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Cub Hydraulic Pump

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#1 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2016 - 06:31 AM

I bought this pump from member Billy M. He had a thread on it here. I have done a little research and found not a lot on it. I know it is good for 1100 to 1500 PSI. Read somewhere (can't find it again) it is CW rotation and Max RPM was 2000. It is a gear pump.

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I opened it up and it looks pretty good inside.

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I'll have to have a plate made to hook lines up to it.

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Here's some pics I found elsewhere. As you can see, it was gear driven also. So I'll have to get creative with how it is driven. Rules out a pulley on the front.

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I'll have to make a reservoir and get a filter. I have a set of valves off a MF to use with it. Any good ideas will help!

As far as running it, I am thinking a belt to a shaft with 2 bearings to take out the side pull. Off the end of that shaft, I am contemplating one of these couplers. The shaft on the pump is 1/2" keyed. The pulley shaft would most likely be 3/4".

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#2 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2016 - 08:05 AM

You ask for ideas I'm glad you didn't say good ones lol ,  anyway is there enough material to drill the holes out a little and use a pipe tap ?  Much easier getting fittings


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#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2016 - 08:45 AM

You ask for ideas I'm glad you didn't say good ones lol ,  anyway is there enough material to drill the holes out a little and use a pipe tap ?  Much easier getting fittings

I'd rather have a plate made with threads in it. That shouldn't be too hard to do. I don't have any pipe taps to do it.


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#4 Billy M ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2016 - 08:48 AM

Nice to see the pump getting used!

 

As far as connecting lines.  How about taking a piece of square or thick flat bar stock (to make a flange), drill 4 corresponding holes in it to match the pump.  Use an NPT pipe tap to make pipe threads in the 2 middle holes of the flange to install adapter fittings for the lines as Alc said.  That way, you are not drilling/tapping on the body of the pump.  There are recesses on the pump for O-rings to seal the flange to the pump.  Make sure the adapter fittings don't extend past the mounting surface of the flange.  If they do, remove and machine/file the ends of the fittings down to clear.

 

As far as driving the pump, you can use a cogged belt/pulley if you are worried about over tension or slipping.  They are more expensive, but do a great job.


Edited by Billy M, May 19, 2016 - 08:49 AM.

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#5 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2016 - 09:16 AM

Nice to see the pump getting used!

 

As far as connecting lines.  How about taking a piece of square or thick flat bar stock (to make a flange), drill 4 corresponding holes in it to match the pump.  Use an NPT pipe tap to make pipe threads in the 2 middle holes of the flange to install adapter fittings for the lines as Alc said.  That way, you are not drilling/tapping on the body of the pump.  There are recesses on the pump for O-rings to seal the flange to the pump.  Make sure the adapter fittings don't extend past the mounting surface of the flange.  If they do, remove and machine/file the ends of the fittings down to clear.

 

As far as driving the pump, you can use a cogged belt/pulley if you are worried about over tension or slipping.  They are more expensive, but do a great job.

That's what I was thinking to attach hoses to it. I'm worried about the side load a belt would have on it. Don't think it is designed for any.



#6 Billy M ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2016 - 09:49 AM

That's what I was thinking to attach hoses to it. I'm worried about the side load a belt would have on it. Don't think it is designed for any.

If you want to get real creative, you could make a 90° bracket with a pulley & shaft on it (with 2 bearings).  Mount the pump behind the shaft with a Lovejoy coupling.  That way, the lateral belt stress is on the pulley/shaft.


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#7 Eric ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2016 - 10:28 AM

Just a thought but I think I have seen pumps similar to that run directly off of a small electric motor, this would eliminate the side load issue and I would think whatever you would put the unit on could handle the load of a small motor.
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#8 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2016 - 11:46 AM

If you want to get real creative, you could make a 90° bracket with a pulley & shaft on it (with 2 bearings).  Mount the pump behind the shaft with a Lovejoy coupling.  That way, the lateral belt stress is on the pulley/shaft.

That's what I'm thinking.



#9 Billy M ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2016 - 11:47 AM

Just a thought but I think I have seen pumps similar to that run directly off of a small electric motor, this would eliminate the side load issue and I would think whatever you would put the unit on could handle the load of a small motor.

That would work as well...depending on the duty use.  My Elec-Trak loader is electric over hydraulic, but I have a big battery bank to run the pump on it.  If you were to run an electric motor/pump much at all, it's going to drain a GT battery pretty quick.  Intermittent use should be fine.  I would definitely consider a battery upgrade if going the electric route.  I was assuming Kenny was wanting to run it off to the side of the engine like the old Cub Cadets were done.


Edited by Billy M, May 19, 2016 - 11:47 AM.

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#10 classic ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2016 - 12:27 PM

This is what happens to a side loaded pump shaft over time. This is a 7/16" shaft out of a Cessna pump that was on a Cub Cadet 147 with a Johnson Loader. This pump was driven with a belt and located at the side of the engine as mentioned above. The pump housing has a bronze sleeve bushing pressed in where the shaft rides. I would think that a ball bearing would be more suitable for a side loaded shaft in a pump like this. The pump that this shaft came from still worked, but there is quite a bit of play in the shaft. The shaft seal was also leaking badly. I've been looking for a new Cessna pump to replace this one for a while and I recently found an NOS one for 150.00. The only difference is that the ports are at the back of the pump and not on the sides. I think I'm going to make a mount with a jack shaft that runs off of a belt and couple the pump to the shaft with a Lovejoy coupling. The rotation of the pump can be easily changed, so it makes for a lot of possible mounting options. There is no sense in mounting the pump in the original location, since the pump shaft will just wear out again.

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#11 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2016 - 01:26 PM

Don't want any side load! This has a bushing as well. The jack shaft is the way to go.


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#12 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2016 - 05:31 AM

Here is the valve I plan to use with the pump.

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I may go ahead and mount this on Alice ahead of the pump.

 


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#13 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2016 - 05:37 AM

I was looking at the pump shaft , would that have had a gear on it ? Wouldn't a sprocket and chain drive have the same side load as a gear ?


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#14 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2016 - 05:44 AM

I was looking at the pump shaft , would that have had a gear on it ? Wouldn't a sprocket and chain drive have the same side load as a gear ?

I would think the side pull of the chain would be similar to a pulley/belt. The jack shaft with Lovejoy would be a straight on twist like the original gear.


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#15 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2016 - 12:31 PM

Been thinking on how to actuate the valve. Handles have to be offset as the valve mounts under the edge of the seat. Think this will work.

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The plate will need to be a little wider, but this is just a 'dry run'.






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