and is reasonably straight.  Once that is done you can sew the sew foam piece to the vinyl around the outer edge as shown in picture #8 - make sure you keep very close to the outer edge as you do not want this sewing to be visible in the final cover - anything 3/8" or more in from the edge will show.  You will notice that I only sewed where the sew foam was and then I stopped and backstitched the sewing to keep the thread from coming undone.  You can then trim the outer edge of the sew foam to match the outer edge of the vinyl and then you can wash off your guide lines - I usually just wet a cloth with a little clean water or glass cleaner and wipe the grease crayon off.  Having done that you can mark a 3/8" seam allowance on the back of the sew foam and vinyl - you can use a pen but the ink can sometimes get on the vinyl and can be hard to remove so you may wish to use a lead pencil instead.  In the pictures you can see I have used the cardboard marker to mark the seam allowance and how I used it around the curved areas.

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Guide Lines Marked Out WIth Grease Pencil.jpg
  • 2 Lower Thread Held By Clip.jpg
  • 3 Starting To Sew Second Pleat.jpg
  • 4 Grease Pencil Line Aligned WIth Edge Of Presser Foot.jpg
  • 5 Second Pleat Sewn.jpg
  • 6 Second Pleat Sewn.jpg
  • 7 Rest Of Pleats Sewn.jpg
  • 8 Outer Edge Of Sew Foam Sewn To Vinyl.jpg
  • 9 View Of Back Side.jpg
  • 10 Outer Edge Of Sew Foam Trimmed To Match Edge Of Vinyl.jpg
  • 11 Outer Edge Of Sew Foam Trimmed To Match Edge Of Vinyl.jpg
  • 12 Grease Pencil Washed Off Using A Cloth Sprayed WIth A Bit Of Glass Cleaner.jpg
  • 13 Grease Pencil Washed Off Using A Cloth Sprayed WIth A Bit Of Glass Cleaner.jpg
  • 14 Using Cardboard Guide To Mark Three EIghths Inch Seam Allowance.jpg
  • 15 Marking Around Curve.jpg
  • 16 Marking Around Curve.jpg

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#27 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2017 - 09:47 AM

With the seam allowance marked on the back of the inner piece you can mark the seam allowance on the outer piece as shown in the pictures - I just marked a few spots and then used the yardstick to draw the lines since the back and sides are straight.  Once the marking is done you can align the centre of the inside and outside pieces - I use two paper clamps to hold the pieces initially and then once they are positioned correctly I staple the two pieces together as shown in the picture.  Make sure that you place the staple between the line that you will be sewing on and the outer edge or else the staple holes will show in your finished cover and also verify that you have the red side against the red side before you begin sewing. Once that is done you can remove the clamps and start at the centre on the seam allowance next to where the staple is located and sew the two pieces together - sewing along the straight runs is fairly straight forward but going around the corners does take a bit of work to make sure the pieces are joined together maintain the 3/8" seam allowance.  I would suggest you stop when you reach the corner and turn the machine by hand as you sew and work the two pieces together around the corner - if you stop to reposition the material make sure the needle is through the material when you stop as this will keep the two pieces from moving and pulling out from underneath the presser foot.  As you can see in picture #11 the outer cover edge is at quite an angle to the corner and as you sew a stitch or two you will have to pull the outer piece around to match the curve of the inner piece and it is a lot easier to do if the machine is turned over by hand.  Once you get around the corner the sewing is straight again and easy to do under power. When the one side is done back stitch to lock the thread and then you can remove the staple - I use a small flat screwdriver to pry the staple away from the material. With the staple out of the road you won't accidently hit it with the needle or forget to remove it later on and then you can flip the material over and start at the centre again sew across the back and down the other side to complete joining the cover together - again turn the wheel on the machine by hand as you sew and position the material around the corner.  When you are done you should end up with a cover that curves up around the back and sides like this one does in the last three pictures - give yourself another pat on the back as you have just made a cover for your seat.   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Marking Seam Allowance On Inside Of Outer Vinyl.jpg
  • 2 Marking Seam Allowance On Inside Of Outer Vinyl.jpg
  • 3 Marking Seam Allowance On Inside Of Outer Vinyl.jpg
  • 4 Marking Seam Allowance On Inside Of Outer Vinyl.jpg
  • 5 Aligning Centre Of Inner And Outer Vinyl Uisng Clamps.jpg
  • 6 Aligning Centre Of Inner And Outer Vinyl Uisng Clamps.jpg
  • 7 Pieces Stapled Together.jpg
  • 8 Red Vinyl Against Red Vinyl.jpg
  • 9 Back SIde Of Outer Piece.jpg
  • 10 Clamps Removed And Ready To Sew Inner And Outer Piece Together.jpg
  • 11 Start At Centre And Sew Across To Turn.jpg
  • 12 Starting The Turn.jpg
  • 13 Getting Close To Straight Sewing Again.jpg
  • 14 One Side Sewn.jpg
  • 15 One Side Sewn.jpg
  • 16 Staple Removed.jpg
  • 17 Flip Material Over And Start At Centre Again.jpg
  • 18 Working Around Corner Again.jpg
  • 19 Sewing Along Side.jpg
  • 20 Sewing Along Side.jpg
  • 21 Cover Sewn Together.jpg
  • 22 Cover Sewn Together.jpg
  • 23 Cover Curves Up Around Sides And Back.jpg

