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Truck doesn't want to run right and is driving me insane


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#16 Eric OFFLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2016 - 11:50 AM

That was the way it was souding to me but without seeing it in person it is a toss up.

#17 diesel nut ONLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2016 - 12:22 PM

Wow thanks for the replies.  I should have put this up here last week instead of waiting on a couple dodge forums.  

 

Bmerf: I was thinking about that and happened to stumble over a stock air cleaner assembly from one of my old Dodges and managed to get it on with a new filter.  Going to try it today or tomorrow.  I'll read through those links you posted too.

 

Classic: I changed those filters when I rebuilt the carb because they looked kind of dull in color and when i sprayed carb cleaner on them it looked like sediment came out.  The accelerator pump did work when I took it apart but the kit came with a new one so I put it in because I know how those old rubber parts can get.

 

Eric: I was thinking that might be a possibility.  I know the old tecky carbs do that to me all the time.  Just don't really want to spend the money on it if I don't have too.

 

poncho62: I'm going to be pulling the bed off this weekend to get at the tank again and I'll check the lines up there again.  Didn't look too bad when I had it out before but I could have missed something.

 

boyscout862: The sending unit in the tank has a sock type filter on it that when I pulled it out was kind of kinked from laying in the bottom of the tank.  I managed to turn it 90* so the kink was up and down not side to side and there was a lot of crap that I flushed out but it's possible I missed some

 

dodge trucker: I put a new pump on but it's possible the new one is bad too.  On the ballast resistor it looked original to the truck and it was only $5 so I figured I'd change it just to be safe because I've run into weird issues on the old farm tractors that was from one failing.

 

DougT: I replaced the most of the rubber lines.  The ones I didn't replace were from the pump to filter and filter to carb.  The stel lines look almost new but 31 years could have made a hole somewhere.  I'll see about pressurizing the lines to look for a leak.  The pump runs off the cam.  Haven't checked the lobe on the cam yet but the old pump didn't appear to have much wear on the arm.

 

Jack: There is a vent on the tank and it works. I took the cap off and tried it on the day I had it towed and it didn't seem to help.

 

cheiffan:  It does have the sock.  I cleaned it as best as I could when I had it out.  The tank is plastic but I guess it's possible the old gas left a coating inside that is flaking off doing something like that.

 

1oldbuzz:  I put a new pump in mainly because I thought that might be part of the issue.

 

toppop52:  I did put a new pump in but it is possible that is bad too.  It happens at work more than I care to think about with aftermarket parts.

 

propane1:  If it was frosting would it be visible on the outside of the carb and manifold?  Or only in some conditions?  I haven't seen any frost when I opened the hood after coming back from a test run.  The truck has headers so its kind of hard to get hot air from the exhaust to the intake but I'll give that a try.

 

Auburn David:  I'll have to give that a look.  I never even thought of that as it didn't do it before but anything is possible.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions.  I'll give them a  try and look over and let you know if and what I come up with.                       Stewart


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#18 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2016 - 12:26 PM

I have a neighbor with a 70 F 100 thT had a similar problem it ended up being a section of fuel hose that would collapse. Let the truck sit a few minutes for the hose to relax and it would run again til it collapsed again
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#19 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2016 - 02:11 PM

You may not see the frost. Depends how bad it is. Have seen them years ago with so much, could hardly see the carb. But when my ferguson tractor does it, it's not realy visible. Put your hand on the carb base and if colder than you think normal, it's a problem. Only takes a few flakes of frost on the Venturi to cause trouble. When it acts up after running and the engine stops, then the heat from the engine melts the frost in a minute or so and then it will start up and run. Older import cars had a shutter on the intake of the air cleaner. It said summer and winter. So in the winter it was flipped to winter and the engine got hot air from the exhaust manifold. Sorry for the long winded post.

Noel
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#20 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2016 - 04:59 PM

the eccentric for the mechanical fuel pump bolts onto the end of the cam, with the same bolt that holds the timing chain sprocket onto it on those engines.


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#21 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2016 - 05:11 PM

While working for Texaco years ago we were told that anytime the outside air temp drops below 70degs. frost can form in the venturi of the carb. That's why they had different blends of gasoline for different areas of the country all year around. 

Personally I think getting rid of the dime store air filter will help and check your fuel delivery system with an accurate pressure gauge. 

Will be interesting to see what the solution to your problem is.


Edited by Cvans, June 02, 2016 - 05:12 PM.

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#22 JBRamsey OFFLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2016 - 08:04 PM

First, stop changing parts. The things you did for the tune up, filters and the new fuel pump probably needed to be done, especially after sitting for over two years, but I would stop spending money and start troubleshooting. Everyone on here has given you good places to check. Plus you have ruled some out and may already know the answer.

