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18hp Kawasaki has no spark


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#16 Minnow OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2016 - 07:31 AM

I would not think the pulser  coils would go bad. You could check them with a volt meter. They should put out a small amount of ac voltage as the magnet on the flywheel passes by the coil as the engine is spinning with starter. Not sure maybe around 1 to 1.5 volts ac but you should see some voltage reading as magnet passes by coil.

jms180 based on the test results I have now, is the igniter coil bad?  Or are you suggesting it could be pulsar coil or ignition coil.  I found the igniter I need and am ready to get it but don't want to waste the money if that's not the potential problem.  

Thanks!



#17 jms180 ONLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2016 - 07:57 AM

the igniter coil is the go between for the two pulser coils and the two ignition coils. The pulser coil is the input to the igniter and the ignition coil is the output from the igniter. From my view point its difficult to confirm the igniter is bad you make the call. 



#18 Minnow OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2016 - 08:07 AM

Thank you jms180.  I don't mean to put you on the spot or by no means on the hook for my situation.  I'm just not versed in electrical issues.  I can't get my head around both pulser coils or both ignition coils going bad at the same time.  Which leads me to think it's the middleman/igniter. 

 

I just read page 176 of the manual on how to test the igniter.  I don't have the Kawasaki tool so I hope my tester works.  I'll report back on what this reveals. 



#19 jms180 ONLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2016 - 11:11 AM

Thank you jms180.  I don't mean to put you on the spot or by no means on the hook for my situation.  I'm just not versed in electrical issues.  I can't get my head around both pulser coils or both ignition coils going bad at the same time.  Which leads me to think it's the middleman/igniter. 

 

I just read page 176 of the manual on how to test the igniter.  I don't have the Kawasaki tool so I hope my tester works.  I'll report back on what this reveals. 

I just didn't want you to spend money if not necessary. I will take look see at page 176


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#20 Minnow OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2016 - 12:18 PM

I followed the instructions on page 176 and it failed using my meter.  i ordered a new igniter.  $224.  It will be here early next week.  Hopefully only one more mow with my neighbors JD.  

 

I'll keep you posted when the new part comes in.  Thanks again for your help.


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#21 Minnow OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2016 - 03:33 PM

Disappointed today after I installed the new Igniter and still no spark.  

Things ruled out:

Seat Switch..... I bypassed it

Igniter .... Just replaced it

 

Things that are still in question:

Pulser Coil or Ignition Coil

:wallbanging: :wallbanging: :wallbanging:


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#22 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2016 - 04:05 PM

Disappointed today after I installed the new Igniter and still no spark.  

Things ruled out:

Seat Switch..... I bypassed it

Igniter .... Just replaced it

 

Things that are still in question:

Pulser Coil or Ignition Coil

:wallbanging: :wallbanging: :wallbanging:

Does that thing have a delay module like the FD620?  They fail and same results.  Go step by step through the ignition trouble-shooting section in the manual JMS posted up.  It will give you step by step instructions.  Save the old igniter as they are nice to have a spare of..  


Edited by WNYTractorTinkerer, June 14, 2016 - 04:05 PM.


#23 Minnow OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2016 - 04:48 PM

Does that thing have a delay module like the FD620?  They fail and same results.  Go step by step through the ignition trouble-shooting section in the manual JMS posted up.  It will give you step by step instructions.  Save the old igniter as they are nice to have a spare of..  

That was my first thought after reading several posts about JD with the same issues, but Kubota didn't put one on this. 


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#24 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2016 - 06:33 PM

Took a peek at the S/M and no, this engine does not..  

 

To check your ignition system:

 

1-  12V + to both coils with key in run or start.  Check/verify  (**Might be live all the time like my Kaw. engine BTW)

2-  The negative wire from the coil goes to the Ign. module.  Verify or ring out the wire has continuity with a test light or ohm meter.

Unplug the negative wire from the coil and pull & ground plugs against the head.  Jump the neg terminal to any ground momentarily and disconnect.  The plug should spark if the coil is good.

 

3-  So far we have verified the coils are good if all this works.

 

The Ign Module functions by completing the coil's ground circuit when a spark is needed / signalled.  The pulser coils deliver the signal for the I/M to send that ground to coil signal..

 

So the best way to troubleshoot the pulser coil is with an old fashioned analog needle voltage tester..  Unplug the P/Coil and hook the test leads to the two wires in the plug.  When you crank the engine the needle will bounce whenever the magnet passes by the pulser..  (Creates some AC voltage)  Do this for both P/C's..  The needle moves?  All's good as long as the movements are similar..  

 

You have a brand new I/M so you have a wiring or connection issue or the I/M's ground connection is bad..  (can't send a ground signal you just ain't got!)  Study the wiring diagram in Section #7 in the manual and check that all the wiring and connections are made and you will find the culprit.  

 

Hope this helps you wrap your mind around things with that ignition system..  


Edited by WNYTractorTinkerer, June 14, 2016 - 06:34 PM.

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#25 Minnow OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2016 - 07:15 PM

WNYTractorTinkerer I appreciate the trouble shooting advice.  I'll report back what I find.  Thanks

#26 jms180 ONLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2016 - 07:28 AM

  

 

To check your ignition system:

 

 

Very good information thanks for posting



#27 Minnow OFFLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2016 - 01:05 PM

New Pulser Coil

New Ignition Coil

No Spark

Only component I haven't replaced is the Voltage Regulator. 

 

I have a question about the seat switch.  I bypassed the switch by connecting the wires together (Temporarily)
I'm questioning if this is correct.   Or do I need the switch to complete the circuit.   Kids through out the switch so I'm questioning that component again. 

 

WNYTractorTinkerer, The wires were so buried within the motor that I felt I better have the parts if I was going in that deep.  Now going back to test all the wires as you suggested 1st.  


Edited by Minnow, June 30, 2016 - 01:46 PM.





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