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Posted April 05, 2017 - 01:00 PM

As you will notice in the first picture the cover does not sit flat on a surface as the join in the materials tends to hold it up a little bit.  To pull the material together so the cover does sit flat I usually sew a lock seam around the join using the inside edge of the presser foot to keep the lock seam aligned with the edge of the join.  You will probably have to pull on the material a little bit to get the material to lay flat underneath and to make sure the edge of the presser foot is against the join - just use a gentle pull as if you pull too much you will be able to see the joint seam - you can just notice it where the curved corners are in the pictures.  Start at the one end and sew all the way around the join until you get to the other end - again I would recommend that you turn the machine by hand when you sew the corners to have better control and if you stop make sure the needle is through the material so that you do not put a side step in the lock seam which can happen if the material moves sideways under the presser foot.  Check periodically as you sew to make sure the material underneath is remaining flat and when you are done the cover should now lay flat at the bottom as you can see in picture # 11.  You can also see how the cover now forms the shape of the seat pan even nicer and do a test fit on the seat pan as in pictures # 12, 13 and 14.  The cover may not be an exact fit as the seat pan is curved and the cover is not but it should follow the curves very closely and with the help of a little bit of glue the cover will conform to the shape of the foam padding and give you a very nice looking job.  Please note the clamp sitting on the cover is only there to give the camera something to focus on as it does not like the colour red as you can probably notice in a few of the pictures where the details are not sharp.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Seam Does Not Lay Flat.jpg
  • 2 ReadyTo Sew Lock Seam - Inside Of Presser Foot Lined Up With Edge.jpg
  • 3 ReadyTo Sew Lock Seam - Inside Of Presser Foot Lined Up With Edge.jpg
  • 4 Lock Seam Sewn Up To Curve.jpg
  • 5 Checking Seam Allowance Material To Make Sure It Is Flat Underneath Where Lock Seam Is Being Sewn.jpg
  • 6 Sew Around Curve Turning Machine By Hand.jpg
  • 7 Lock Seam Sewn Across Back And Around Other Corner.jpg
  • 8 Lock Seam Sewn.jpg
  • 9 Back Side Of Lock Seam - Join Now Will Lay Flat.jpg
  • 10 Cover Now Is Ready For A Test Fit On Seat Pan.jpg
  • 11 Cover Join Now Sits Flat On Surface.jpg
  • 12 Cover Set ON Seat Pan.jpg
  • 13 Cover Set On Seat Pan.jpg
  • 14 Cover Set On Seat Pan.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, April 07, 2017 - 08:47 AM.

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Posted April 05, 2017 - 01:18 PM

Great work!


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Posted April 06, 2017 - 02:49 PM

You can now set the cover on the foam where you want it to be aligning the centre line on the cover with the centre line on the padding - in this case I set the first seam of the pleats about 3/4" in from the front edge of the seat pan.  When you have the cover in the correct position you can mark the area around where the join in the cover is with a marker on the foam as you can see in the pictures. With the area marked you can now apply the general spray adhesive to the back of the sew foam and the inside of the area you marked - do not spray the adhesive any where else as you do not want the sides and back stuck yet.  I fold the cover inward and then use a large clamp to hold the material so that it is easy to centre the cover in the area - once the adhesive has dried for a few minutes you can stick the sew foam area to the foam area you glued.  Make sure it is aligned with the marks and centred on the foam and using your hand start in the centre and apply pressure with your hand on the top side of the cover to make sure there are no wrinkles or puckers as you stick it to the foam.  If you need to you can reposition the cover as the glue usually lets you work with it for about twenty minutes.  Once you have it stuck to the foam you can remove the clamp and take a bit of a rest as the next step will take a bit of time to do.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Position The Cover In The Centre And Make Sure Front Seam Is Parallel To Front Of Seat Pan.jpg
  • 2 Mark Where Join Is On Foam.jpg
  • 3 Mark Where Join Is On Foam.jpg
  • 4 Mark Where Join Is On Foam.jpg
  • 5 Join Area Marked.jpg
  • 6 Glue Sprayed On Sew Foam Area.jpg
  • 7 Glue Sprayed On Area Marked Out.jpg
  • 8 Cover Folded In And Held WIth Clamp For Ease Of Installation.jpg
  • 9 Pleated Area Stuck To Foam.jpg
  • 10 Checking Alignment At Front.jpg
  • 11 Checking Alignment At Rear.jpg
  • 12 Clamp Removed.jpg

  • WrenchinOnIt, Newpaws493 and 637Yeoman have said thanks




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