Working on the QT16 story
Posted June 03, 2016 - 11:47 PM
Posted June 04, 2016 - 11:13 PM
Earlier I said didn't understand the safety switch on the brake on tractor. NOW, looking closer at the parts drawings (hard to see) and reading the list shows a spring between it and the brake rod leading to back of tractor, NOW I see the connection, that light spring! So, now going to put that back in and find a spring, hopefully that will work. Be guessing the pull strength and length and all, might be frustrating before done, ha!
Ace had good looking light spring, bought, fit right on, and seems to work fine! SO, now after a bit, will put the wires back on the switch and should be good to go with that safe part.
Edited by glgrumpy, June 05, 2016 - 07:10 PM.
- MH81 said thank you
Posted June 05, 2016 - 06:28 AM
Hope the spark and carb issues are simple to solve
Posted June 06, 2016 - 12:48 AM
Whatever you do ....... DON"T screw the drive shaft tight to the pump shaft. There is only a little tiny snap ring, on the input gerator shaft, inside the pump that will break and mess the pump up with little tiny shards really bad. The shaft needs to have 1/8"free play room, from the end of the driveshaft to the face of the pump casting. The drive shaft should be bolted tight to the stub off the back of the engine, but NOT tight on the input pump shaft.
Posted June 06, 2016 - 01:13 AM
The brake safety switch > it bolts to the frame and is a push button type switch. When you depress the brake, the arm of the pedal slides past the push button safety switch, and closes the circuit for current to flow through it. It's really kinda weird. I disconnected and bypassed mine a long time ago.
The little spring inside the frame > it returns the brake set lever back to the released position, after you stomped your foot on the brake pedal again to release the brake.
Posted June 06, 2016 - 01:28 AM
You are missing two parts that held the battery in place. One is a 1" angle iron with two slots in it. The other part is a super long U shaped threaded rod thing. It mounts under the battery pad in front and finds it way to the back top of the battery. It's ready hard to explain with out a picture of it. It's simple but when it's in place, it does work through.
I made changes to the battery tray and I have a group 35 in mine now. I'll have to get back to you about the battery size. It originally was the size that fit a 1966 ford (I think it was the old old old obsolete group 22F), but I can't recall more about it right now. I'd have to look it up.
Posted June 06, 2016 - 05:33 PM
I'm done with battery, it is staying way I have. I do NOT see any place for the u-bolt to pull against leaned in like that. I see that set-up in the manual now. U-bolt passes by all the metal on sides, battery sticks out past the pad. It would pull on the Regulator is all under the pad. SO, it is staying right like it is. AND, don't see enough of clearance for the batt cables to be on posts or posts are too close to edge and would short out with metal across that area.
Went and got a new tap/shut-off for the tank. Tank is plastic and is threaded for 1/8" pipe! What's up with that. I was gonna leave the old valve in, but it twisted off the handle shaft when I turned and later found it all full of gunk there. New fittings don't really tighten up like they should, plastic wants to give. I bought valve with screen and all, but handle is on bottom and hits the steer gear. No others found locally. SO, no valve just a 90* fitting on it for present, used sealer to hopefully hold. Bolted up manifold and carb. hooked up the line. Cranked a bit, some gas in carb to prime. Will run off that gas or start fluid a bit. NO gas is pumping to it. Line off pump from tank and gas runs out. Off the carb or outlet, nothing. Pump has two nipples, one on top says OUT, but is closed off, not drilled. Other says IN, so thought maybe I had reversed. SO, took pump, turned over, hooked on hoses. Cranking now has gas spraying all out of gasket area on the pump. SO, not sealing I say, and maybe I have assembled wrong. Before that was getting oil or something wanting to leak from around pump where the vac tube is hooked to pump. Pumping oil out of engine?? Think will be going and getting one of those B & D vac pumps and put it on now.
The engine did seem to run some, governor worked when it started. I have issue with starter wanting to pull real hard and slow when first trying. After a few cranks it seems to run much faster and easier, till next time I try, say next day, then same slow crawl at first. Noisy too. Don't see way to lube it, so is it gonna be shot now too?
