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Single Bottom Plow Adjusments


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#1 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2016 - 08:14 AM

OK, I have a old 14" sears plow that I made into 3-pt for my 20hp Kubota, I angled the plow lightly down so it would sink to the right depth and level out under ground, I took off with it and the plow stayed at the angle and just drug the tip on top and it didn't sink in. I then angled it a little steeper and the plow sunk right in but it kept pulling down hard. I tried to adjust the plow back a little and I had the same problem of it not wanting to go in. I messed around with it for a while and I ended up lightly bending my 3-pt mounts so now I need to fix it. I even put a gauge wheel on so it can't go to deep but it still pulls hard not nice and smooth like it should.

 

I am needing to break 5 acres of ground with it here in a couple months so I am needing to get this figured out. I also have a 18" single bottom plow that I have had similar problems with.

Thanks for any help and info

 

(the pictures are of the 18" I can't find pictures 14" plow)

Attached Thumbnails

  • Disk 010.jpg
  • Disk 011.jpg
  • Disk 012.jpg

Edited by BTS, May 24, 2016 - 08:15 AM.

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#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2016 - 08:45 AM

Read through this article that olcowhand wrote. Your plow looks to be sitting level with the tractor and not tilted so it is flat when in the furrow and the tractor is angled. The depth should be half the width of the plow. So for your 14" plow, set the left tires of the tractor on something 7" tall.


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#3 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2016 - 09:40 AM

Yup, either drop the right arm 3+"or make a new bracket/mount for that side that is 3.5 inches lower or so. You have too much "cutting edge" profile like it is forcing it to dig in hard.
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#4 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2016 - 10:17 AM

Very hard ground, top link needs to be adjusted out to tip the plow more level once your in the ground. Once in to the ground, lift the plow 1 or 2" and set back down, then adjust the top link out , as I said earlier. Then as was said, adjust the plow to be level once your into the furrow on your second trip around.
Hope this helps some.

Noel.
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#5 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2016 - 10:21 AM

Thanks Kenny, Skyrydr2 and propane1. That would explain my problem, my tilt linkages on the 3-pt are goofed up, one is welded solid and the other has the threads all buggered up so it only moves maybe a inch (it was like that when I bought the tractor 3 or so years ago). I think it might be easier to rebuild my plow so it sets at a angle because I don't have the money to buy new adjusters (not even sure where to get them).

Thanks again for the help and info


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#6 Delmar ONLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2016 - 03:14 PM

 I think it might be easier to rebuild my plow so it sets at a angle because I don't have the money to buy new adjusters (not even sure where to get them).

 

take a few pics, and some measurements of what you have and go to tractor supply or even a good hardware store.


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#7 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2016 - 07:48 PM

Take a look at my thread here:

http://gardentractor...up-on-plow-day/

which shows the difference between a new plow point and one that is worn out.  I had similar problems of getting the plow to dig in with the old point, the new one has made a great difference.


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#8 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2016 - 09:13 PM

Thanks for everyone's help and info. I have check my local farm store and all of their adjustment linkages are all about a foot to long. These on my Kubota are much shorter then whats on a Ford 8N or ect and that's all the local farm store carries. They did have CAT 0 top links that looked about right, but I don't trust them to hold the weight.

 

My plows don't look very worn at all, I think my problem is all in adjustment, but thanks for the tips and pictures.

 

I went out to look at the adjustments on my 3-pt and I found out that the adjuster that isn't welded has plenty of travel. I just need to switch it to the left side so I can adjust it right.

 

I still need to get my plow mount bent back and braced up and I will take it out for a spin and I will let everyone know how it works.

Thanks

Attached Thumbnails

  • Kubota 3-pt Adjustments Quick Hitch 001.jpg
  • Kubota 3-pt Adjustments Quick Hitch 003.jpg
  • Kubota 3-pt Adjustments Quick Hitch 004.jpg

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#9 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2016 - 10:54 PM

One important thing here.  It is hard to tell from the pics but do you have a hole for the third arm mount on the tractor that is lower than the one you are in now?  This is very important in the geometry that makes a plow pull well that the third arm be very lower in relation to the lift arm pivots.  The lower you can hook the third arm the more angle you have to cause the plow to enter the ground and as the plow goes down it will level out and follow the depth set by the third arm.

You can cheat here a bit if you can not lower the pin point on the tractor by raising the third arm mount on the implement and get the same results.

Here is some great reading to get a handle on how this all comes together.

Attached File  plowingtheory.pdf   1.13MB   91 downloads

 

 I always prefer to use a depth gage wheel that allows me to set the plow to dig a very small amount and the gage wheel to carry the plow at the desired depth.  This will keep my plow in the ground better when you have changing ground conditions i.e. Hard - Soft -- Sand - Clay yet not allow the plow to dig deeper than I want in the lighter ground.

 

I understand your issues with the cost of correcting all the adjuster and third arm issues but all this has to work in order to adjust this plow to enter the ground and then level to follow a desired depth. 

 

 


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#10 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted May 25, 2016 - 12:10 PM

Ducky - Great reading there, thanks for sharing it.


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#11 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2016 - 07:01 AM

One important thing here.  It is hard to tell from the pics but do you have a hole for the third arm mount on the tractor that is lower than the one you are in now?  This is very important in the geometry that makes a plow pull well that the third arm be very lower in relation to the lift arm pivots.  The lower you can hook the third arm the more angle you have to cause the plow to enter the ground and as the plow goes down it will level out and follow the depth set by the third arm.

You can cheat here a bit if you can not lower the pin point on the tractor by raising the third arm mount on the implement and get the same results.

Here is some great reading to get a handle on how this all comes together.

attachicon.gifplowingtheory.pdf

 

 I always prefer to use a depth gage wheel that allows me to set the plow to dig a very small amount and the gage wheel to carry the plow at the desired depth.  This will keep my plow in the ground better when you have changing ground conditions i.e. Hard - Soft -- Sand - Clay yet not allow the plow to dig deeper than I want in the lighter ground.

 

I understand your issues with the cost of correcting all the adjuster and third arm issues but all this has to work in order to adjust this plow to enter the ground and then level to follow a desired depth. 

 

That is a great article, I'm sure that will get me onto the right track.

Thanks






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