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Bolens EK10-EK7 similarities

ek10 ek7 bolens

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#1 Eric OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2016 - 12:34 AM

Hello, I was wondering if an EK10 and an EK7 shared the same transmission? I have recently had some trouble with my EK10 trans having alot of metal in the oil and most likely will have to replace some gears although I have not opened her up yet. Someone has offered me an EK7 and I am hoping the transmission will work as a donor for mine. I also have a line on a second EK10 but the deal is shaky and its condition is less than desirable, so even though I will likely obtain both I am hoping the EK7 gearbox will work for me. Any help is greatly appreciated and thanks ahead of time as I know you guys have a wealth of knowledge.
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#2 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2016 - 07:13 AM

 I don't know if they will interchange.

 

According to the parts manuals ( in the Manuals Forum):

 

1964-1966 Model 930 (EK-7) used # 1716301 transmission assy - # 1715138 trans case only

 

1967-1969 Model 931 (EK-10) used # 1719691 transmission assy - # 1718755 trans case only


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#3 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2016 - 08:27 AM

I dont believe it will be a drop in swap, your dealing with two different engines one which had a different style points box so the trans may be contoured different, also the EK 7 has a different oil drain location and without looking there may not be a hole where there should be if you drop your TRA-10D in there.


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#4 BRIAN EK7&10 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2016 - 10:14 AM

the only difference is the size of the axel shafts and the differential and gears the EK7 has 3/4 shafts and the EK10 has 7/8 this also means that the differential carrier and gears are sized the same. if you have metal in the gear box the most likely gears to be in bad shape are the differential gears as they take the most abuse especially if the tires are a little different in diameter or oversized for the tractor. the break system on these only stops the trans input and output shafts and the breaking action is done by the differential gears not allowing both wheels to turn in the same direction, when slamming on the breaks it puts a tremendous strain on the differential gears. the worm wheel also takes a lot of stress at the same time, I have had the four bolts that attach the worm wheel to the carrier come loose or break off. these should be hardened bolts and put together with blue lock-tight. two of the gears that mesh that make reverse can just be turned around as they are straight cut gears and only mesh from one side. they are the one on the cover and the second from the left on the worm shaft. the first gear, gear (far left on input shaft) also will probably be worn also as this gets a lot of use because it is also used for reverse and is a small diameter and turns at high speed.  

 

hope this helps understand the trans a little better.


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#5 Eric OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2016 - 08:58 PM

Brian that does help and from what I can tell you have said that when I dissasemble my EK10 most of the internals will swap, well at least the ones you say are most likely to be worn. This is what I wanted to know as I am not going to sit my motor on the EK7 trans, I want to use the EK7 as a donor for parts. Thank you all for all the input and I hope to use your help when I dig into these machines.

#6 BRIAN EK7&10 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2016 - 08:57 AM

Brian that does help and from what I can tell you have said that when I dissasemble my EK10 most of the internals will swap, well at least the ones you say are most likely to be worn. This is what I wanted to know as I am not going to sit my motor on the EK7 trans, I want to use the EK7 as a donor for parts. Thank you all for all the input and I hope to use your help when I dig into these machines.

the differential gears are not the same but all the others are.



#7 framesteer ONLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2016 - 09:23 PM

I have seen a EK10 failure of the bolts holding the brass transmission worm gear, as BRIAN EK7&10 described above.  One of the bolts went through the transmission case.  When I put it back together, I used grade 8 bolts and drilled and wired them to prevent them from coming loose.  Fortunately was able to patch the gearbox with sheet metal and RTV.  Still going strong.


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