You said it ran fine when you plumbed up the temporary fuel tank. That may tell you all that you need to know. Based on that the problem is somewhere between the fuel tank and the pump inlet. But before changing lines, do some free troubleshooting. The leaking baseplate gasket is a real possibility. Fire up the truck and start spaying around with WD40 or starting fluid if you are brave. If the engine speeds up, you've found a leak. You can do other things based on the input you've received.

Personally, I would plumb up the temporary tank again and go for a ride. Long enough to see if the problem is going to happen again. If it doesn't, then I would hone in on checking the fuel lines between the pump and the tank. I doubt you have a coating problem inside the plastic tank but that's difficult to check without a boroscope.

As you can tell, I'm big on troubleshooting first, then buying parts. Part of that is financially driven, the other is that what distinguishes a parts changer from a technician. I'm far from being a skilled technician. I've watched my neighbor change part after part based on what the kid at Advance told him and what he read on the Internet. Don't anyone take that the wrong way. I seek out other opinions and offer my two cents worth, too, but I try to use everyone else's input as a troubleshooting guide before spending my nickels.

Good luck.
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#23 ckjakline OFFLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2016 - 08:18 PM

I have a neighbor with a 70 F 100 thT had a similar problem it ended up being a section of fuel hose that would collapse. Let the truck sit a few minutes for the hose to relax and it would run again til it collapsed again

Thats kinda what i was thinking.  One of the hoses might be sucking shut.Seen it happen a few times


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#24 diesel nut ONLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2016 - 11:12 PM

So I just got done working on the truck.  I checked the manifold bolts and all but 2 of them were not even finger tight.  They're now all tightened/torqued as best I can get them.  Guess I should probably plan on replacing the gaskets at some point soon just to be safe.  I put a clamp on the gas line at the pump and went back as close to the tank as I could get and unhooked the feed line.  Put an air nozzle hooked to the regulated line on the compressor set at about 20 pounds and pressurized the line to see if there were any leaks.  There wasn't any I could see.  Unhooked the line at the pump and put it in a can and blew the gas out to see what was there.  Once it settles out I'll get a pic of it.  Its cloudy and appears to have a few chunks of something floating around.  Going to try and take it for a drive tomorrow afterwork and see how it goes.  And for a comparison here is the air filter that is now on it, the one that was on it, and one that fits the 14-20 hp Briggs v-twin vanguard engines.  The little black one is the Briggs, the orange is what was on it, and the big black one is what is now on it using the factory air cleaner housing.               Stewart

20160602_232017.jpeg 20160602_232038.jpeg


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#25 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2016 - 06:00 AM

the orange one looks stock, like what those trucks had for years, what is the outside diam.?   is there a number on it?

and whoever mentioned a "coating within the tank; yeah that truck would have come w/a plastic tank, no, it would not have been coated w/ anything


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#26 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2016 - 06:24 AM

Glad you found a possible culprit.
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#27 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2016 - 11:58 AM

That air filter is a lot bigger than I was thinking from your description. Should have been OK as long as it was clean.

I'm not sure but I think the intake manifold torque on my 4.2 was 80 inch pounds which is not very much. 


Edited by Cvans, June 03, 2016 - 11:58 AM.

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#28 diesel nut ONLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2016 - 12:03 PM

the orange one looks stock, like what those trucks had for years, what is the outside diam.?   is there a number on it?

and whoever mentioned a "coating within the tank; yeah that truck would have come w/a plastic tank, no, it would not have been coated w/ anything

The orange one is definitely not stock size.  Its only 8 1/2" across.  I bought that about 3 years ago at advance auto.  It was the only one I could find that would fit the stupid little chrome cover and base plate that was put on the engine.  The big one is about 10 inches.

 

That air filter is a lot bigger than I was thinking from your description. Should have been OK as long as it was clean.

I'm not sure but I think the intake manifold torque on my 4.2 was 80 inch pounds which is not very much. 

Yeah I guess I must have been thinking about a different filter for some reason.  The filter looks good in the picture but the material has a very fuzzy appearance up close and will flatten out easily if you squeeze it even gently.  The torque on the old cast iron head 360 is 35 foot pounds according to the Motors manual at work but the bolts were so loose my 3yo niece could have turned them.               Stewart


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#29 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2016 - 12:35 PM

Hard to judge size in the pics by other's description I thought you were running one of those dinky 6" spectre or old cal custom deals.

#30 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2016 - 01:05 PM

I would have expected the intake bolts to cause a rough idle or stalling at idle. I can't see it causing the float bowls to be empty.


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