I quit on it for the day, will have to get diff pump and see what I can hook up to make it pull gas up to carb later.
Posted June 07, 2016 - 12:04 AM
I sent an Email to glperry4 with photos to hopefully to help you out.
Posted June 07, 2016 - 12:07 AM
try pulling out the spark plugs and then crank the engine for a couple of seconds to get the old engine oiled up inside. It might help loosen things up for the starter.
Posted June 30, 2016 - 05:33 PM
Posted July 01, 2016 - 01:16 AM
Some advice about the driveshaft. You'll notice the U joints are much bigger on the new one. I too had to have a shaft made at the machine shop. With the bigger sized U joints, I have a slight amount of vibration as the rear joint is now throwing around a larger joint, and there isn't much of a pump shaft for the joint to hang on to. You might experience this as well.
Ok .... NEVER TIGHTEN THE REAR OF THE SHAFT TO THE PUMP ..... there is a little tiny snap ring inside the pump that has to absorb all of the in and out thrust. There is one exception to this rule, but that is for a different driveshaft design. Anyway, the snap ring in the pump can't take the punishment and it will break, tearing the guts of the pump all to hell and back.
Here's what you do ..... there are two ways to do this >
Bolt the stub on the engine flywheel.
Slide the rear joint onto the pump shaft. DON"T SCREW IT ON TIGHT ...... just let the rear of the shaft ride free (grease it before installing it) on the pump shaft. Allow about 1/8 inch between the end of the rear joint and the face of the pump. MAKE SURE the half round key didn't fall out.
The trick now is to jiggle the front U joint onto the engine stub shaft. Depending on how much play you have, you might have to unbolt the engine, install the front shaft joint loose, and then bolt the engine down where the engine belongs in the cradle. It's a Pain In the Butt .... Trust me I know !!!! MAKE SURE the half round key didn't fall out.
There is another way to do this, but I don't know how much play your new shaft has built into it. You can put the rear on first, and loosen the front joint and stub enough to clear the pump to engine distance ..... then bolt the stub onto the engine and adjust everything to get that 1/8 inch rear joint clearance.
If everything is OK >
With the rear joint in the proper place, and the front joint riding free on the engine stub, tighten the screw that holds the front joint on the stub. Do NOT grease the front joint or engine stub. Use red lock tight on the set screw when you are positively sure everything is in the correct position.
When everything is correct ....... The front joint will be tight on the engine stub, and the rear joint (not the fan but the joint) will have 1/8 inch clearance to the face of the pump and will ride free. Everything relies on the engine being bolted tight in it's proper place and the pump (with the rear end of course) being bolted tight in it's proper place. MAKE SURE the half round keys didn't fall out, or you have to start all over again ( yea I admit it happened to me).
Like I said, you might notice a bit of vibration because the rear joint is now much bigger than the original and there isn't much for it to hang on to.
Posted July 01, 2016 - 01:43 AM
Through the years, I made a few improvements to my tractor. I removed the side skirts to help keep the engine cool. I also installed a power steering system from a different (newer) tractor. I fabricated a hydro fluid cooler coil, and removed the little plastic fan. I removed the fan's set screw, drilled and thread tapped the hole to the correct size I needed, and then screwed in a grease zerk. So every time I change out the mower deck, I shoot grease into the rear joint / pump shaft coupling to keep the joint riding free on the pump shaft.
Posted July 01, 2016 - 09:58 PM
Well, figured the front adapter to flywheel would need to go on first. Four bolts for that. Then was going to slide the front end of shaft onto that and hopefully lift up to rear and slide back onto that. The front shaft has quite long area to slide on, not sure how far it will go in joint though. There is a bolt or pin at that end and several holes in the adapter to allow diff positions to bolt it at. So, I"m thinking one has to get back on last and hope to find the pin hole on front that matches to that position or closest to put in the bolt and it is then done and on????? I was thinking lubing that front adapter would just make the forward/rearward move easier. Don't think there is a set screw in front??? I'll have to look again.
Posted July 03, 2016 - 11:17 AM
- Paulgo said thank you
Posted July 03, 2016 - 12:09 PM
Gotta give you credit for saving that one. I would have probably seen it as a parts tractor.