QT16.....Have engine out, shaft unbolted and engine pulled away. Shaft will not come off the hydro end. According to manual, that set screw in front area that allows the U-joint and shaft to move ahead is the way to shorten to put on and take off? Seems it should just slip off the hydro end? I found a set screw there, but seems to be just for fan maybe? Don't see others. Real rusty, just stuck then? My joints are real shot and not sure what will need to be done. Does not look like rebuildable joints. Hoping not to have to buy another whole shaft. I bet unobtainable or very pricey? Have any of you folks made one up and what parts did you use? This shaft is pretty big size unit, will just a 3/4 or 1" size work as well? This stock one just a hollow tube? Will I need to make the new joints, if found, be welded to that stock tube then? Is the splines on the hydro going to be some odd sized thing, not easy to find? Another frustration in trying to get this tractor going again. Problems keep coming at me as I go!
Drive shaft out of tractor?
Posted May 28, 2016 - 11:22 PM
Posted May 29, 2016 - 12:56 AM
You may want to check with the site sponsors to see if they may have a drive shaft available. If not, a new one can be built relatively inexpensively with mostly off the shelf u-joints and yokes. If you go this route, the rear yoke will have to be machined to accommodate the cooling fan. The front yoke will need located and cross drilled for the safety bolt. Yoke sizes are common.
Check out this thread for more info:
- blackjackjakexxix and boyscout862 have said thanks
Posted May 29, 2016 - 09:08 AM
I agree with ClassicBolens. Build a new unit complete and have it done right. If you ever need repairs again and off the shelf cross kit will do the job. Any farm equipment repair or welding shop should be able to fix you right up.
Posted May 29, 2016 - 09:59 AM
I'm worried on the spline type and size at hydro end, and then the long slip joint for on the engine adapter. I think I should leave the slip feature on there to allow it to be moved and removed w/out pulling half tractor apart and engine out. It could be serviced w/out doing that if needed in future? Guess that is the idea of removal with this method then. Lots of times square shafts are shown in the stores. Think they would do?
- chieffan said thank you
Posted May 29, 2016 - 10:14 AM
You definitely would want the splines on the new joint to match the splines on the hydro. Another option is to use the rectangular PTO shaft material. It looks almost square but one side is wider than the other. Solid piece to the engine and the tube end to the hydro. The slip joint would be where the two pieces go together.
There is a lot of farm equipment that run this kind of PTO shaft and very seldom is their a problem with the shaft unless it gets bent. They are about 1" X 1 1/8" on the sides.
Edited by chieffan, May 29, 2016 - 10:14 AM.
Posted May 29, 2016 - 10:36 AM
- olcowhand and blackjackjakexxix have said thanks
Posted May 29, 2016 - 01:50 PM
OK, round shaft, that is good. Still not moving on my end yet. Didn't see another set screw in there, one I took out was real long. Probly pushes on the key then? Anyway, soaking now with a ball joint remover tool under pressure against that casting in front of pump. So afraid I'm gonna break that with good hit, so just doing Wimpy hits. Maybe shouldn't use that tool at all??
I was thinking those square shafts too, see them all the time in farm stores. Not sure how would need to match up the round adapter on engine end yet. That is supposed to move and allow removal in the tractor. I removed whole engine to get it out and off. Even if shaft comes out, the slip joint is way rusty and probly NO slip left and have another issue to work on. Did I mention I HATE Bolen's tractors? And this is only my first one ever, heh!
Posted May 29, 2016 - 03:23 PM
Keep in mind that the square shafts and other PTO driveshaft parts you find in the farm stores are usually set up to run 540 rpm or 1000 rpm equipment. Your engine to hydro shaft will be running at 3600 rpm.
Posted May 30, 2016 - 09:38 PM
Edited by glgrumpy, May 30, 2016 - 09:41 PM.
Posted May 30, 2016 - 11:21 PM
Glad to see you got the drive shaft off without any damage to the hydro. Unfortunately your drive shaft is the old non-serviceable type u-joints. No repair kits for them. There is a nice New Old Stock drive shaft on eBay that will fit your tractor. It is the newer heavy duty 2 piece drive shaft with larger serviceable u-joints with grease fittings. http://www.ebay.com/...-MAAOSwpDdVSQ6S
This is the type that was used on the later QT17 and 1900 tractors. The price isn't too bad for NOS. This would be a great option, but I don't know if you want to sink that much into it yet with the tractor not running yet.
The other option is to build a new one from scratch. It does take some leg work to get all the correct components together. Like I mentioned before, there is some machining work that would need done to accommodate the hydro cooling fan. You may be able to re-use your 1.5" round tubing if you decide to go that way. It needs to be built square and true and balanced. If you don't have the means, you may want to check with http://www.fortwayneclutch.com/
The other option might be to find a used drive shaft. However, if you find a used one with the same non-serviceable type u-joints I wouldn't bother with it, unless you can get it for dirt cheap. It will end up the same way as yours sooner or later. Just not a great option for the long run.
Posted May 31, 2016 - 02:11 PM
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Posted June 02, 2016 - 06:51 PM
Well, it's up to Ft.Wayne clutch shop. Fella can machine for fan. U-joints a bit bigger, hope no clearance problems, seems like lots of room there to me. Gonna be around $275, Ka-Ching! Whatever, just fix the thing I said. What a money pit this Bolen's is being. Did I mention I HATE Bolen's? That is ON again, heh!
- ClassicBolens said thank you