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Repainting my tractor advice.


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#1 dualresponse1731 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2016 - 06:15 PM

About time to repaint my tractor- AGAIN!

I have done it both ways, with proper spray guns, and with rattle cans.

 

The last time I did it, I think I went crazy with rattle cans on blue parts and spray guns on white parts. The cans  ended up "spitting" paint blobs on the final coat. No matter what I did, I could not keep the rattle can nozzles from puddling paint and throwing it.  I also had some reaction between the primer layer and the final layer, so it dried into an unbecoming crackled finish.

 

I also did not paint the side panels because at the time I could not locate LGT side decals- I finally found some so side panels are now a priority.

 

The white rear seat/fender area was sandblasted about 5 years ago. It just needs light touch up. Perhaps I should just drop the side panels off at the machine shop for professional blasting.. hmmmm....

 

 

...So tonight I ask several important pressing questions in the garden tractor world.

 

1st. Can I get Ford LGT blue/white only at the dealership? or can any paint store enter a computer code and match it?

2nd. If I go with my spray guns ( I have a HVLP, and several traditional compressor fed guns)- what kind of paint do you recommend (accelerators/hardeners/and such) What is the best compromise between quality and value?

3rd. What kind of primer? so I don't get the reaction I had last time. (they were both acrylic)- look at the crackled blue pic...

4rth. I need to blast some rust off the side panels, What media is best? regular sandblasting sand? I can't get to my dad's sandblaster gun- I'm thinking of picking up a cheap HF pressurized blaster. Thoughts?

 

(editors note- I am in the getting ideas phase.  The repaint might be later in the summer- please do not get your hopes up quite yet!)

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Edited by dualresponse1731, May 23, 2016 - 06:17 PM.

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#2 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2016 - 06:28 PM

I use Valspar Tractor Paint  which I get from a tractor supply store. What ever paint you use, use the same brand of primer. Valspar also sells a compatible hardener.


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#3 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2016 - 06:48 PM

I've got a big ALC sand blaster for big items. It works great. I've got a small $15 suction feed sand blaster for small areas. It is much slower but does a pretty good job. If you sand blast, use a self etching primer so that it sticks better. Some primers need more time to cure before painting over. This can be affected by the air temperature and humidity. I had a paint job similar to yours many years ago, it was because the temp was too low. Good Luck, Rick
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#4 HANKG OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2016 - 07:43 PM

Urethane auto paint finish is hard to beat but not cheap you need a gun that can handle it and a good compressor to keep up. there is also single stage paint that does not need to be cleared they are both purchased with the primer and activator recommended by the manufacturer for each type of paint . Then there is  the rattle can very nice results can be attained with proper ( preparation ) and good paint , Rust-Oleum makes a professional grade spray bomb and primer that has more pressure to allow you to spray at any angle.Also use a primer sealer it makes a big difference in the finish of your top coat The trick to the bomb is three or more light coats the first two coats you should still be able to see the primer follow the directions on the can and take your time for the last coat you can lay down a medium / heavy coat, then you can clear it according to the directions on the can. This tractor was sprayed with dupli color spray bomb.489.JPG

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Edited by HANKG, May 23, 2016 - 07:51 PM.

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#5 dualresponse1731 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2016 - 07:53 PM

^beautiful tractor! Those AG tires on the front are great! Thanks everyone  for the advice. I have painted a number of cars and musical instruments (in clear nitrocellulose laquer) and such, and should really probably stick with the guns, but I like the idea of being patient with the first several coats not trying to obtain full color saturation. This could have been my downfall last time with the cans.  Patience patience patience!!!!! :thumbs:

The Ford dealership factory cans drove me crazy because even level they were collecting paint on the nozzles and  splattering. Perhaps they were 30 years old and had been sitting for too long. The dust on the cans should have been a clue! :smilewink:  It drove me crazy. Also- at $13 dollars a can- I would like to explore more options- that why I ask about auto paint stores/ etc. I never even knew about tractor supply paint!

 

I should add- my tractor - It will go into battle in the woods and brush!!!!! It  has never been pampered- why start now! Maybe I should buck up for durability! Ha! Thanks.


Edited by dualresponse1731, May 23, 2016 - 08:45 PM.

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#6 dualresponse1731 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2016 - 08:06 PM

Out of curiosity- how did you paint the "panzer" white highlight detail?

 

I also googled "rustoleum" and "ford lgt" and came up with this:

 

http://www.homedepot...24830/202436610

 

is this the rustoleum you are talking about? and is this the lgt blue? sure looks like it. 

 

I am still mentally thinking between something like a urethane and the cheap reproduceability of a rattle can. At 23 bucks for six cans- (as opposed to 13 bucks for one 30 year old dealership factory can-) I don't know. 

 

then... can you hit it with this afterwards?

 

https://www.google.c...D24-_-100670438

 

I don't mind a little wet sanding... which is crazy since I am going to drive this into thicket and lube it with red mud and grass clippings! 

 

p.s- I also googled tractor supply valspar but only got a majic? brand. Is that any good?


Edited by dualresponse1731, May 23, 2016 - 08:50 PM.

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#7 John Arsenault OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2016 - 09:29 PM

I agree with the Urethane automotive paint , but I have also had good results with gallons of tractor implement paint mentioned above and I believe  that is an enamel. My last choice would be rattle can , I have use that to but I never seem to get the thickness I need and the spray pattern is just horrid for larger surfaces also its an aerosol and that seems to lose its pressure near the end causing you to stop early or risk spitting paint.

 

 Like everyone said match your primer and your paint  thats very important. and only use the correct thinner for the paint you are using. I found that out the hard way once. Prep as much as we hate this part take your time and do it right a good paint job will show whats underneath. Before priming I like to clean my surface with denatured alcohol and a rag let it dry then run a tack cloth over it to pick up rag furs. That last thing I mentioned helped me a lot with my paint application. I just wish I could stop the bugs from getting high on the fumes when I paint  because any bug in your shop will be in your paint. In that event leave it there rub it out when it dries I have put my fingers into a good paint job doing that. 

 

Every paint job should get better and better if you listed to these guys a lot a great advice. 

 

 

My next paint job on my tractors I am using Nason single stage urethane the best painting I have ever done was with single stage urethane. It seems to go on thicker then  many other types of paint and does not run as easy ,5-10 min between coats is just enough time to get right back to business so it don't take all day. 

 

 

http://products.axal.../IBQuality.html


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#8 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2016 - 10:35 PM

I have painted 2 garden tractors, a sears (do-it best spray cans) and a Simplicity 7018 (rustoleum qt cans and spray gun).

The sears turned out better then the simplicity, but I spent a lot of time on it, I took every little part off of it and even pulled the rear end. But I wanted to do a good job since it was a gift.

The simplicity was painted only because the rust was about to take it over so I only pulled the hood, fenders and steering wheel then went at it.

Make sure you put your parts on a sturdy bench/table, I had the hood of the simplicity completely painted setting on a couple saw horses, with one light touch the hood jumped off (still wet by the way) into the sand drive way. I had to wash the whole hood down and re prime then paint :wallbanging:

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Edited by BTS, May 23, 2016 - 10:43 PM.

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#9 jpswift1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2016 - 10:44 PM

 
This guy is REALLY good!  This is the route I went with my MF/Snapper 1855.  Amazing results, cheap and easy.

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#10 HANKG OFFLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2016 - 12:25 AM

Out of curiosity- how did you paint the "panzer" white highlight detail?

 

I also googled "rustoleum" and "ford lgt" and came up with this:

 

http://www.homedepot...24830/202436610

 

is this the rustoleum you are talking about? and is this the lgt blue? sure looks like it. 

 

I am still mentally thinking between something like a urethane and the cheap reproduceability of a rattle can. At 23 bucks for six cans- (as opposed to 13 bucks for one 30 year old dealership factory can-) I don't know. 

 

then... can you hit it with this afterwards?

 

https://www.google.c...D24-_-100670438

 

I don't mind a little wet sanding... which is crazy since I am going to drive this into thicket and lube it with red mud and grass clippings! 

 

p.s- I also googled tractor supply valspar but only got a majic? brand. Is that any good?

Majic is junk and fades quickly Valspar is much better. The lettering was done with a cheap1" by 3" mini foam roller from Lowes that I cut to the width of the letters, the paint was applied to the roller then rolled on clean cardboard to off excess paint then carefully applied with some masking between some of the letters.


Edited by HANKG, May 24, 2016 - 12:40 AM.

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